iv just bought a ms 880 and they come with a 404 chain, i need to convert it to a 3/8 profile i know the rim sproket fit but when i came to put the bar on i didnt fit, also will the oiler line corectly if i do this conversion.... thanks for looking:msp_smile:
ms 880 bar conversion problem...
- Thread starter Geal
- Start date
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Are you trying to run a 3003 mount bar on it? You need to put a 3/8 sprocket tip on the .404 bar that fits the saw, which is a 3002 mount.
what it is that when i bought the saw it came with a 47" bar when i asked for a 48" but never mind, but i have a 36" that i used on my 660 before i sold it the bar was a 3/8 36" and wont fit on the 880. ohh and my bar is a duramatic dont think i can change the tip, thanks.
You'll need to buy a Rollomatic bar for it, and put a 3/8 sprocket on it. You can't buy one that way from Stihl. One sec though...you can run either pitch in your hardnose bar you already have.
You have to grind down your bar studs, change the studs, or enlarge the slot in the 066 bar.
And the oil holes will line up?
di don't tink sooooo ??/
sawfun9
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've made that conversion and to make the oil holes line up, you have to take the 2mm difference off the bottom of the studs. This will send the oil hole up into the proper position. You also will probably have to remove material in the bar slot where the adjuster is. That was the only way to get a 36" lightweight bar on my 880. Now it handles great and balances perfect and no problem with oil. I recommend this conversion using 3/8 chain. Tree Sling'r that recommend it to me after he ported my saw.
there;s a brand new 42"es bar on evilbay for 150 bin----prolly a good price if ya need one..
i do remember a month or so ago someone posted about asking your local dealer about that same bar, i think they might have been a special price to move em >??
i do remember a month or so ago someone posted about asking your local dealer about that same bar, i think they might have been a special price to move em >??
sawfun9
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's getting a bit expensive since I bought a new one from a Stihl dealer last year for $92. In fact $150 is getting into Cannon price range and I'd rather have a Cannon if the price is equal. Mainly due to the fact that on the longer bars Cannon have a deeper belly.
Meaning you can never flip the bar over, reducing the life of the bar by 50%?
Karl Robbers
ArboristSite Operative
Shouldn't do, as the studs are being modified, not the bar slot. (If I understand the post correctly).
I don't like the idea though as the studs will be undersized when the correct bar is used.
Better to just use the correct bar mount and be done with it.
For most modifications such as this there is a trade off somewhere down the line.
Ahh, gotcha. Mod the studs, not the bar. I wonder how that will affect bar and sprocket wear, having the rails higher than they're supposed to be coming off the bottom of the bar. I would think that it would be easier to throw a chain. Unless you have a real need to run a certain bar, just get the right bar and be done with it.
galde
Addicted to ArboristSite
One possibility is to remove the bar studs and place a shim washer on the thread that is 1/4 (or 1 1/4) as thick as the pitch of the thread. Replace the studs and torque. Mark the flange just a little CCW of the bottom. Take off the 2mm from the flange. Re-tighten the studs to put the flat at the very bottom. When going back to the 14mm slotted bar, just remove the shimsand the flats will be at 9 O'clock. Or just buy another set of bar studs... I am dealing with similar issues since I just picked up an 084 that had a short bar and there is no point wielding that thing for a 24" cut.
I thought best to revive this thread because I have a customer with an MS 880 and 404 pitch chain that he wants to use with his 36" bars and 3/8" pitch that he already has for both of his MS 660s. I've already told him that the 880 bar studs are larger in diameter (about 14 mm) and that the bar slot is much longer because the studs are further apart. I recommended that he buy a new 36" bar for the 880 (it came with a measly 25") and stick with 404 chain.
He figured he could change the studs and use his bars and chain, but after reading this thread, I cannot recommend that for two reasons: (1) the oiler holes are not going to line up, and (2) the wider gap between the studs reduces the amount of possible tension adjustment. I think for these reasons and others, Stihl does not offer a conversion kit. Although I have not removed the 880's studs to check, my gut feeling is that the internal case stud threads on an 880 are also larger than the 660 and don't match up. Is that also true? If so, the switch over would be messy as well.
Anyway, I think this may be worth kicking around again.
He figured he could change the studs and use his bars and chain, but after reading this thread, I cannot recommend that for two reasons: (1) the oiler holes are not going to line up, and (2) the wider gap between the studs reduces the amount of possible tension adjustment. I think for these reasons and others, Stihl does not offer a conversion kit. Although I have not removed the 880's studs to check, my gut feeling is that the internal case stud threads on an 880 are also larger than the 660 and don't match up. Is that also true? If so, the switch over would be messy as well.
Anyway, I think this may be worth kicking around again.
How about I put this one on the trading post chainsaw parts thread. This will solve all his problems. The roller nose allows 3/8, .404 or even 1/2 inch if he wants. Mike
spindrift7mm
Changing the World One Saw at a time !
Mike if he does not take it I' like to come by and buy it, maybe visit a bit if you got time. Ken
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
thats not actually a genuine stihl bar is it?
No. Check out the ad. Mike
