Muffler mods and repainting, sorta

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stihl025

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Muffler mods and then repainting, sorta

I modded the muffler on my 025 (waiting to do it on the 357XP) some time ago. Repainted it with flat black BBQ paint and was not satisfied with the results. Just too dull IMO. Used it that way for about six months and repainted with Rustoleum's new glossy high heat paint. That was a bust. Didn't want to cure to a hard finish.

Just got the MS260 today with, what else, a rusty muffler...

I don't care for the paint. Just doesn't look right. Has anyone, until now, thought of using a home blueing kit for guns? Puts a protective finish on the metal. I wonder how heat resistant it is. Shooter Solutions has a kit for about $20 bucks. Most of these kits can do like 5 or 6 guns. Might be something to look into. Here's the info:

http://www.shootersolutions.com/gunbluingkit.html
 
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I don't like the look of BBQ paint much, but it does seem to do a reasonably good job.

Tried some Kyolon paint for high temp engine parts, it seemed ok, looks good, but tended to flake a bit of bare metal. Seamed to stick better with a coat of BBQ paint as a primer.

Not sure just how gun blue will work on the semi stainless alloy used on many mufflers. Don't think it will give it much rust resistance though.

Also you can bake paint on in the oven at a couple hundred degrees, but only if the wife is away, helps to give tougher finish.
 
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I just painted some pipe I made for my hoe, it's coming right off the turbo. It was a high temp exhaust paint that came from NAPA, I also let the peices bake for 1 hour at 400 deg.

I will post how it holds up after a job this weekend, if it can handle the heat from the turbo a saw muffler should not be a problem.:dizzy: :dizzy:
 
Chemical bluing, or gun blue, is a chemical reaction that is actually a rusting process so heat will not affect the color of it so much. The problem with it is if there is any stainless alloy in the muffler the bluing will not take. Another method of getting the same affect without chemical is to let the muffler get a good coat of rust on it then boil it in water for 15 min. Remove from water bath and lightly rub the now black rust with 000 grade steel wool that has been degreased with blake cleaner. Repeat the process until the color you want is achieved. After that has occurred, coat with light oil for 24 hours to cure. Remove excess oil with rag, reinstall muffler, have at it.

After reading the process I think that you will agree a Krylon overhaul of the muffler is alot simpler.
 
If rust on a muffler bothers you just remove it and have it chrome or nickle plated.........Plating shop here wants $25 to triple plate a muffler on my 272xp and I am considering having it done, but then it owuld make eyes at the plastic shroud that is melted onthe edges....so that would mean buying a new shroud to keep up with the mufflers looks! Oh and they have a black chrome too!
 
Chemical bluing, or gun blue, is a chemical reaction that is actually a rusting process so heat will not affect the color of it so much. The problem with it is if there is any stainless alloy in the muffler the bluing will not take. Another method of getting the same affect without chemical is to let the muffler get a good coat of rust on it then boil it in water for 15 min. Remove from water bath and lightly rub the now black rust with 000 grade steel wool that has been degreased with blake cleaner. Repeat the process until the color you want is achieved. After that has occurred, coat with light oil for 24 hours to cure. Remove excess oil with rag, reinstall muffler, have at it.

After reading the process I think that you will agree a Krylon overhaul of the muffler is alot simpler.


Ah, it was only a thought. I don't normally get rust on my mufflers. When I am done for the day, the saw gets a quick brush off, sprayed down with WD-40, and a wipe down, then back into the case. The only time I have ever painted a muffler was after a mod. I might try it on the MS260. Wally World, sporting goods stores, etc. sell a cheap DIY kit. If it doesn't work, then paint it is...

I am, however, amazed at the lack of care that some of these saws really get. This saw, like many others I have seen, was down right neglected. My 025 lasted me almost 13 years before needing a new fuel line due to dry rot. WD-40 good or bad? To each, their own...

But that discipline of cleaning after use comes from the fire department. We have working tools from the 60's and 70's. Not our first choice with the new technology out there, but it there in case we need it.
 
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I just thought I would throw it out there for ya. You will find with the kit that you at Wally World they want you to oil it when your done with the bluing process. If this is the way you go, don't oil it with WD-40, it will actually remove the color that you just created.
 
Look into a high temp powder-coat. They're pretty durable, and the powder-coat guy probably won't want a lot to do it, especially if he's already set up to shoot a larger project.

I had our local shop do my Zippo case one time. He was already set up to do red, and he threw my Zippo in the mix. . . . Didn't charge me a thing.

Remember to ask for the 'high-temp' coating, not regular two coat, or single coat stuff.
 
High Temp Paint

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html

I have used the High Heat 1200 Degree stuff (flat black) with good result thus far. FOLLOW THE LABLE DIRECTIONS!! I did the oven cure route and it turned very nice.

I usually start with a muffler that has been wire wheeled or sand blasted Ill try to get some pictures of the husky muffler up.
 
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