McCulloch Chain Saws

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Some McCandy for you folks.

Like new 3-10E and PM 850 Super. I decided to fuel them up and see if they would run yesterday since they've both been taken to the woods in the past. I have mixed feelings about the PM850S, it actually started on the very first pull. A saw like that could ruin the McCulloch reputation.


I have several McCulloch saws that start on one or two pulls. I think the hard start issue myself is lack of maintenance and care. These saws are 30,40,50 years old and need attn. I pretty much rebuild every saw with at least gaskets and seals and have very few problems. I have a few that start with one pull every time and some three pulls, two choked and the third is running. The primer saws are the ones that start the best and manual choke next. I've always been one to do preventive maintenance and it makes a difference. I don't wait until i have a problem i prevent them before they happen. I rarely have starting issues with any McCulloch saw they are very reliable saws regardless of what people say about them.
 
i have the large seal as described here by jerrymorrow. the number on the package is 67906. it is left over from my cp-55 project.
it has made in singapore molded on the inside. rubber is nice and pliable. anyone need it pm me & it's yours.
 
i have the large seal as described here by jerrymorrow. the number on the package is 67906. it is left over from my cp-55 project.
it has made in singapore molded on the inside. rubber is nice and pliable. anyone need it pm me & it's yours.
dang. if i'd only waited another day. sadly I already bought one off the bay. nice offer anyways.
 
while cleaning up the muffler for my 10-10A last night I discovered it has a short life expectancy. has some corrosion (rust?) damage. anyone got one they'd part with. got stuff and $. there're some on the bay but thinking i'd give it a shot here first.
also, without looking REAL close it appears that the two holes comprising the exhaust port are different sizes. is that so or do I need to start chipping?
thanks, jerry
 
1-42a.jpg 1-42b.jpgKind of happy tonight. I was able to get my late FIL's 1-42 going tonight. Put a carb kit in and it seems to run pretty decent and oils good also. I just need to tune it a little bit. I know it is not a speed demon but I just wanted to get it running right. My FIL left me two complete 1-42's and I got the better looking of the two going ( the other one is really rough but it will be nice to have a parts if I need them). It will be more of a conversation piece than anything else but I will enjoy making a few chips with it every now and then.
 
anyone got a clutch cover for a 10-10A, model 600002U? As you can see, this one has been a victim of white death. I believe it was set down when the compression went south. other than this (I was able to fix the starter) I believe it will be good with seals and rings.
also, anyone got a template for the spikes?
IMG_0804.jpg IMG_0805.jpg
 
Anyone point me in the direction of a 30" or longer bar to fit a Pro Mac 800? This saw will need various small parts as well. Anybody with a parts saw get in touch. PM or reply here. Thanks
 
Power Mac 330.. Can anyone shed a little light on the oiling system for me? Can't get one here to oil whatsoever. Lever does nothing.
Thanks,
Jason
 
Finally got the updated spring clip for the Oiler on the SP 81. No more burning bar oil but the fuel line is leaking where it passes thru from the fuel tank to the carb bay.

Has anyone ever tried to add a barbed fitting into the fuel line passage using something like this? upload_2015-10-18_22-7-30.jpeg


or this?
155dtwo.jpg
 
Teflon tape is the easy solution.

I have done something similar to your proposed repair using plastic (nylon?) bits from McMaster Carr.

IMAG0125.jpg

It is hard to change the fuel line in the tank later on if need be unless you are willing to split the tank again.

Looking at that cork gasket in the tank reminds me that over on SH in the McCulloch thread someone found some 3/32" square profile o-ring material you can buy from McMaster Carr, add a dab of Three Bond or Honda Bond at the joint and you have a successful gasket replacement.

Mark
 
youTeflon tape is the easy solution.

I have done something similar to your proposed repair using plastic (nylon?) bits from McMaster Carr.

View attachment 454619

It is hard to change the fuel line in the tank later on if need be unless you are willing to split the tank again.

Looking at that cork gasket in the tank reminds me that over on SH in the McCulloch thread someone found some 3/32" square profile o-ring material you can buy from McMaster Carr, add a dab of Three Bond or Honda Bond at the joint and you have a successful gasket replacement.

Mark
Thanks Heimannm..... That's what I was thinking. Seems to be more of a permanent solution and doesn't limit one to purchasing the McCulloch specific line.
 
There have been a few of those piston/pin tool kit come up lately. They are handy when you are working on the small saws as it takes some special tools to press the pin out with the blind bearing in the piston. You can't use a puller like the bigger kart engines, the only way is to punch the center cover out of the bearing.

I did buy some of the small bearings (Torrington M551) a short while back, made a deal with a vendor for 10 pieces and I think they ended up sending me 30...

Mark
 

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