my 372xp just locked up.

[woodcutter69]

what would cause my saw to lock up? I was cutting some 24" diam oak saw running good then all sudden it dies. tryed to start again and rope pulled kind of hard. hit decompression valve and rope wouldnt pull at all. I know its not the gas i just mixed up a gallon and was using it in my other saws. if i replace the cyl and piston would i have to replace the crank. i dont know if the connecting rod can come off the crank. baileys sells crank with rod. i have never tore a chainsaw that far apart before I assume it shouldnt be that bad of a job.

 

[GA_Boy]

If you're mechanically inclined, it's not hard at all. Don't order or buy anything until you know what's broken. First things first, you need to pull the muffler off and see what the piston looks like. Take the starter assembly off and make sure nothing is bound up, take the clutch cover and bar and chain off as well. Then see if you can turn the flywheel by hand.
If it's still locked up, then you'll need to pull the top end off.

 

[Roanoker494]

If you're mechanically inclined, it's not hard at all. Don't order or buy anything until you know what's broken. First things first, you need to pull the muffler off and see what the piston looks like. Take the starter assembly off and make sure nothing is bound up, take the clutch cover and bar and chain. Then see if you can turn the flywheel by hand.

:agree2:

I seen bolts vibrate loose, get behind the flywheel and jam between the case and flywheel. Sure makes it seem like the saw is locked up.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Take the rewind and clutch covers off and inspect closely... who knows, maybe you've got a jammed mechanism. Then take the muffler off. If the saw is really stuck internally, the only way to assess the damage is to pop the jug off and see what happened. Stopping solid due to an internal failure is not a good sign... usually means that metal has crashed into metal. Things can get too hammered to save. Good luck and let us know what happened.

 

[Roanoker494]

Don't worry if you do have to tear the entire saw apart because it is not that difficult and we can walk you through the process. I have a 2007 372xp torn all the way down to nothing right now, this one had a busted crankcase. The hardest thing is splitting the crankcase because you have to press the crank out of the case halves/bearings.

 

[Boskaerm]

Don't worry if you do have to tear the entire saw apart because it is not that difficult and we can walk you through the process. I have a 2007 372xp torn all the way down to nothing right now, this one had a busted crankcase. The hardest thing is splitting the crankcase because you have to press the crank out of the case halves/bearings.

I´m maybe going to split my 365! all the outer things is no problem, but talk me through splitting the cases! how do you pull the flywhell? By setting som bolt in the flywhel, where the starter pulleys normaly are screwed in? and the off course setting press on the crankshaft!

 

[Roanoker494]

I´m maybe going to split my 365! all the outer things is no problem, but talk me through splitting the cases! how do you pull the flywhell? By setting som bolt in the flywhel, where the starter pulleys normaly are screwed in? and the off course setting press on the crankshaft!

I have never owned a "flywheel puller", but the starter pawl holes is where you would attach a puller. I have always backed the flywheel nut to the top of the threads, put a small pry bar or screwdriver behind the flywheel to hold some pressure and then pop the end of the crank with a block of wood. Sometimes you will have to spin the flywheel 1/3 turn and pop it again and sometimes you have to spin it another 1/3 turn and pop it once more.

You will need to have the cylinder, muffler, intake and fuel tank off the saw also. If you take your time and watch close you can walk yourself through removing all those parts, just a handful of bolts. Will also need to remove the drive sprocket, oil pump cover, oil pump and clutch.

There are only six bolts holding the two case halves together. One is on the front of the saw, one is under the ignition coil and the other four are under the flywheel. You will have to have some kind of press to remove the crank, I have attached some pics to help out on that.

Tool from Husqvarna, pictures are from member Cantdog

Here is someone using a homemade press
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/mT0oJ-0s758" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[mweba]

I have never owned a "flywheel puller", but the starter pawl holes is where you would attach a puller. I have always backed the flywheel nut to the top of the threads, put a small pry bar or screwdriver behind the flywheel to hold some pressure and then pop the end of the crank with a block of wood. Sometimes you will have to spin the flywheel 1/3 turn and pop it again and sometimes you have to spin it another 1/3 turn and pop it once more.

You will need to have the cylinder, muffler, intake and fuel tank off the saw also. If you take your time and watch close you can walk yourself through removing all those parts, just a handful of bolts. Will also need to remove the drive sprocket, oil pump cover, oil pump and clutch.

There are only six bolts holding the two case halves together. One is on the front of the saw, one is under the ignition coil and the other four are under the flywheel. You will have to have some kind of press to remove the crank, I have attached some pics to help out on that.

Tool from Husqvarna, pictures are from member Cantdog

Here is someone using a homemade press
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/mT0oJ-0s758" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Hey.....That someone is me LOL

Here is a good one for ya. Cheap tool, worth its weight in gold. Also easy to make yourself.

<object width="640" height="390"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/jDDtDYUkNkQ?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/jDDtDYUkNkQ?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="390"></embed></object>

 

[Boskaerm]

Shouldn´t be a problem removing P/C, clutch, oiler etc! And splitting the ases shouldn´t be either, just needs to know what site you should press it out from etc.
Have made completely rebuilds of lots of two stroke Yamha MX engines, including gearboxes! But always nice with some tricks, from others, who did it before!

BTW: My 365 has the Little ZAMA carb, IF I wanted to fit a Walbro to it, would I need to change other stuff? Intake boot?

 

[Roanoker494]

BTW: My 365 has the Little ZAMA carb, IF I wanted to fit a Walbro to it, would I need to change other stuff? Intake boot?

Can not help you on that one but I am sure someone will pass by here shortly with the answer.

 

[Roanoker494]

I like the flywheel tool you used, I am going to have to make me one of those.

 

[Boskaerm]

so, you pull the crank out of both halfs? which site first? How do you get the crankshaft in to the cases?

 

[hamish]

BTW: My 365 has the Little ZAMA carb, IF I wanted to fit a Walbro to it, would I need to change other stuff? Intake boot?

All you need to change is the carb, everything else is the same.

 

[SawTroll]

WS manual 372/365/362 2000

Maybe it helps.

 

[Roanoker494]

so, you pull the crank out of both halfs? which site first? How do you get the crankshaft in to the cases?

You can press out one side of the crank or both depending on the work you need to do. There is a couple ways to to put it back together, Husqvarna makes a tool for that also. I have always pushed the case\bearings onto the crank as far as possible and then used the case bolts to draw the case together. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to keep anything from binding.

 

[TK]

Applying slight heat to the areas of the crankcase where the bearings are located should assist in getting it apart. If you're going to go as far as tearing the thing down, might as well make sure the bearings come with the crank.

 

[parrisw]

I heat the case half's, then drop the bearings into the case's, then heat again with the bearings in, then slide the crank into the heated half, then heat the other case half then slide that on over the crank, then you'll have minimal to pull the half's together with the bolts.

 

[pioneerguy600]

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=131284&highlight=installing+bearings+using+heat

This thread may help.

 

[Boskaerm]

WS manual 372/365/362 2000

Maybe it helps.

Thanks troll, thats just what i wanted! Can you find the same for my other saws somewhere?

Thanks to everyone else for the input!

And my apolligize for high jacking the thread from the OP.

 

[woodgrenade]

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