spankrz
ArboristSite Operative
Wait a second you mean your MS361 did not pull the fencing staples and wind the barb wire into neat coils? I would take the whole saw back and ask for a REAL 361.
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MS 361 20" chain I hit a barbed wire Yesterday
- Thread starter Work Saw Collector
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371groundie
ArboristSite Guru
i dont know what i hit, but i had a whole top plate dissapear once. never felt a thing i was just sharpening along and found it missing. if theres any rough spots left where the cutter is missing i would file it kinda round and smooth so theres less resistance as it travels through the cut. let the power from the saw go to the teeth that are cutting. thats my pair of pennies.
Sharpen remainder of the cutters normally, take the bad one back as far as need be until all damage is gone. After that sharpen chain as needed and eventually the long cutters will catch up to the short one.
Harry K
Harry K
DanManofStihl
ArboristSite Guru
Most of the time when I hit some thing it would have kick back and the saw would lock the chain brake on it. The piece of round stock I hit on the other hand the chain snapped and it came back slapped my leg and got caught on the metal catcher. It left a bruise about 10 inches long on my leg but it didn't brake skin through my pants and my chaps. It wasn't that it was not a big deal but I came to expect hitting something at least once a week thats why I used cheap chains.
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
Since I've never had a kick back, what is it like? What deflection angle is required to set the brake? What kind of stress does it put on your wrists and arms?
Thanks for the reply.
Enviros use spikes of either steel or more recently concrete. The spikes are much bigger than nails! They are intended to be hit during the milling process and damage the head rig saw (which is a big band saw or sometimes a circular saw. The spikes break teeth off the blades and send deadly shrapnel in all directions. If you hit a spike you won't be able to cut through it. The spikes are usually driven into the tree above the falling cuts though sometimes the spikes are used to injure the faller.
Nails can destroy a saw chain and ruin the teeth on a Lucas mill or a Woodmizer. It costs about $25.00 per tooth with a Lucas mill blade. Most portable millers charge $25.00 tp $100.00 per nail hit. Portable metal detectors are a must when milling the butt log if the tree grew near people. The big mills also use a metal detector. If any metal is found then out comes the chainsaw to cut it out.
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
DanManofStihl
ArboristSite Guru
Kick back is when the running chain comes in contact with some thing solid and causes it stop suddenly causing the bar to fling up toward the operators head. It pushes your hand forward which will lock the chain brake. It is very fast and very dangerous. Here is a good link to explain it in more detail. http://www.stihl.de/safety_manuals/usa_en/Motorsaege_US_englisch.pdf
Remember that the primary means of applying the chain brake is inertia. The brake handle stays where it is while the saw moves thus setting the brake. Also I have argued this point before but... you can not intentionaly apply the brake during a kickback because it happens way too fast. (And yes if your hand hits the brake handle it will of course apply the brake.) I set the brake of my saw manually when ever safety demands it such as moving between trees or setting the saw down while it is running.
The best defense against kickback is proper saw handling. Keep the thumb wrapped, be sure of your footing and keep your head in the game.
DanManofStihl
ArboristSite Guru
Sorry I should have been more specific but yes you are correct 2 dogs.
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
I very much understand the "theory" of kick back. What I was asking is how it "feels". How violent, how fast, how far does the saw jump?
I'm hoping to never experience kick back, so your experience is as close as I can get.
Thanks
