Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
16" is getting into 50cc territory...you could argue this for days. OP said that he's pleased with how the 20" setup cuts, so why fix what isn't broke?
MS 362- would an 18 inch bar be an improvement?
- Thread starter skipster
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Ironworker
Addicted to ArboristSite
I dropped from 20" to 18" on my 441 and I notice a difference, but then again I ain't that bright.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I really like 15-16" bars on strong 60cc saws, although I had/have longer ones. A 3/8"x8 rim will make a differense vs. 50cc saws, so you feel the larger saw is worth it.
Now I haven't used a MS362, and don't really want to (too bulky and clumcy for my taste) - but it worked very well on my 361W (an Euro one)., and I'm sure it will on the 560xpg - once my foot etc allows me to go into the woods again....
With all due respect Troll, how can you know it is too bulky and clumsy if you have never used one??? Unless you say the same about the 562? and 262?
I see what you did there.
I had a ported ms362c-m. I thought it was pretty awesome after I used it for like 2 tanks of gas.
woodhaven
ArboristSite Operative
I own a 361 which is very similar power to the 362. I have a 20, 18 and 16 that I swap depending on my needs. I can notice a fair difference between the three sizes.
I think changing chain, from semi chisel to full chisel, or from full chisel to square file, will make a bigger difference than 2" of bar length.
A sharp chain always makes a saw feel good!
A sharp chain always makes a saw feel good!
thanks Folks for all the info.
I'm a novice to forestry and chainsaws(although I've lived in the bush all my life), so I'm following the path of approaching the experts with respect,and hopefully they will share the knowledge and experience.
My particular area of expertise is vintage guitars,banjos,mandolins,ukuleles,etc(pre 1950's) and I've been collecting and restoring them for 30 years.
Its kinda fun going from being an acknowledged expert in that field to being a tentative newcomer to the forestry world, and I'm really enjoying learning new stuff.
I'm a novice to forestry and chainsaws(although I've lived in the bush all my life), so I'm following the path of approaching the experts with respect,and hopefully they will share the knowledge and experience.
My particular area of expertise is vintage guitars,banjos,mandolins,ukuleles,etc(pre 1950's) and I've been collecting and restoring them for 30 years.
Its kinda fun going from being an acknowledged expert in that field to being a tentative newcomer to the forestry world, and I'm really enjoying learning new stuff.
SawTroll
Information Collector
You don't have to cut with it, to feel how it is in the hands - the signs are very obvious.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Terry you nean?
Spent all yesterday out limbing a tangle of downed grey box eucalypts,mainly 10-18 inch stuff,in fairly thick scrub.
My co-worker uses an 038 magnum, and begged me for a go on my 362,just to try it out.
After an hour of lugging his heavy sherman tank of a saw around, i was yelling at him to give me back the 362,and he kept laughing and refusing(he's now talking about buying one for himself)
I'm sure in bigger timber the 038 would plough through, but in most of the stuff I'm cutting I'm happy with my "brick"
My co-worker uses an 038 magnum, and begged me for a go on my 362,just to try it out.
After an hour of lugging his heavy sherman tank of a saw around, i was yelling at him to give me back the 362,and he kept laughing and refusing(he's now talking about buying one for himself)
I'm sure in bigger timber the 038 would plough through, but in most of the stuff I'm cutting I'm happy with my "brick"
SawTroll
Information Collector
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I won't go further into what is wrong with the 362 though, as the choise of saw isn't the topic of this thread. All I initially said is that I don't want one, and then people put their helmets on, and jumped into the trenches....
Well, the 038 Mag is a larger and heavier brick, but that doesn't change how the MS362 is.
I won't go further into what is wrong with the 362 though, as the choise of saw isn't the topic of this thread. All I initially said is that I don't want one, and then people put their helmets on, and jumped into the trenches....
Dave27483
Enthusiasts of the chainsaw
Hi there skip, I am also from Aus,
I run a 20" on my 046 magnum and a 16" on my 550xp and your saw sits right in the middle so why not run an 18" but I'm kinda thinking the difference will be very minimal.
I would make sure your running full chisel chain and really hoan in on your sharpening skills. Once you have mastered it and keep that chain sharp the extra 2" Will seem ineligible
Same wt as the 562 Russ, so is that a brick also??? In fact, the websites currently reflect that the 362 is lighter, but they are the same wt for all practical purposes, which is what I said (and got roasted for) all along. Go search some of the wts that members have posted.
562, 362 C, & 262, are all about 13 lb powerhead, but I've never heard anyone refer to the Huskys as bricks! Perhaps a little bias is showing.
As for the internal/external clutch, I can move my hand 1/2" to the rt on the top handle, but it has been almost 50 years since I took geometry and physics, so perhaps the rules don't apply any more.
Mike ....ITS NOT THE WEIGHT..idk how the hell the weight thing makes it into every 362 thread ..when people refer to it as brick they are talkin more about how it handles and feels in the hands..some guys just like a saw that handles better with a quicker throttle..who gives a **** what it weighs.
Theres some people that need to get laid here..BAD.
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
Hey Skip, you've got all the advice you need about bar length already - 6dl shorter won't make a huge difference, and it's not really worthwhile on a saw that's still got a pretty much new bar. Might be worth it when you wear out the bar you've got.
There are a couple of things I'd try first -
Look into buying a good file guide. I think the only one that is worth having is the stihl fg2, unfortunately they are over $200. They are an awesome tool for teaching the correct way to file, once you've got filing down pat with it your filing in the field with just a file, a file with a simple guide, or roller guide will improve. There are cheaper types that clamp onto the bar, I never had any joy with them, but plenty of others do.
Second i'd try a couple of loops of different chain. Try a loop of full chisel, and try a loop of Carlton semi chisel skip. Both will cut with a little less load on the saw when they are sharp, both get blunt quicker than full comp semi chisel.
The full chisel is a little less forgiving to sharpen than what you have, but much faster when you get it right. The semi chisel skip is just the same to sharpen - but with less cutters.
Personally I find I can usually go a tank without sharpening with full chisel in gum, and if you hit some rotten filth it's blunt in a single cut anyway so I use full chisel more than semi. Plenty of other Aussies use semi chisel or carbide chains exclusively as they are cutting filth all the time. Only you can work out what works for you.
There are a couple of things I'd try first -
Look into buying a good file guide. I think the only one that is worth having is the stihl fg2, unfortunately they are over $200. They are an awesome tool for teaching the correct way to file, once you've got filing down pat with it your filing in the field with just a file, a file with a simple guide, or roller guide will improve. There are cheaper types that clamp onto the bar, I never had any joy with them, but plenty of others do.
Second i'd try a couple of loops of different chain. Try a loop of full chisel, and try a loop of Carlton semi chisel skip. Both will cut with a little less load on the saw when they are sharp, both get blunt quicker than full comp semi chisel.
The full chisel is a little less forgiving to sharpen than what you have, but much faster when you get it right. The semi chisel skip is just the same to sharpen - but with less cutters.
Personally I find I can usually go a tank without sharpening with full chisel in gum, and if you hit some rotten filth it's blunt in a single cut anyway so I use full chisel more than semi. Plenty of other Aussies use semi chisel or carbide chains exclusively as they are cutting filth all the time. Only you can work out what works for you.
