Ms460 tuning

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ConcordGarden said:
Right Out of the Service Manual for the MS201

Warm up the engine before making
adjustments. Then run engine for 20
seconds at idle speed.
Do not make any adjustments
during this period – the ignition
system maps the idle speed data.
Adjust idle speed with a tachometer.
Adjust specified engine speeds
within a tolerance of ± 200 rpm.
1. Adjust engine speed with
idle speed screw (LA)
to 2800 rpm.
2. Turn the low speed screw (L)
counterclockwise or clockwise
to obtain maximum engine
speed.
If this speed is higher than
3,300 rpm, abort the procedure and
start again with step 1.
3. Use the idle speed screw (LA)
to set the engine speed again
to 3,300 rpm.
4. Turn the low speed screw (L)
counterclockwise to set
engine speed to 2,800 rpm
5. Use the idle speed screw (LA)
to set engine speed to
3,000 rpm.
6. Use the high speed screw (H)
to set engine speed to
14,000 rpm – starting from
the basic setting.
Do not make any leaner after
maximum engine speed is reached
– the ignition module limits
maximum engine speed to
about 14,000 rpm.
The maximum permissible engine
speed cannot be increased by
making the mixture any leaner – an
overlean mixture increases the risk
of engine damage.
Click to expand...

and this all has what exactly to do with my M-tronic comment that you quoted/replied to?


dw
 
Joe Kidd said:
It's not M-tronic. Tach will work up to about 12.9k and the limiter will drive the tach back to zero. This one definitely needs wood to tune. This saw will reset my tach(Fast-Tach) after hitting the limiter.
Click to expand...


I know it is not M-tronic... I was injecting a touch of levity ;)


dw
 
blsnelling said:
Seriously?
Click to expand...

attachment.php


I didn't think these saws would turn that many rpm's?
 
Last edited:
I guess non of my saws are tuned, i better pack them all up and head to the dealer to let them have a look.:msp_ohmy: What do i do when they ask me about the extra or oversized hole in the mufflers and the lack of tabs on the carb:confused:
 
In my first post i said that i had the high and low at 1 1/2 turns out and it would not idle. Today i pulled the limiters off and set them both again to 1 1/2 it fired right up and idled fine let it warm up and screwed the low in until the r's increased then backed it back out until they slowed checked for throttle response backed it out until i was happy with it now the high got it to 4 stroke out of the wood cleans up in the wood
Thanks to everyone for the info
 
The low is around 1 1/2 the high is close to 2 i have good throttle response it is not optimal yet it is rich. I am having a hard time doing it by ear she is a little loud
 
The saws adjustments on the side 1/4 low and 3/4 high are all the limiters allow you to turn. Does anyone know what the high and low settings are from lightly seated before the limiters go on
 
Most ported saws are tuned from 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out. I think you're way rich on the tune at almost 2 turns out.
 
mdavlee said:
Most ported saws are tuned from 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out. I think you're way rich on the tune at almost 2 turns out.
Click to expand...

I agree with mdavlee u may need to check your LA screw , it should not be holding the butterfly open much or at all at this point in tuning, how does the saw act if you blip the throttle a few times and then set it down. it would seam to me that it would be loading up very bad

At 2 turns (h side)out you may never here the saw clean up(2 stroke) it may just 4 stroke the hole time?
We are all just trying to help, it may not always seam that way:rock:
 
Last edited:
cutforfun said:
I agree with mdavlee u may need to check your LA screw , it should not be holding the butterfly open much or at all at this point in tuning, how does the saw act if you blip the throttle a few times and then set it down. it would seam to me that it would be loading up very bad

At 2 turns (h side)out you may never here the saw clean up(2 stroke) it may just 4 stroke the hole time?
We are all just trying to help, it may not always seam that way:rock:
Click to expand...

I've got an ms460 on the bench that I've put a new meteor piston in and replaced the intake boot, as the old one had a rip in it. The cylinder is good. Pres/vac test checked out good. Replaced decomp. valve, fuel line and filter, tank vent, cleaned carb with a new carb kit and a DP muffler cover. It's an impressive running saw but sometimes after running for a bit it bogs down and will stall if I don't keep it throttled up and it can be hard to restart. Anyways I'm wondering if you would explain 'loading up'. I've set the H screw with a tach @ 13,500 for now but maybe that's too rich? The L screw is about 1/4 out from peak idle.
 
ConcordGarden said:
I would hate to lead someone to believe that they can tune their saw by ear. It's just not possible. I do it all day long with smaller saws but the recipe for error is much easier on the larger saws. Difference between 13,500 and 14,000 will be the difference in plastic start melting.

Just a suggestion that most people aren't going to have this ability.



well if this is what happens when i tune buy ear i must have a melt proof saw yes i have a tach
but it is always at home or in the clove box this is my only saw without a tach fitted and the hotest

[video=youtube;sz9cpb3DG5U]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz9cpb3DG5U&feature=plcp[/video]
Click to expand...
 

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