ms461 bar/chain combos

[MtnManIdaho]

Wondering what some good bar/chain combos there are for the 461? I'm used to running an ms362 w/ 20" rollomatic ES bar and 33rs72 3/8" chain and 7 tooth sprocket. I would like to use this identical combo with the 461 but am wondering if i should stick with the 7 tooth or go higher? And am i able to interchange the bar between saws or should each have its own designated bar?

It also came with a 28" rollomatic es bar. Would it be beneficial to upgrade to a 32" or does the 461 have issues with oiling the longer lengths like the 362?

 

[Lowhog]

Wondering what some good bar/chain combos there are for the 461, currently has a 32" on her but that is bigger then i've ever needed use for. I have a 25" bar at home that doesnt see much use either. I'm used to running an ms362 w/ 20" rollomatic ES bar and 33rs 3/8" chain. Would this be a good combo for the 461 also? and is it better to have separate bar/chains for each saw or is it ok to interchange them?

I'm cutting mostly pine and fir, I have been cutting 10 cords a year with the 362 but am looking to step that up in the coming years.

Ran the rollomatic es 20" on a ms440 for years. That was my favorite combo for balance.

 

[earlthegoat2]

I like a 28" on a 460 with full skip. Back when I had my 460 I had 20 and 28 inch bars and felt the 28 balanced it out so well it felt better than than with the 20.

 

[user 149785]

Upgrade to the h.o. oiler and over 28 in hardwood is no problem. Ive cut poplar with mine pulling a 32"

 

[user 149785]

thats a 25" in white oak. I run 28" es light and 32" es light also. The 28" es light is perfectly balanced on that saw

 

[MtnManIdaho]

I would like to keep the saw stock except for perhaps opening up the exhaust. It will be used mostly for bucking but i would like to have it as an option for felling larger trees. My ms362 does not like anything larger then 20".

 

[MtnManIdaho]

Okie what sprocket size are you running with your 28?

 

[user 149785]

I like 7 pin and full comp in hardwoods 7 pin maximizes low end trq full comp dont dull as quick. Softwoods ill put on the 8 pin and skip

 

[Banguts]

I run a 32" with 36RSLF, and a 25" with 33RSLF on my 461, and a 28" with 33RSLF on my 440.

33 - 3/8" .050"
36 - 3/8" .063"
Full skip
Square grind

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I liked a 20" bar with low rakers and a 7 pin on my 460 for bucking firewood. I sold that saw before I got a 28" bar, but on my Dolmar I really prefer the 28" to the 25" I would put on the 460 occasionally. I think a guy could get away with a 20" and a 28" on a 460 and be pretty well equipped. If you ever needed to you could go buy a 36" bar if you need one in a pinch. It wouldn't be ideal on a 460, but you could make it work. With those three you have your bases covered and you don't need to stock loops for 5 different sizes.

 

[TreeswingerPerth]

I generally run a Sugihara pro light 20" bar on my 461 with full comp chain , occasionally run a 28" Oregon power match full skip if needed .
Seems in the States people use long bars on mid size saws , here if it's 28" and above it's Husky 395 / Stihl 660 's and the 880 when it's above 36" .

 

[MtnManIdaho]

thanks all, I'm still new to the tooth options on chains so all the input is helpful. I'm pretty much sold on keeping the 28" bar, she has a RS chain on her right now but I am looking into ordering a few of the RSLFK. I will interchange the bars for now between the ms362 and 461 until i come across a reasonable price for a second 20" bar.

For sprocket size should a stick with the 7 tooth on the 461 or should I go to an 8?

 

[Banguts]

thanks all, I'm still new to the tooth options on chains so all the input is helpful. I'm pretty much sold on keeping the 28" bar, she has a RS chain on her right now but I am looking into ordering a few of the RSLFK. I will interchange the bars for now between the ms362 and 461 until i come across a reasonable price for a second 20" bar.

For sprocket size should a stick with the 7 tooth on the 461 or should I go to an 8?

I use a 7 on mine. Those chains you're talking about ordering, they are square ground. Make sure you'll have a way to sharpen them, or to have them sharpened. Can be done by hand with these files.. and I've been told, "once you throw the chain on a grinder, you can no longer handfile them." No idea if it's true or not, I think it's due to heat tempering. But, I use a Silvey grinder, which isn't cheap.

 

[Banguts]

To be honest, I'm in northern CA, and I've never run an 8 pin sprocket on my saws. I'm interested to try one now. But I've always been more than satisfied with a 7 pin and a 32" full skip chain.

 

[JTM]

I use a 7 on mine. Those chains you're talking about ordering, they are square ground. Make sure you'll have a way to sharpen them, or to have them sharpened. Can be done by hand with these files.. and I've been told, "once you throw the chain on a grinder, you can no longer handfile them." No idea if it's true or not, I think it's due to heat tempering. But, I use a Silvey grinder, which isn't cheap.

Nice grinder. You can sharpen square ground chain with a round file. I do it all the time.

 

[Banguts]

Nice grinder. You can sharpen square ground chain with a round file. I do it all the time.

Haha, thanks. I asked the saw shop here if they sharpen square ground chains, and they said, "yeah, but it'll be round ground when I get it back."

 

[JTM]

Haha, thanks. I asked the saw shop here if they sharpen square ground chains, and they said, "yeah, but it'll be round ground when I get it back."

That's why I only get to enjoy it for a short time. If I had the time for the learning curve and the funds I would definitely maintain square ground chains. They're just so much smoother.

 

[Lowhog]

I have a 25" on this 066 and a 36" bar & chain on standby if needed. The big 066 was in some really large Cottonwoods today with the 25" skip. A 25" bar would be my limit with the smaller 046 or 440.

 

[MtnManIdaho]

thank you all for the recommendations, I'm still pretty new to all this and my 362 has been very finicky with the oiler which has made things even more difficult. I've just finally sorted out those problems and am on the lookout for a second bar for the 461 so i can run 20" on both and then the longer 28" as needed.

Two questions that i was mulling over while cutting this weekend, I'm looking for a good sharpener. Is electric really worth it or can i get the precision I need running a hand file? I'm currently using the Stihl 2-in-1 for touch up sharpening but I dont think it is as precise as a file guide and eventually the chains just do not cut all that well. I was thinking of looking for an older fg2 but they are hard to come by and know there are newer options out there

Secondly, we have alot of steep forestry roads around here, for woodcutting I have to usually climb uphill and cut logs into 4-6' lengths, roll or flip them down the hill, and then buck and load on the road. However there is alot of standing deadfall just downhill, sometimes whole stands of them within 10-15' of the road. Is there a way to get these up onto the road without losing the half of it down the hill?

 

[earlthegoat2]

I personally feel everyone who does a lot of cutting needs a decent grinder AND know how to hand file in the field. Sometimes stuff happens and your saw hits a rock or concrete or what have you and a grinder is the only way to get any more life out of it. Also, no matter how good you are with a file you are going to file the teeth unevenly in regards to eachother. This is fine if only minute amounts different but as time goes on the teeth are filed at different heights and then the rakers are also different to eachother and you get diminishing results.

If you don't have the money for a grinder that is fine though. You can go a long time on a chain using only files and then take it in for sharpening for 6-8 dollars. Hopefully the clown doing the sharpening know what they are doing. Better to have a grinder and do it yourself though, then you know what you get. Again, these comments are really only geared to folks who do a lot of cutting. Like heat your house with wood or are a professional or semi professional. I own a grinder because I got a great deal on it and I do a few chains for a site prep company. I only cut often when I am milling and the odds of burying the bar in dirt or rocking the chain are low.