McCulloch Chain Saws

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Ron - do you simply tap the black plastic auto oil pumps, or do you have a stash of the metal body ones with the back two holes tapped?

Just curious...I am thinking about trying to come up with some sort of jig to aid in drilling the back two holes as that still seems to be the best possible fix.

Mark
 
heimannm said:
Ron - do you simply tap the black plastic auto oil pumps, or do you have a stash of the metal body ones with the back two holes tapped?

Just curious...I am thinking about trying to come up with some sort of jig to aid in drilling the back two holes as that still seems to be the best possible fix.

Mark
Click to expand...

Mark, so far all of my oilers were tapped already - 8-32. My first one I made a template from an old plastic gasket (the wedge shaped ones). I elevated it with a bolt and some nuts in the front hole but my drill bit walked on the slope so one hole was off - no big deal as the gasket covered it. Last night I tried to eye ball it and really made a mess - nothing JB Weld can't seal. I won't do another one without using a center punch. I misplaced my punch or I would have used it the last two times. After you do one, I believe with a center punch and a drill press you can do the next one just by sight. If you screw up there is really no harm as you can patch the holes and go back to the OEM method. Ron
 
PM800 .. Day 2

Today is Cleaning Day. Lots of dunking/brushing/wiping to all the major parts. Yah, I know the clutch cover's incorrect. A donated, used piston from a generous AS member should arrive this week. I'm thinking I'll be needing to order some tiny bits, a spike and carb rebuild kit. I should have everything else.

 
Warped5 said:
Today is Cleaning Day. Lots of dunking/brushing/wiping to all the major parts. Yah, I know the clutch cover's incorrect. A donated, used piston from a generous AS member should arrive this week. I'm thinking I'll be needing to order some tiny bits, a spike and carb rebuild kit. I should have everything else.

Click to expand...

Do you have the stack for the muffler?
 
Ted - I am not positive on this, but I think you will need the correct clutch cover with the "bump" in the guard to clear the muffler/stack screen on that one. Bill Robinson at Fayetteville Repair has them, but they are not cheap.

There are spikes all over e-bay right now and some are even reasonably prices, $22 for a set of 2 if my old memory serves.

Mark
 
heimannm said:
Ted - I am not positive on this, but I think you will need the correct clutch cover with the "bump" in the guard to clear the muffler/stack screen on that one. Bill Robinson at Fayetteville Repair has them, but they are not cheap.

There are spikes all over e-bay right now and some are even reasonably prices, $22 for a set of 2 if my old memory serves.

Mark
Click to expand...

Hi Mark!

I will check clearances when I get the whole deal assembled. Yah, I know they aren't cheap at Bill's ....

Just grabbed two complete spike kits shipped for less than $18.50.
 
Ted, assuming your 1010 cover is the same size as a 700, the cover should fit unless you are running a DSP valve; I run 700 covers on some of my regular mufflered 800s. I don't know but I think the added clearance may have been to keep cover temperatures within some FS regulation. I have my spark screen doing a 24 hour soak in Berryman's.

Mark, oiler jig. I made a little jig (or maybe I should say "rig") today to align the holes properly. Hopefully tomorrow after the JB hardens I can test it. If it works I'll post a picture and you can fabricate a better one.

Ron
 
rwoods said:
Ted, assuming your 1010 cover is the same size as a 700, the cover should fit unless you are running a DSP valve; I run 700 covers on some of my regular mufflered 800s. I don't know but I think the added clearance may have been to keep cover temperatures within some FS regulation. I have my spark screen doing a 24 hour soak in Berryman's.

Ron
Click to expand...

Hi Ron - No DSP valve worries, I've even given up looking for one. After I torch the screens, I usually put them in a small cup with 'old school' oven cleaner.
 
Here is an example why people say check the muffler before trying to start a saw.....

eva5u4ys.jpg
 
Mac 1-60

I got this 1-60 several months back and just got it out to tinker with it. Has a Tillotson HL on it and my question is how in the heck do you get to the fuel line at the tank? The carb end is easy as usual but I can't get to the other end or even see it. Do you have to take the tank off to do this or what? Appears to be a nice saw with lots of compression. Doesn't have original carb on it but oh well. The gearcase is nice and clean inside and rolls smooth. I think this will make a nice saw. Had the 32" Roller Mac Solid Welded Tip bar on it with a nice loop of 1/2" chain hardly used. I just need to get this fuel line issue solved and I can go cutting... This is my first gear drive saw so I am curious to see how she cuts in some Oak. I only started collecting recently so don't have too many saws yet or a lot of knowledge about these but it will grow in time... I haven't been in here in awhile as I tore my rotatr cuff working on a lawn mower and now 4 months after surgey I can get back to tinkering with some of these saws...

Nick

View attachment 299540 View attachment 299541

View attachment 299544 View attachment 299545
 
Last edited:
That saw looks NEW!!!
No chain rash on the front H-bar, and the little sheet metal chain guard is still intact.
Dont expect to win any races, with the gear-reduced chain speed and 1/2" chain, you will have lots of time to contemplate your next cut! Still, gear drives are great fun to play with.
Lotsa weight with the gear box, be careful with that shoulder........
 
Yep it's pretty clean and I got a good deal on it. I sprayed some mix in the carb throat and she fired up and ran a bit, sounded good. I'm not worried about speed as I am not one for those super fast chain speeds. I prefer the 6000 rpm range myself. I hear about these newer ones and the chain speeds attained and I have no desire for any of those. Cant stand plastic and I like a heavy saw it keeps the arms tone. So many complain about these saws being so heavy but I don't think 25-30 lbs is bad at all. Now I know some are more than that and 50lbs would be a bit much but these are easy to lug around. Anyway if I can figure out how to get to the fuel line Ill get this thing spitting some chips.


dieselsmoke said:
That saw looks NEW!!!
No chain rash on the front H-bar, and the little sheet metal chain guard is still intact.
Dont expect to win any races, with the gear-reduced chain speed and 1/2" chain, you will have lots of time to contemplate your next cut! Still, gear drives are great fun to play with.
Lotsa weight with the gear box, be careful with that shoulder........
Click to expand...
 
Nickolas said:
I got this 1-60 several months back and just got it out to tinker with it. Has a Tillotson HL on it and my question is how in the heck do you get to the fuel line at the tank? The carb end is easy as usual but I can't get to the other end or even see it. Do you have to take the tank off to do this or what? Appears to be a nice saw with lots of compression. Doesn't have original carb on it but oh well. The gearcase is nice and clean inside and rolls smooth. I think this will make a nice saw. Had the 32" Roller Mac Solid Welded Tip bar on it with a nice loop of 1/2" chain hardly used. I just need to get this fuel line issue solved and I can go cutting... This is my first gear drive saw so I am curious to see how she cuts in some Oak. I only started collecting recently so don't have too many saws yet or a lot of knowledge about these but it will grow in time... I haven't been in here in awhile as I tore my rotatr cuff working on a lawn mower and now 4 months after surgey I can get back to tinkering with some of these saws...

Nick

View attachment 299540 View attachment 299541

View attachment 299544 View attachment 299545
Click to expand...

Looks great !!

E.
 
It's been busy around here!

While we're waiting for a PM800 piston to arrive, why not work on another large frame Mac, right?

Got this Super 250 running yesterday, but lacked the motivation to take/post the pix. I bought it up in WI from the son of the original owner. At the time, he said he got it running but wanted to see how well it cut. As his story went, he took it to a local OPE shop and they fixed him up with a 20" bar (large Husky mount) and chain (.050 gauge) for the bar. Didn't bother to see that the spur was .404 .... :dizzy:

I'll run this bar on it, but will also have a newer 31" bar that I'm going to outfit with skip chain.

Yes Aaron, the graphics on the bar are printed that way. :jester:



 

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