my 359 broke

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ouachita

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the chain would not stop after a cut so I put it back to the wood to stop it. That did not work so I killed the saw and noticed that the chain will not spin freely. When I spin the chain it turns the engine.
 
Would parts from other 350 series saws fit, because I was givin three burnt up 350 somethings last year. I know some people who run dull saws real hard.
 
That, or it's in your needle cage. They need to be took apart and cleaned/lubed every now and then. Just pop the drum off and see what you can see. Check the cage to mke sure the rollers will spin freely. Check your clutch springs. Clean out your drum and cage real good. Don't forget to slap just a tad of grease on the crank shaft before you replace the cage and drum.
It happened to me awhile back and I had gotten a small peice of baler twine in between the cage and clutch. Once I got it cleaned out it was fine. Alot of times, it's just dirt in there or lack of grease that causes your problems. Don't forget to replace that cage if it's bad or the ball bearings won't spin free.
In this picture of my 361, you can see the parts you will be dealing with (which are only three or four) and the peice of twine that had melted behind the cage, causing the exact problem you have. Don't be afraid to tackle this job yourself. It's a 10 minute job and the hardest part is popping the E-clip off.
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Would parts from other 350 series saws fit, because I was givin three burnt up 350 somethings last year. I know some people who run dull saws real hard.

Nope the 350 has a different clutch. Take a look at your clutch and see what's going on. If you need parts, just go to the dealer.

Good info/pics from Anthony above, but yours wont have an E-clip. You have to unscrew the clutch clockwise to get to the clutch bearing. Bearing, or spring, it's an easy fix.
 
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Nope the 350 has a different clutch. Take a look at your clutch and see what's going on. If you need parts, just go to the dealer.

Good info/pics from Anthony above, but yours wont have an E-clip. You have to unscrew the clutch counter clockwise to get to the clutch bearing. Bearing, or spring, it's an easy fix.

Good deal mang. :msp_thumbup: Was'nt sure on the Husky, was just kinda hoping it was somewhat similar. :)
 
Nope the 350 has a different clutch. Take a look at your clutch and see what's going on. If you need parts, just go to the dealer.

Good info/pics from Anthony above, but yours wont have an E-clip. You have to unscrew the clutch counter clockwise to get to the clutch bearing. Bearing, or spring, it's an easy fix.

Are these different than most saws? All I've seen are left handed thread and the clutch comes off clockwise.
 
Well I pulled the clutch and drum off nothing wraped around it. Cleaned everythig and greased the bearing. Everything turns real smooth until I put the clutch back on. Then everyting is tight again.
 
Do I need any special tools for springs? Should I take the clutch to a dealer and let him do it? I also need to replace the chain adjuster on that saw.
 
I'd be more weary of a clutch drum than the actual clutch at this point. If the drum heated up and expanded it may be putting constant pressure on the clutch not so much where the clutch expanded and hits the rim of the drum, but rather where the clutch threads meet the drum. Can you see the clutch physically touching the drum? Worn springs would present a problem while the engine is running, but not so much when you just turn it by hand.
 
I can't actually see the clutch tuching the drum but the drum spins freely until the clutch is tight. Its almost like the drum is not seating all the wa.
 
Not sure but does the 359 have a plastic worm gear driving the oiler (just behind the clutch like the 346xp)? if so, the splines on the drum have to fit into the slots on the worm gear to allow drum to seat back into it. The drum drives the oiler thereby only allowing it to oil when the chain is turning.
 
Working off memory here but there is a worm gear under a cover plate behind the drum. I have always assumed that this is what drives the oiler.
 
Working off memory here but there is a worm gear under a cover plate behind the drum. I have always assumed that this is what drives the oiler.

Yes, that drives the oiler. If the splines of the drum don't line up properly with the pump pinion then it will hold the drum too far out. When the clutch gets tightened, it will put pressure on the drum and the pinion. Remove the clutch and check the pinion to make sure it isn't damaged from having the drum mashed into it.
 
Yes, that drives the oiler. If the splines of the drum don't line up properly with the pump pinion then it will hold the drum too far out. When the clutch gets tightened, it will put pressure on the drum and the pinion. Remove the clutch and check the pinion to make sure it isn't damaged from having the drum mashed into it.

The plastic part that runs the oiler has sliped part way off the drum and is holding the drum out into the clutch. I am going to put it in the press and see if I can push it back on. The worm gear appears to be fine. While I am at it does any one know why I always lose my B/C oil. If I dont use it all it leaks out over night. The oil comes out of the oiler not out of some other place like a crack or a broken cap. Always has since I bought the saw. I got this saw second hand from a dealer. When I took it back he said that it cant be fixed and two others have said it pulls a vacum and you cant fix it.
 
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