Check it to see if it has spark. Those were kinda known for modules going out. I just replaced one on my 610, same saw as Timber Bear. You can sometimes find modules for those on 'the bay, but make sure yours is bad first.
McCulloch Timber Bear
- Thread starter LouieIV
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Check it to see if it has spark. Those were kinda known for modules going out. I just replaced one on my 610, same saw as Timber Bear. You can sometimes find modules for those on 'the bay, but make sure yours is bad first.
My neighbor gave me one over the weekend
runs well I think I may need to take the oiler apart . or maybe I should try some lighter oil was 15° when I tried it out on saturday. But it smokes like all out when I first start it so I assume the oiler diaphram is shot.
Nice find. A thinner oil may help. Have you taken the bar off to see if it's pumping at all? Sometimes the oil port gets clogged up with sawdust.
I have one just like that. It's a bit heavy, but it puts out the wood chips. :hmm3grin2orange:
Yes , I'll try that. Thanks
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Regular bar oil is pretty thick at 15°. On the other hand, the tank is right under the bottom end of the engine so it will get heated.
Check and see if the manual oiler works. From what I can tell the manual and auto pumps are fairly independent other than inlet and outlet and being in the same housing. The oil pickup line in the tank often deteriorates and then you won't get any oil, although if you fill the tank and tilt it back on it's tail you might be able to submerge the remains of the pickup line for testing.
We were discussing the smoking recently on another thread. Mine smokes a lot at startup until warm but the pump diaphragm and gasket are good, and it stops smoking after it's run hard.
The automatic oiler on the 600 Series saws are operated off crank case impulse pressure like so many McCulloch saws before them.
If the gasket or diaphragm leak a little, some bar oil will find its way into the crank case while the saw is setting. As a result, they smoke for a few minutes when you start them until the oil is cleared out. Some will continue to smoke aggressively when you operate the manual oiler as well. It is annoying and can lead to excessive carbon build up in the long run.
Mark
If the gasket or diaphragm leak a little, some bar oil will find its way into the crank case while the saw is setting. As a result, they smoke for a few minutes when you start them until the oil is cleared out. Some will continue to smoke aggressively when you operate the manual oiler as well. It is annoying and can lead to excessive carbon build up in the long run.
Mark
Probably a good thing to just drain them if you're not gonna use them for awhile..
I took the air cover off and there was oil all over the top . I am taking the pump off today to check it out. I checked chainsawr they dont list the diaphragm for this model
It's probably one of those NLA items except for ebay and a few collectors.
I cleaned the oil passage still no oil to the bar . I went to start it and the plug was so fouled with bar oil it wouldn't start . Cleaned and started right up I guess I need to get some parts or basterdise it somehow
How do i know the year the model # is 60013414 serial # 11-156821
jongaydish
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Good old American made quality
I love the old Timber Bears, Pro-Macs and other McCulloch saws. I picked up a saw in pieces in a box that was probably 20 years old. I washed the parts, slapped it together, added fuel (mixed with Klotz oil only) and it fired up in only a few pulls! It is the best saw I've ever owned, crafted with an all metal engine with dual piston rings and solid American made parts. I would match it against ANY modern plastic p.o.s. (Husquvarna, Poulan, Stihl, and new McCullochs) any day of the week! They can keep their Chinese made junk saws. My 80's 655 will run all day without overheating or getting stuck in the wood I am cutting. Long live American made quality!
I love the old Timber Bears, Pro-Macs and other McCulloch saws. I picked up a saw in pieces in a box that was probably 20 years old. I washed the parts, slapped it together, added fuel (mixed with Klotz oil only) and it fired up in only a few pulls! It is the best saw I've ever owned, crafted with an all metal engine with dual piston rings and solid American made parts. I would match it against ANY modern plastic p.o.s. (Husquvarna, Poulan, Stihl, and new McCullochs) any day of the week! They can keep their Chinese made junk saws. My 80's 655 will run all day without overheating or getting stuck in the wood I am cutting. Long live American made quality!
Sane Here...
Still can't get the oiler on the 610 to go. Chain gets hot and stops dead. I'll try a few more tricks before I give up it. Has to be something simple clogging that oiler. Gummed up somewhere.
That's exactly how my Mac 605 works. I just wait awhile and the smoke stops. If I run two or more tanks, it goes away, sometimes for weeks at a time.
Still can't get the oiler on the 610 to go. Chain gets hot and stops dead. I'll try a few more tricks before I give up it. Has to be something simple clogging that oiler. Gummed up somewhere.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Make sure the oil cap vent is clear - that was slowing mine down recently. The cap seals remarkably well.
~Yellow Streak~
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Timber Bear Rocks
I know this is an old thread but.....
I have an older Power Mac 340 a freind of mine gave me in pieces in a box, no fire. So, I put a listing on c-list that I wanted a McCulloch 300 series parts saw. A man called me and said he had a saw but he didn't know if I could use it. He said, "The only thing it has on it is Timber Bear". He said it wasn't running right and he had a lot of timber to cut, so he bought a Husky. He said, "It doesn't have a bar a chain, the bar fit the Husky. I'll take $15 for it". I was on it like smoke on a pile of you know what. I wasn't familiar with a Timber Bear but I sure was curious. When I felt the heft, I knew it was pretty powerful. I got it home, cleaned under the clutch cover, brushed the air filter off and put fresh gas in. It fired on the 3rd pull and sounded/felt MEAN. Reminded me of my old Homelite Super XL. I noticed that the fuel line was a little long in the carb box. I looked in the tank and the fuel filter was only about halfway down in the tank. I wonder why it wasn't running right?
I left the listing on c-list. :hmm3grin2orange:
Today a man called me and said, "I was at a yard sale and saw this McCulloch chain saw. I remembered my dads old McCulloch so I got it. It's got a long bar on it. It says TIMBER BEAR and if you want it, come get it". FREE
Do I have to repeat myself?
He had pulled the starter rope and it was dangling. I took it home and after some tugging, I got the starter drum off. I sanded and sanded the plastic drum spindle. I finally got the drum to go back on the spindle easily and spin freely. Checked the spark, primed the carb, and after about ten pulls, YES !
I love my Macs ! (Mac yellow)----> :msp_thumbsup:
I know this is an old thread but.....
I have an older Power Mac 340 a freind of mine gave me in pieces in a box, no fire. So, I put a listing on c-list that I wanted a McCulloch 300 series parts saw. A man called me and said he had a saw but he didn't know if I could use it. He said, "The only thing it has on it is Timber Bear". He said it wasn't running right and he had a lot of timber to cut, so he bought a Husky. He said, "It doesn't have a bar a chain, the bar fit the Husky. I'll take $15 for it". I was on it like smoke on a pile of you know what. I wasn't familiar with a Timber Bear but I sure was curious. When I felt the heft, I knew it was pretty powerful. I got it home, cleaned under the clutch cover, brushed the air filter off and put fresh gas in. It fired on the 3rd pull and sounded/felt MEAN. Reminded me of my old Homelite Super XL. I noticed that the fuel line was a little long in the carb box. I looked in the tank and the fuel filter was only about halfway down in the tank. I wonder why it wasn't running right?
I left the listing on c-list. :hmm3grin2orange:
Today a man called me and said, "I was at a yard sale and saw this McCulloch chain saw. I remembered my dads old McCulloch so I got it. It's got a long bar on it. It says TIMBER BEAR and if you want it, come get it". FREE
Do I have to repeat myself?
He had pulled the starter rope and it was dangling. I took it home and after some tugging, I got the starter drum off. I sanded and sanded the plastic drum spindle. I finally got the drum to go back on the spindle easily and spin freely. Checked the spark, primed the carb, and after about ten pulls, YES !
I love my Macs ! (Mac yellow)----> :msp_thumbsup:
Worth Looking At...
Yellow Streak, thanks for reviving the thread.
I'll do that tomoorrow -- the first step to fix it. Yes, that oil cap does seal tight, always has. However, I have a feeling I'll have to dig deeper that that.
Yellow Streak, thanks for reviving the thread.
Montgomery Wards 3.7 i finished a while back. I found it in a saw grave yard with a bunch of others I brought back from the dead. I was super dirty, but the oily grime protected it and under the gunk was a nice, clean low hour saw that runs good now after I went thru it.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
One other thing I have found recently that made a huge difference - make sure the area between the inner bar plate and the oil tank is very clean. Otherwise the oil will not come out in the right place, even with the manual oiler. The inner and outer bar plate form a V at the top with the chain in between. The oil should well up in there when the chain is stopped. If not, you will see oil and it may seem like it's working, but the only oil getting to the bar is what runs down the case and drips onto the chain at the bottom of the bar. The bar will still be pretty dry. I blow that area clean with an air hose and my bar is now well oiled, even the 24" bar. I purposely ran an entire tank without touching the manual oiler full bar in oak and the chain was well oiled when I was done.
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
Montgomery Wards 3.7 i finished a while back. I found it in a saw grave yard with a bunch of others I brought back from the dead. I was super dirty, but the oily grime protected it and under the gunk was a nice, clean low hour saw that runs good now after I went thru it.
Timber Bear Repped.
Warped5
WingNut
The oilers on these are problems from time to time. If you get so deep as to remove it, you'll want to CLEAN it out and replace the diaphragm (or at least bring it back to life with a soak in DOT 3 brake fluid).
That one looks great, Joe!
I have one with a 20" bar on it. It's a great saw even if it is a bit on the heavy side. There's just something about the sound of those old Macs that I love.
