McCulloch Chain Saws

[RolandM]

Roland V AKA Belgian also has a 595 which was apparently the designation they used for the European version of the Super 550. I think he also has or had a European labeled Super 250 that was 295 or 395??

I believe the yellow top Super 250 is 80 cc and the later black top version was 87 cc.

Mark

Mark,

My yellow 250 supers are both 80 CC. the U.S built black top is 87, as you say.

Roland.

 

[leeha]

mine was 80. lee has it now.

And still have it.

 

[OldDeadWood]

Happy New Year everyone.

Last Christmas and New Year we wanted some snow.

This year we've had snow and zero temps almost every day for the last three weeks (East of Cleveland in the snow belt).

I hope your weather is better for the new year.

ODW

 

[2stroke_shaman]

Happy New year. Anyone have an extra plug cover to fit Mac 250?

 

[Drptrch]

Help id’ing. Thx in advance .


Erik

 

[rocketnorton]

no #'s bottom of crankcase? askin cause one o mine don't. replacement [unpainted] block.

 

[heimannm]

With that style flywheel cover and the short, yellow AF cover it could be a 1-41, 1-42, 1-43 or perhaps a 200. With the latching choke button on the right I would lean towards the 200 myself. As Pete points out, turn it over and look for a number stamped on the bottom of the crank case. The one shown below is a 1-40 by way of example.



Mark

 

[Nickolas]

Roland V AKA Belgian also has a 595 which was apparently the designation they used for the European version of the Super 550. I think he also has or had a European labeled Super 250 that was 295 or 395??

I believe the yellow top Super 250 is 80 cc and the later black top version was 87 cc.

Mark

I believe the earliest S250 saws with the sticker that has SUPER and 250 below it centered are 80cc, plain covers. Then the porthole covered saws with Super 250 on one straight line are 87cc along with the black porthole saws. I've got a real clean low hour yellow top porthole 250 that's more peppy than my black top S250. I'm going to tear it down and check the crank to see what the stroke is on it when it gets warmer.

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[Walter Glover]

A wire down the sparkplug hole to measure stroke works well unless you are tearing it apart for other reasons?

 

[RolandM]

Happy New Year in advance to all, and thanks RolandM for the photos & information. It may be some weeks or months before I get to the Danarm but I am looking forward to that project.

Ray - I understand the Mk3 version is rather advanced from the Mk 1 & 2 versions but when I get to that one I very well may get back to you & ask for a copy.

If you like a PM700, find a fresh 7-10...

Mark

I have heard you say a 7-10 is stronger, not seen one pass my way yet. I have a super pro 70 in bits which is right basket case, but it will run again one day.

55 mk3 in Frontier ( 5R model ) livery. Its Been living at work, ripping pallets, and other around the factory yard jobs.





Speed limited Tillotson carb. I blocked the buzz ball, as this saw pulls a few more RPM than standard, due to a little more intake duration.



This cylinder is the main difference from the mk2. Mk3 is Chrome plated, versus the cast in situ iron liner with what looks like a bears scratch for transfers. The Mk2 has a removable cylinder head, as does other Danarm's including the 1-71-ss.


Hope yours works out ok, let us know how you find it runs against a genuine Mcculloch 1-10.

Roland.

 

[Nickolas]

A wire down the sparkplug hole to measure stroke works well unless you are tearing it apart for other reasons?

I tear down all of my saws especially the ones that get run which are 99% of them. These are 40-60+ years old and most have original gaskets and seals which are oil soaked, rotten, seals shot, etc. I like my saws leak free and to start with a pull or two and be reliable. I use several to cut wood with on a regular basis.

I'm pretty sure it's going to be a 60313A or a superseded number crank for 87cc. Won't say I'm positive but not much doubt. I've researched those saws a lot in the past and know them fairly well. I haven't run the porthole yellow top but once or twice it's in real nice shape. I'm still going to break it down though it's just what I do with all of my saws except a few rare ones, they keep original everything.

Anyway when its warmer I'll tear into it and check it out. One thing I find interesting is the regular 250 ipl from 1969. It shows everything a normal 250 has but the lid which are what the supers have. I've got an NOS lid with portholes on one side only which is odd. Haven't seen another like it so far...

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[Walter Glover]

Tear downs are rather enjoyable eh!
Spent time today cleaning and reassembling the SP80
Going to see how it runs soon

 

[Nickolas]

Tear downs are rather enjoyable eh!
Spent time today cleaning and reassembling the SP80
Going to see how it runs soon

Yes indeed. I thoroughly enjoy breaking my saws down and cleaning them up, making new gaskets, replacing seals, etc... Getting it all back together and making it breath fire again. The early rotary valve saws are my favorites to work on and tune. Love those big beasts especially the 73 and 77.

My 77 is probably my best runner out of all my saws. I rebuilt the fuel primer, Oiler, carb, fuel pump, made new gaskets from material, new points and got it all back together and nine times out of ten it will start and run on one pull. Just a fine piece of machinery. Luckily the wear plate is like new along with the piston and cylinder in great shape so it's like a new saw.

With the high speed fuel lever dialed in it only takes one click to four cycle or the other direction two cycle in the cut. I've got a 36" roller nose on it with 9/16 chipper and it cuts like a knife in butter. I got lucky and found a NOS side cover which has a new wear plate, bearing and crank seal so I can get one of my 73 saws running properly.

Parts are out there for these oldcsaws if your patient they surface here and there. I've been lucky finding parts for the fifties saws. I've got a 42" hard nose on my 73 with snorkel air filter with stout compression so with the new side cover it should run great after I get it together and tuned.... Most rewarding to bring these old saws back to life. No new paint however that ruins the saw for me. History and battle scars are gone, lost so I keep the original patina on mine... Just spun up a loop of 5/8" chipper for my 73...piles up the chips quick...

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[Brian Van]

Just was wondering if anyone seen this on eBay?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Vinta...129021?hash=item1c66768a7d:g:kqkAAOSwubRXLBVQ

 

[Colton T]

Just was wondering if anyone seen this on eBay?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Vinta...129021?hash=item1c66768a7d:g:kqkAAOSwubRXLBVQ

Looks like a bargain! Haha


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[fossil]

Looks like a bargain! Haha


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He's pretty proud of that McCinder Block.

 

[Walter Glover]

Anyone know where a small piece of felt found in the oil tank of this sp80 might belong? Do not see it on IPL
(Thanks to Ray)
I cannot find where it should go?

 

[BigBlue]

Anyone have thoughts on what a 1-50 that is essentially complete and "ran last year" might be worth?

Rob

 

[BigBlue]

Anyone know where a small piece of felt found in the oil tank of this sp80 might belong? Do not see it on IPL
(Thanks to Ray)
I cannot find where it should go?

Is it similar to the felt piece at end of the fuel line pickup in some Macs that is used as a fuel filter? Maybe they used something in the oil tank for a similar function. Seems like that might not work as well for oil though.

Rob

 

[Colton T]

Got my piston and cylinder back from US Chrome today! Unfortunately I didn’t notice those little clips that hold the nuts in place and am now missing 4 of them. . . Does anybody have any they could spare?


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