McCulloch Chain Saws

[Colton T]

Thanks for the info Mark very informative!

 

[BigBlue]

Rob, It being Christmas I am in the giving mood. If you will PM me your address I will give/send you a Christmas present of one LRB piston. When you get it you can take the ring off the piston and put it in the bore of the cylinder and check the ring end gap. If it is better than .006 I am unsure of what the upper limit is, maybe Mark can furnish this. But if the ring is in these parameters then the piston should be alright. Not the best way to do it but I have done it in the past and gotten by with it. Or measure the piston and bore and see if they are correct and also the you can put the piston on the crank, slide it into the cylinder and check the squish. If it will work for you then Merry Christmas.

Brian

That's extremely generous of you. I'd be happy just to have access to one for something less than the $99 going rate on eBay. I'll PM you to talk about more details.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[heimannm]

Luke - I have been able to pick up a few carburetors for less than $50 each, keep an eye on e-bay and watch the part numbers as there seem to be a lot of 38 and 38A models available.

I didn't notice the SDC20's or I would have had one or two added to my bat cave.

Mark

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Good afternoon Gentlemen, I am seeking some assistance in identifying an old Mac chainsaw. Was told it ran a couple years ago, has good compression (no numbers yet, need to clean it up first) but no spark. I am going to assume its just the points until I break further into it. I am more of a Stihl guy although I just finished my first Jonsered/Husqvarna build.

Yes, the chain is on backwards, I didn’t install it.

Pics:

 

[BigBlue]

That looks somewhat like a 1-72. The way the bar attaches isn't the same though. And the oil reservoir. But that might be a start for you to keep digging.

Rob

 

[fossil]

I have an Excel spread sheet by Luis Salas, (program manager at Walbro) and he also lists an SDC-61-1 as going on an SP 125
MC CULLOCH SDC-61-1 SDC-61 SDC-61 Super Pro 125C Chain Saw

 

[heimannm]

That is a gear drive saw in the 1-8X category. Turn it over and look for the number stamped on the bottom of the crank case. It is a little hard to read but this one is a 1-86. The 030 stamp added later indicates it was bored 0.030" oversize. These older saws had a cast iron or steel liner rather than chrome plated bores so it was possible to bore them oversize when the time came.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

Tim - my information came mostly from the McCulloch Carburetors Usage Guide which stopped with the CP models. The later revisions f the guide had tons of small saws and even the moped carburetors listed but ignored the bigger saws.

If you were willing to share a copy of that spread sheet I will endeavor to incorporate the information into the list I have already put together.

Mark

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Ok, here is what I found:

 

[heimannm]

840 it is, I missed the automatic oil pump when I first scanned your photos. Very low serial number.



I have a 48" bar on mine and have needed it a time or two.







Mark

 

[usmcbuckwild]

840 it is, I missed the automatic oil pump when I first scanned your photos. Very low serial number.

View attachment 619704

I have a 48" bar on mine and have needed it a time or two.

View attachment 619706

View attachment 619707

View attachment 619708

Mark

WOW! That’s quite a saw!!

Thank you for the info. Question now is what to do with it.

 

[CM76]

Off topic but I am wondering if there is any other part # associated with SDC-20 carbs . . . I want to replace the HSH 124 on my 125 and have read from previous posts that an SDC-20 is a good replacement carb I cannot find one for the life of me! Are they listed differently or does it represent a broad generalization for SDC series carbs?

Anyone got one they want to sell?

Thank you!

Another option is the Tillotson HS44A carb. This was another carb that was offered on the CP125, and is fully adjustable like the SDC20. It requires no modification, and will take the place of the HS124B carb perfectly.

Here is a photo of the three factory carb offerings for the CP and SP125 saws:

From left to right:

HS124B - SP125 (serial numbers prefixed 12, and also a limited number of saws with serial numbers prefixed 11) and SP125C

HS44A - CP125 - fully adjustable

SDC20 - CP125 and SP125

 

[Brian Van]

Hey guys Merry Christmas! Question, did McCulloch saws ever come with cases? I don't think I've ever seen one for sale with a case.

 

[Beetlejuice]

Original

View attachment 619651

Replaced

View attachment 619652

Mark

 

[Beetlejuice]

Does anyone know the part number, or even what it's called, the magic module that takes the place of the points? It's for my 1960, Mac 1-70.. I'm getting just a little tired of my arm being yanked off every time I try to start this lovely machine..

 

[heimannm]

There are several suppliers of the points replacement chips, Nova, Atom, Pro Line, etc. Here is a link to one source for the Nova chip.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replace-Po...Module-Chip-Transistorized-NOVA-/151386558036

Please note that replacing points with a chip is no guarantee your problem will be solved, or that the chip will last. Some members have noted chip failures due to heat or being too close the coil, in other cases the timing of the chip may not be as beneficial to the saw.

Make sure your technique is right when starting (bring it up to near TDC then pull as if you mean it), and if necessary check the point gap and set it correctly. Should be around 0.018-0.020", a bit on the tight side will slightly retard the timing and help a bit with the biting starter. One advantage of your 1-70 is you don't even have to pull the flywheel to set the point gap.

My 740 is pretty notorious for biting the hand that starts, and this week when cleaning up and putting away one of the SP125's it decided to be aggressive. After 3 or 4 finger numbing events I decided I'd better pull like a man and it started right up.

Mark

 

[joeymt33]

Hey guys Merry Christmas! Question, did McCulloch saws ever come with cases? I don't think I've ever seen one for sale with a case.

I’ve got cases for my mini Macs and a case for a PM610.

 

[heimannm]

Indeed there were cases for the PM6, Mini Mac and 600 Series as Joey points out, cases for the 10-10 (not sure if they work with a brake model), 300 Series, and for the later plastic Mac saws. I once carried a D-30 is a case as well but I don't remember what saw the case was intended for, it was black. All of the older McCulloch cases were yellow, the ones for the newer saws were black.

PM6



600 Series



That's a case for a 10-10 on top of the pile.



NIB Mini Mac with case



They actually show up on e-bay quite frequently.

Mark

 

[Beetlejuice]

There are several suppliers of the points replacement chips, Nova, Atom, Pro Line, etc. Here is a link to one source for the Nova chip.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replace-Po...Module-Chip-Transistorized-NOVA-/151386558036

Please note that replacing points with a chip is no guarantee your problem will be solved, or that the chip will last. Some members have noted chip failures due to heat or being too close the coil, in other cases the timing of the chip may not be as beneficial to the saw.

Make sure your technique is right when starting (bring it up to near TDC then pull as if you mean it), and if necessary check the point gap and set it correctly. Should be around 0.018-0.020", a bit on the tight side will slightly retard the timing and help a bit with the biting starter. One advantage of your 1-70 is you don't even have to pull the flywheel to set the point gap.

My 740 is pretty notorious for biting the hand that starts, and this week when cleaning up and putting away one of the SP125's it decided to be aggressive. After 3 or 4 finger numbing events I decided I'd better pull like a man and it started right up.

Mark

Thanks for the info.. Does help.. I think I'll chip it but keep points for backup.. Does 1 size fit all, or different chips for different makes? Seems like all my big saws are a kick start machine..

 

[Nickolas]

Every saw I've had that came with a chip ran like crap. After I put points back in they ran great. Only one saw I have runs good with a chip and that my Homelite super 1130G. Other than that I have no use for chips. I prefer to keep saws original myself.

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