Thats why the neat colors. It's from a fungus that's only in certian parts of the US. Fusarium reticulatum (F. negundi) is the name of the fungus that causes the red stain in boxelder (Acer negundo). But then again the red color has been know to form sometimes without the fungus. Anyway, neat stuff .. Dont let her help in cleaning the fish yet, she might get turned off by that lol!!! Cheers and best of luck! 
lol sounds good.....I might have to use that one for the bluegill lol I've never had pike though...is that good? I might have to change my signature!
. Now I'm in the mood for some of those recipes that you guys posted. I might have to go morning fishing before work! 4:00am if I can wake up lol. There are some really big carp at the spot I fish, I don't know how to cook it to make it worthwhile...since we are on the topic of fish lol....ideas? 
I work with all kinds of wood in the woodshop, and some species, like some soft maples (boxelder is one) as well as some cottonwood species and many willows, will have that "fuzz" you talk about. It's just the nature of the beast, the way the wood grows. Progressive sanding is one way to get the finish smooth, but most planers and jointers will produce that fuzzy finish you're referring to.
Yep agreed, some wood just seems suseptable too it. I repainted my whole house about 12 years ago (now I do a side each year!) and pressure washed and scraped it down. These are old clear cedar clapboards I'm talking about but the pressure washer had a tendency too fuzz up the boards if you got too aggressive with it. Added another step too the process (sanding).
Well there ARE steps you can take if your really serious about planing very soft woods that tend to get that fuzzy finish. For one, use a very sharp planer knives. For most woods, as the knives get dull your finish is not as smooth, there is more tear out in figured wood, and you get lines down your board from nicks in the knife, but with something like soft willow, all that gets exaggerated, and a dull blade will create more fuzz and even rougher surface. In effect, when your knives are not sharp, instead of planing the boards, you are kinda "beating and hacking" at them (it's also hard on your planer bearings). Another solution if you can justify it, is switch the planer head to an indexable spiral cutterhead with those little solid carbide knives. I can tell you from experience that they produce much less tear out in figured wood, and much less fuzz in very soft wood. They do sometimes produce very slight linear lines you can sometimes see in certain grain, but they are almost negligible. Point is, they really do a better job planing with less fuzzies. Problem is they usually raise the price of the planer by at least a third, although they are getting cheaper every year. I liked them so much I got a spiral head to upgrade my jointer also.I hate fuzz....I didnt know that it's still there after running it through the planer. I havent run any of my box elder through yet, its still drying. I also have the same problem with the soft maple I've been cutting too.....true about the nature of the beast
