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Want to Sell Ms200t fresh rebuild

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Looks to me like it most certainly will vibrate too much.
They run just fine. They are slightly stiffer than oem but 200s have enough grunt to pull through and with some bigger spikes it helps stabilize the saw. Surprised the “ms200t king” hasn’t ran one of these. ;)
 
I took a closer look at the red beard part.

It replaces rubber in the system with a metal, direct-contact part. This would transfer more vibration to the operator, in my opinion, yes. Elimination of rubber would make it last forever, however, I guess?

It appears to be a metal piece, threaded male on one end, and female on the other. The way it is installed on the saw seems to render the red rubber stuff completely useless - I don't think the rubber would take any load at all and may as well not be present, unless there is something inside I can't see.

I am not familiar with the 200t, but that's what the pictures seem to show. I took a look at the OEM buffer part number mentioned above, and where it goes on a 200t.

So the red beard part is a threaded insert inside the 3d printed mount. It has give if you would hold one in your hands you would see but just looking at the part it doesn’t appear to be this consistency. These are not a hard plastic like 3D printed part like the others he sells on his website. Which I have also used on different saws, like his velocity stacks or a lot softer like his AM air filters bases.

I have used these AV mounts on all my 200ts for over a year now and I like them a lot. Nuff said.
 
So the red beard part is a threaded insert inside the 3d printed mount. It has give if you would hold one in your hands you would see but just looking at the part it doesn’t appear to be this consistency. These are not a hard plastic like 3D printed part like the others he sells on his website. Which I have also used on different saws, like his velocity stacks or a lot softer like his AM air filters bases.

I have used these AV mounts on all my 200ts for over a year now and I like them a lot. Nuff said.
Without having one in hand it's hard to speculate what material he used. There are tons of filament available and quite a few variances between each type and manufacturers.
 
I 3D printed a gas cap for my saw from PLA filament and the cap washer/seal from TPU flexible filament. Both have held up to mixed fuel exposure for over 2 years now with no signs of degrading.
This is interesting, my own tests show various degradation of most off the shelf pla when immersed in gasoline. It also has a very low glass/melt point. Low enough that I've seen deformation just from sitting in the sun. Tpu on the other hand is claimed to be quite chemical resistant. I haven't had a need to test this. Nylon proved to be one of the best filaments for gasoline resistance and still have good glass/melting point. I'm curious to know what specific pla you have in use and what your print settings were.
 
If the Red Beard product has separate metal parts inside, which I can't see, and the rubber actually works by taking load/forces through the rubber as the OEM part does, then it makes sense to me it would work fine.

Sure hate that huge size, and the red color, though.

Thanks
 
Since the EPA mandated leaner running carbs, they tried to compensate for throttle acceleration lag due to a leaner mixture.
True, they are more common because of that, but they had accelerator pumps back in the 70’s.
walbro SDC carbs had them way back on some Homelites and others.- I think we had to bypass them too when gave problems
 
This is interesting, my own tests show various degradation of most off the shelf pla when immersed in gasoline. It also has a very low glass/melt point. Low enough that I've seen deformation just from sitting in the sun. Tpu on the other hand is claimed to be quite chemical resistant. I haven't had a need to test this. Nylon proved to be one of the best filaments for gasoline resistance and still have good glass/melting point. I'm curious to know what specific pla you have in use and what your print settings were.
I think it just a roll of Hello3D Matte PLA filament that the store threw in when we got the printer. Fairly dense print with thick wall design....I forget exact settings. I'll keep an eye out for degradation. Maybe it is holding up longer than expected because that saw (Homelite Classic 200) sits dry when not in regular use.
 
I think it just a roll of Hello3D Matte PLA filament that the store threw in when we got the printer. Fairly dense print with thick wall design....I forget exact settings. I'll keep an eye out for degradation. Maybe it is holding up longer than expected because that saw (Homelite Classic 200) sits dry when not in regular use.
Biggest thing to watch for is it swelling up, but since you store it dry, it may never be an issue. I'll definitely be grabbing a roll of that filament to try out.
 
Looks to me like it most certainly will vibrate too much.
I used a custom made spring mount there before and it was too much vibration for me compared to a rubber mount in that position. The spring could have been lighter like a 201T but that defeated the purpose for handling the 16 or 18" in hardwoods. A few others did like them.
 
They run just fine. They are slightly stiffer than oem but 200s have enough grunt to pull through and with some bigger spikes it helps stabilize the saw. Surprised the “ms200t king” hasn’t ran one of these. ;)
Why would I want to, I already tried non OEM lower buffers people made and they vibrate. And they don't RUN, BTW!
 
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