Hi, Didn't know if I should puts these in a new thread, or post them in the old one? Any way, I managed to mill up a couple cherry and one oak log so far. Starting to get a stack, small, but its a start.
Milling Pics and what I got so far
- Thread starter OhioGregg
- Start date
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dirty shirt
ArboristSite Lurker
look like a good spot to spend some time .I can allmost smell that cherry
Normally one would append this to the previously related thread to minimize the number of threads and to keep all or the related info together, but hey - no big deal!!
That's some real nice looking wood there and I love that stack of timber. I have never cut cherry but somehow I smell sour cherry - is that what it's like?
That's some real nice looking wood there and I love that stack of timber. I have never cut cherry but somehow I smell sour cherry - is that what it's like?
duffontap
ArboristSite Member
Very nice! I really like your set-up there. You've got some very nice looking lumber and about the neatest stack of firewood I've ever seen.
J. D.
J. D.
Very nice stack ,Gregg-nice set up too.
dallasm1
ArboristSite Operative
Nice stack of wood! A nice pile of sawdust as well.
dustytools
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks good!
valekbrothers
ArboristSite Guru
Mill setup question
I have a question about your mill setup. Does the power head connect to the mill bracket by the bar nuts? How is it to adjust the chain with it all together?
I really like this setup over the Alaskan mill setup. I really don't need a chainsaw mill, a friend of ours has a band mill, but I hate to bother him to get a day together to mill.
Besides I now have a 3120 that is getting hungry to chew on some wood........lol
Thanks for the info, and sorry for all the questions.
By the way, did I mention I really like your setup........:hmm3grin2orange:
I have a question about your mill setup. Does the power head connect to the mill bracket by the bar nuts? How is it to adjust the chain with it all together?
I really like this setup over the Alaskan mill setup. I really don't need a chainsaw mill, a friend of ours has a band mill, but I hate to bother him to get a day together to mill.
Besides I now have a 3120 that is getting hungry to chew on some wood........lol
Thanks for the info, and sorry for all the questions.
By the way, did I mention I really like your setup........:hmm3grin2orange:
SilverBox
ArboristSite Guru
Nice!!! I especially like the pile of sawdust all swept up
Bob, I don't know what sour cherry smells like either, but I would assume most cherries and other fruit woods would be similar. Hard to describe a "smell". but its very pleasant, sweet, fragrance. Unlike Red Oak, which a buddy of mine says smells like cow manure! LOL I pretty much like the smell of all of them.
Gregg
BIG JAKE
Let’s go Brandon!
Very, very nice stack Gregg-thanks for posting. How do you touch up the chain on your saw do you take it off or file in place?
oldsaw
"Been There, Milled That"
You know what, to me, the smell of a freshly opened oak in the morning still smells like, victory. I means I'm doing something I want to do, and have something to show for it, and something for a later project. It means "Christmas" in whatever month it happens to be.
Mark
I can go out and take a picture of the bracket on the saw today and post them later. Its not a problem, or much effort to adjust the chain. The bracket is fastened to the saw by utilizing 2 special extended nuts that replace your saws original bar nuts. They act like an extender, then your original bar nuts go on the outside of that. So its just two nuts to take off the plate, and then you would adjust your chain as normal. Its so easy, a caveman can do it! or in my case, an old farmer can do it! LOL
There ain't no bent nails or bailing wire, holding something together, YET anyways.
Gregg
So far, I been sharpening with the bar on the saw. Done it a couple times. But I just can't seem to get good at it. They never seem to be as good as when ya just put a new chain on. Which I have done so far also.
I have a Pferd files and holder that does the depth gauges at same time.
But I have problems I thing holding the correct angle I think. I see Baileys has a file guide-holder that clamps to the bar. I might have to try that. I think its by Granberg. I need to get few more chains anyway.
Gregg
Yes! my saw dust pile is getting about as big as my lumber pile.
That is one disadvantage sawing where I'm at, instead of at the woods, gonna have to haul it out. Got me to thinking the other day, how many boards are layin there in that pile O dust. Alot!, Im guessing, at 1/4" a cut.
Yikes
Gregg
The file guide holder that clamps to the bar works but is a bit slow. It's very useful to get all the cutters the same length, just like a grinder does.
Those pferd things look like they are trying to do to much in one go. The rakers don't need to be done every time and the constant dragging of a flat file over the rakers just wrecks the file. They also file rakers to constant height not constant angle.
I recommend the basic oregon file guide for newbies. Concentrate on holding the file straight, firm and constantly at the right angles. The file should be only touching the cutter on the forward stroke - lift the file off the cutter for the back stroke.
The sound of a proper working file should be like paper tearing slowly, crisp and definitive, not scratchy. Every few strokes stop and tap the filings clear of the file.
What top plate angle are you filing?
File the cutter until there are absolutely no glints on the edge of the cutter. Buy yourself a head magnifier to look closely at the edges.
For rakers I recommend a filoplate. This allows you tofiles to constant angle which is better than constant height. Check the raker dept with a caliper from the top of the raker to the bar, Zero that and then measure top of the cutter to the bar, that will tell you if you are filing them enough. I file my raker depths so they are 1/10 of the gullet width and that seems to work really well, certainly as well as a new chain.
Rakers also need shaping. The more you roll the forward edge over, the further the raker penetrates into the wood. Most people don't roll them enough and that's another reason why the chain doesn't work properly
Heres a couple pics for you Valekbrothers as to how the thing attaches to the saw, and adjusting the chain. Pretty simple acctually
And heres a few more pics for the heck of it. I know most folks like to see what, where, how, others are doing things. LOL I know I do. These are some of the cherry I was workin at yesterday. I have this setup half in, half outside of what was an old cattle shed on east side of the barn. Kinda keeps me out of the weather, and gives me shade in the afternoons. Plus I'm on concrete too, makes for a smooth surface to work on.
Gregg,
Gregg,
Great Pics Greg. I love that back veranda milling setup - I'm hankering for some under cover milling area, maybe later this year this will happen. I agree that it's a shame that something more can't be done with sawdust.
One of your pics shows a slightly blueing bar.
It's not too bad but given that it's quite softwood you are milling this indicates that either you don't have enough oil coming thru, or, as you have already suggested you have some chain sharpening issues.
You're clearly pretty adept at photography, if you like, post close ups of a typical cutter
1) from square onto one side and
2) square onto the the other side
2) directly on the top and
3) from an 45º angle above and 45º angle to the side looking down the gullet from the outside to the inside of the cutter.
and I might be able to diagnose any chain problems.
One of your pics shows a slightly blueing bar.
It's not too bad but given that it's quite softwood you are milling this indicates that either you don't have enough oil coming thru, or, as you have already suggested you have some chain sharpening issues.
You're clearly pretty adept at photography, if you like, post close ups of a typical cutter
1) from square onto one side and
2) square onto the the other side
2) directly on the top and
3) from an 45º angle above and 45º angle to the side looking down the gullet from the outside to the inside of the cutter.
and I might be able to diagnose any chain problems.
Bob
Thanks for photo sugestions about the chain. I'll try and see what I can come up with as for close-up photos..This is new camera I got around christmas time, so havn't got to use it much yet. New fandangled things they got now days.
As for the stuff/mark on the bar, that appeared when I was sawing some narrower red oak cants. It obviously cut quicker then, than when I was doing wider stuff. The logs have high moisture, as they were cut about a month ago, and live trees, not dead. The stuff on the bar is actually kinda brown, and I can scratch it with a finger nail. Was gonna see if I could clean it off with water or something. It seems as if it got to hot from cutting to fast, or pushing to hard. Almost like burnt on combo of oil, moisture, resin, or whatever. But I will learn as I go, I hope..LOL I have the oiler on the Husqvarna 385xp turned up as high as will go. I was smart enough to do that before I started.
Thanks again Bob, for your help.
Thanks for photo sugestions about the chain. I'll try and see what I can come up with as for close-up photos..This is new camera I got around christmas time, so havn't got to use it much yet. New fandangled things they got now days.
As for the stuff/mark on the bar, that appeared when I was sawing some narrower red oak cants. It obviously cut quicker then, than when I was doing wider stuff. The logs have high moisture, as they were cut about a month ago, and live trees, not dead. The stuff on the bar is actually kinda brown, and I can scratch it with a finger nail. Was gonna see if I could clean it off with water or something. It seems as if it got to hot from cutting to fast, or pushing to hard. Almost like burnt on combo of oil, moisture, resin, or whatever. But I will learn as I go, I hope..LOL I have the oiler on the Husqvarna 385xp turned up as high as will go. I was smart enough to do that before I started.
Thanks again Bob, for your help.
