MS 180 Issues after Complete rebuild

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Have you cleaned or tried a new or working carb yet????


I would put a good known carb on that saw....as @rupedoggy sais these can make you want to pull your hair out....I have had those do that before and it was the carb....double check gas line and make sure it's good...

Ok double check the manifold (number 17) and #15 are seated together properly....did you make sure to put part #15 back in...#15 slides into the manifold #17....

It sounds like carb is dirty and needs cleaned/replaced, just my opinion....
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Good mornin Rupe,
That is really good information on the aftermarket c&p's
I never thought of it like that.

I might be better off just ordering another NWP piston from baileys to match this cylinder for my compression issues.

Do y'all think this 125 psi is low enough to cause my throttle lag/bog or would you still lean towards lack of fuel and air leak?



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Khntr

Yes sir I did try to clean the original oem carb.
It had a lot of gelled fuel hung up in the metering side from ethanol I would assume.

Before I "fixed" it the saw sat for 2 years.

I've got a brand new oem fuel line, filter, intake boot, plastic ring, and plastic insert.

The carb shown in my latest youtube video is a Chinese knockoff.
My local dealer wants $31 for this original oem carb that I was thinking about getting


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I can't remember for sure but I think the pulse for that saw is through the intake boot. With the carburetor off the saw, put a small sized drill bit through the passage to clean out anything (rubber, carbon, jellified junk) in the boot and the cylinder. If the carburetor doesn't get full pulse it won't pump enough fuel. I had a new intake rubber that had the pulse hole partially plugged with folded over rubber. Mike
 
I can't remember for sure but I think the pulse for that saw is through the intake boot. With the carburetor off the saw, put a small sized drill bit through the passage to clean out anything (rubber, carbon, jellified junk) in the boot and the cylinder. If the carburetor doesn't get full pulse it won't pump enough fuel. I had a new intake rubber that had the pulse hole partially plugged with folded over rubber. Mike

Hmm very interesting. I will give this a try Mike
Yes sir the impulse runs through the bottom of the boot.

Thank you sir
-Travis




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That gunk you speak of is all in the little passages...

Does the knock off carb have both H and L adjustment screws.....I have had these were they had to be 2-turn out to run correctly sometimes, but they worked none the less...

What did you seal the engine up with....I have seen "gobs" of sealeant in ennnes people have tried to fix before, it's easy to use to much...I have taken plugs out to see the sealant has gotten on them...
 
That gunk you speak of is all in the little passages...

Does the knock off carb have both H and L adjustment screws.....I have had these were they had to be 2-turn out to run correctly sometimes, but they worked none the less...

What did you seal the engine up with....I have seen "gobs" of sealeant in ennnes people have tried to fix before, it's easy to use to much...I have taken plugs out to see the sealant has gotten on them...


Yes sir I'm sure your right on the passages being stopped up.
The Chinese carb I bought is also fixed jet so
I won't be able to adjust the high and low needles.

I used a real this coating of yamabond #4.

Do you think I should buy a new oem or try outfitting with a carb that I can adjust?


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Yes sir I'm sure your right on the passages being stopped up.
The Chinese carb I bought is also fixed jet so
I won't be able to adjust the high and low needles.

I used a real this coating of yamabond #4.

Do you think I should buy a new oem or try outfitting with a carb that I can adjust?


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Did the saw run the same way it does now, when you put the OEM carb on that you cleaned...


try to clean that OEM carb up....when I first started messing with saws I found out very quickly that 8 times out of 10 when I got a saw rebuilt and back together the carb was the issue that kept the saw from running....carbs are easy to take off and put back on....

So if it was me I would take old carb all the way apart and clean the hell out of it....it won't cost anything LOL....

Also make sure the carb diaphragm and everything is put back in the correct order...don't ask me how I know this!!!
 
Did the saw run the same way it does now, when you put the OEM carb on that you cleaned...


try to clean that OEM carb up....when I first started messing with saws I found out very quickly that 8 times out of 10 when I got a saw rebuilt and back together the carb was the issue that kept the saw from running....carbs are easy to take off and put back on....

So if it was me I would take old carb all the way apart and clean the hell out of it....it won't cost anything LOL....

+1 on that idea. I guess I can clean it up good and always pressure test it with my mityvac when I'm done

It would certainly be nice to save some money since I've bought this saw new in parts alone.....haha!
I have learned a lot from messing with it though and and the wisdom gained here from y'all at Arboristsite is what makes this whole process addictive.

I've been getting broken saws from friends and family over the last year that I've committed to fixing at no cost to them other than parts.
Wife thinks I'm a total nut case but oh the pleasure I get out of it.

I've got around 6 personal saws myself with one even having a mastermind sticker. What's really bad is that I don't even have a fireplace........


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+1 on that idea. I guess I can clean it up good and always pressure test it with my mityvac when I'm done

It would certainly be nice to save some money since I've bought this saw new in parts alone.....haha!
I have learned a lot from messing with it though and and the wisdom gained here from y'all at Arboristsite is what makes this whole process addictive.

I've been getting broken saws from friends and family over the last year that I've committed to fixing at no cost to them other than parts.
Wife thinks I'm a total nut case but oh the pleasure I get out of it.

I've got around 6 personal saws myself with one even having a mastermind sticker. What's really bad is that I don't even have a fireplace........


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Hey man tell your wife atleast your in the garage and not at the bar LOL...

Ya I have got to the point we're all my grinders, saws, and saw things are paid for or paid for themselves from rebuilding saws....I have a 2-year old girl, and full time job, and a mile long list of house chores for the summer, so I don't get to work on them much this time of the year LOL...

But I would take that carb apart and spray it with carb cleaner....some may say no, but at this point you don't have nothing to loose....make sure you take the L screw all the way out and spray into the hole really good...I work the throtle lever back and forth as I spray them out too...

As far as the compression readings, I wouldn't worry about that...you can get wonky readings from them it they do t seal correctly....I got a good one a a saw friend recommended and it works great...I thought boy, I will use this thing all the time...wrong, I used it on my saws, and it's collected dust ever since...
 
Yea my priorities probably need to be reworked

We live on quite a bit of land and have around 100 head of cattle spread out over a few different places that we work and feed ourselves. Bale all of our own hay and have been working on redoing an old farm house while still traveling all over the US for my sales job.
I also enjoy playing golf, hunting, and am constantly fixing tractors along with other various equipment that my grandpa seems to be able to run into the dirt.
(No such thing as preventive Maintenence around our place....bearing is loose or fixing to go out he just keeps going to the point of complete failure where a torch/welding machine have to constantly be involved)
Wife also just had our first child 9 weeks ago and I'm still concerned with rebuilding this stupid little Ms180 that I won't run but a hand full of times over the next year. Haha!


I will try to break this carb down and see if I can't clean it real good again. Should I soak it in a solvent of some kind?
What do y'all like to use for this kind of stuff?



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[QUOTE="Aggie 2012, post: 6290135, member: 146769

I've got around 6 personal saws myself with one even having a mastermind sticker. What's really bad is that I don't even have a fireplace........


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Hey, that's how these machines get you. I have a gas fireplace, live on a 1/4 acre lot with no trees to speak of ..... and I have something north of 35 saws.

I need therapy ....
 
So I went to pull my carb off of this saw and found a bunch of oil below the carb on the saw (see picture)

What could this be from?

Also when I pulled the fuel line from the carb I had a 6 inch faucet coming out of this hole for a good 6 or 7 seconds.
What r the chances of this thing vapor locking on me?
(Mind you it's 98 degrees here today and it's been on the back of my truck so everything is warm.

I've already replaced the duck bill valve which should have kept this from happening?
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Its not unusual for fuel to squirt out the fuel line on a warm day when you remove it from the carb. I usually loosen the fuel cap before i remove the fuel line so it releases pressure from the fuel tank. I am thinking that fuel is leaking out of your fuel hose and leaving all the oil you can see below the carb. If the fuel hose is leaking it will let your carb suck in air which will cause the lean running issue that you are having. I would check the hose to see if it is split where it goes onto the nipple of the carb or if there is some kind of defect there.
 
Did you clean the oem carb and put it back on...

Ya the fuel pressure is common
 
Thanks for the explanation. Makes perfect sense.

What I ended up doing was cleaning the oem carb again but since it was running lean, I went ahead adjusted the metering lever to allow more fuel flow. Sounds more like it's 4 strokimg on the high side and when I punch it the lag is almost gone!

I think if I was to get an oem air filter (currently running a thin Chinese knock off)
It will help choke back just a little more air which might put me exactly where I need to be in terms of getting the air fuel mixture correct? Also should keep saw dust out of the intake better.

I really need to put it in some wood to see how she runs now. Hopefully I can get a video over the next few days and y'all can advise me on your thoughts.

The fuel line is brand new oem. I tried aftermarket before this one and performance was the same.

Can't thank every one enough for spending so much time helping me out here

Travis


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Thanks for the explanation. Makes perfect sense.

What I ended up doing was cleaning the oem carb again but since it was running lean, I went ahead adjusted the metering lever to allow more fuel flow. Sounds more like it's 4 strokimg on the high side and when I punch it the lag is almost gone!

I think if I was to get an oem air filter (currently running a thin Chinese knock off)
It will help choke back just a little more air which might put me exactly where I need to be in terms of getting the air fuel mixture correct? Also should keep saw dust out of the intake better.

I really need to put it in some wood to see how she runs now. Hopefully I can get a video over the next few days and y'all can advise me on your thoughts.

The fuel line is brand new oem. I tried aftermarket before this one and performance was the same.

Can't thank every one enough for spending so much time helping me out here

Travis


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Do not cut anything til you get a OEM air filter, those AM ain't right...


Sounds like you will be ok, make have to play with the carb, but sounds like you are headed in the right direction....if I ever have a running problem like you did, I ALWAYS start with the carb!!

Hey on a side note rained the other night I rebuilt a MS180, (guy at work wants one)....so I get everything back together and I go tab the carb that was on the saw...this is why the OEM carbs have to be cleaned so good....I got the saw together and she runs as good as a in-adjustable carb 180 will, lol...
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