Moisture meter ?

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I have a cheap one, dont know how accurate it is, but seems about right. Some of my fresh cut wood is 35-40 percent, some dead stuff that has been down a while but not split 30percent.
 
First ask: why do I need another tool ? Is it a Male T_t....useless ?
Or, do I like to futz; not harvest and burn wood ?
Ask and ye shall discover that most cutting and burning have done without that tool for years. Do you really really really need to take time to poke and stick every split before you shove it into your stove ?:buttkick:
Curious minds want to know.:popcorn::popcorn:
 
First ask: why do I need another tool ? Is it a Male T_t....useless ?
Or, do I like to futz; not harvest and burn wood ?
Ask and ye shall discover that most cutting and burning have done without that tool for years. Do you really really really need to take time to poke and stick every split before you shove it into your stove ?:buttkick:
Curious minds want to know.:popcorn::popcorn:


They are fairly useless, until you have a customer questioning the "dryness" of your firewood.

A good sales tool, that about it.
 
How do you get a meter 3/4" to 1 1/2" into a piece of wood. :monkey:

Easy. You split it.

I picked up one on Ebay, 4 pin but basically the same. Do I NEED it? Naw. But when I'm buying wood it's nice to get a general idea of what size has what moisture content so I know which to burn first.
Hopefully at some point I can get some free wood and then I'll know how long it's been seasoned.
 
My 2 cents arlen is save your money - Learn what dry wood looks & feels like - It's not Quantum physics, the cave men figured it out without some gizmo to tell them the wood was dry.
 
Buy it, you will have fun with it. I have the same one, yes its cheap but it works. Ignore all the negative comments and just get one.
Do a search for moisture meter, we got into this a month ago. :dizzy:
 
My 2 cents arlen is save your money - Learn what dry wood looks & feels like - It's not Quantum physics, the cave men figured it out without some gizmo to tell them the wood was dry.


I am learning more about dried wood by burning the wood that I split. Splitting wood that has been around for 6 months. The weight of wood etc.
Different types of wood. I do like playing with gizmos though. David
 
I am learning more about dried wood by burning the wood that I split. Splitting wood that has been around for 6 months. The weight of wood etc.
Different types of wood. I do like playing with gizmos though. David

As said above it is godo in dead wood, you dont know how long it has been down, and good for homeowners that question youl.
 
I bought a moisture meter years ago to use on the wood that I saw for lumber, but have found another use for it.
I keep it in the glove box of the truck, and any time I deliver to a new customer that got burnt by a previous delivery guy with wet wood, i drag the meter out.
I explain that good dry firewood should be less than 20 percent, preferably around 15.Then I stick the meter into a piece of 2x4 that I have in the backseat of the truck.Let the homeowner note the moisture.Then I invite them to choose a piece at random from the load on the truck and test it.
Makes them smile when they realize with hard proof that they are getting good seasoned wood.
It has also settled a few disputes with new customers.Several people have called and complained over the years that my wood wouldnt burn. A quick stop by their place and a quick test showed them that the wood was more than dry. In every case I found that they had no idea how to start a fire, often the damper was closed on the exhaust of the stove.
Ten minutes of lessons on how to start and maintain a fire in their stove secured customers for life.
 
In every case I found that they had no idea how to start a fire

knowledge is power , my wife has the same problem , I used to come home to a cold house and smoldering mess , and within 5 minutes I have a nice roaring fire , but she is getting better
 
A quick stop by their place and a quick test showed them that the wood was more than dry. In every case I found that they had no idea how to start a fire, often the damper was closed on the exhaust of the stove.
Ten minutes of lessons on how to start and maintain a fire in their stove secured customers for life.

You poor guy! But I love the stories out there. This reminds me of other threads, like the one about us all being hicks from the sticks because we like to live as "green" as we can because it's our way of life. And those people who look down there Latte cup's can't start a fire!:dizzy:

My .02 on the meter, if the wood sizzles more than normal in the fire, it was wet. But if you need one like avalancher or just want to play with one, go for it! I don't have a use for one, but let us know how it go's when you get and play with it.:spam:
 
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How accurate are moisture meters in firewood? I'm trying to figure out a schedule for drying firewood in a kin. Some the last batch of hedge i dried averaged 23% but seems a little on the wet side. I think the split wood not being very smooth throws off the meter.

Does anyone make a meter that hast two probes instead of the pads?
 
How accurate are moisture meters in firewood? I'm trying to figure out a schedule for drying firewood in a kin. Some the last batch of hedge i dried averaged 23% but seems a little on the wet side. I think the split wood not being very smooth throws off the meter.

Does anyone make a meter that hast two probes instead of the pads?

Theory

Quality in measuring (or shooting with a scope rifle) is a matter of both PRECISION and ACCURACY....

PRECISION is good when you get the same result (all shoots almost i the same hole), when measuring (shooting) multiple times

ACCURACY is good when the AVERAGE of multiple measurements (Shoots) is on "TARGET".


Good PRECISION do not necessary mean that all results is on TARGET, but if TARGET is known, we can COMPENSATE or maybe even CALIBRATE (adjust the scope)

Good ACCURACY do mean that the average of resluts is on TARGET, but results can be spread around a bit


Example
If you measure lenght with a tape that are being repaired after being cut. After the repair, the tape is 2" shorter from the zero...
this tape is always going to measure 2" short....I would call that a SYSTEMATIC ERROR....and that it is easy to calibrate....

If you have a measure tape that is ok, but there are uncertaintees in operating the tape,
like is the zero exact at right point every time? is the tape streched the same every time? Etc etc.
I would call that a RANDOM ERROR, which are hard to CALIBRATE for...if not impossible



A good meassuring tool (moisture gauge)...
It is not spreading the results around a lot...
The average of many measuring results is close to the expected right result (TARGET)....
It is not sensitive to how it is operated, like probe pressure etc....
It can be CALIBRATED and COMPENSATED for temperature etc...


Measuring moisture in wood is very difficult (expensive) if you want to hit TARGET in "one shoot"

The only way to do it in one shoot is to take many SAMPLES, so all wood is fairly represented.
Measure the weight (wood and moist together)
Dry the wood slowly in a special dryer for a long time
Measure the weight od the wood
Calculate the moist-%

If you buy a moisture gauge, you can expect good, fair or poor PRECISION, depending on how you operate (quality of SAMPLES) depending on price (quality)
You can expect good, fair or poor ACCURACY, depending on how you operate (quality of SAMPLES), and how it is CALIBRATED and depending on price (quality)

You have to take many samples and concider following to get a fair measurement

Wood have more moist in the SAPWOOD
Wood have more moist in the center of a piece than at the ends
Wood dries much faster out of the ends
The HEARTWOOD is dead fiber and dries naturally when the tree is growing
About SAPWOOD and HEARTWOOD structure, it depends on spieces, most conifers are usually the same

Measure many times, and use average...
Get you gauge checked and CALIBRATED. If it can't be CALIBRATED, you will have to adjust your result.
Check your gauge with a more precise "good" gauge, at a wood shop or a sawmill ("drying superviser").
Bring your samples and gauge so the comparison with the "good" gauge gets fair

Per A
aw come on....
 
I have one almost like that one but mine is a four prong, and it was only 19.95 + shipping. for a cheap one seems to work pretty good
 
mine is a GE Surveymaster Protimeter that's calibrated, takes measurement with external probes and via sound waves.

GE Timbermaster Protimeter takes reading via external probe only, but has option of different settings for different species.

top of the line gear costs...
 
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