AKDriveSprocket
ArboristSite Guru
What do you check first when you get a used saw and it don`t start? The first thing I do is pull on the cord and feel for compression. I should feel a thump, thump, thump as I pull on the cord indicating it has compression. If I don`t feel the compression thump, the muffler comes off to inspect the piston. If it is ok I move on. If not the project stops. And the search for parts begins. New top end is in and on and it is pressure and vac tested. Carb is reset and cleaned. I`m yet to have a saw fail the pressure and vac test.
OK, it has compression. Out with the old fuel and new fuel goes in. If it smells bad, it is bad. If it starts good, if not I check and see if the plug is wet with fuel. If it is dry I will put a little mix down the plug hole and see if it starts. If it kicks over I have a fuel problem. I move to the carb problems. If it is wet I give it a few more pull so I can get pass the old gas that my be still in the line and carb. The first plug change is in order now and spark is checked by grounding the plug on the jug. But before this I turn the saw up side down and pull on the cord to make sure it does not have any excess fuel that my ignight. If it has no spark I have a elec problem.
Well lets start with fuel first because 9 out of 10 times it is fuel related. Most of the saws I get have been sitting on a shelf and was not shut down as it should have been. Visually checking the fuel line,filter and impulse line is easy. Replace as needed. Carb kits are fast and easy but make sure the meter valve is set also. Husky line is so much easier than Stihl. I have husky line in the box all the time. Stihl line I have to go get. Does it start? If not I move to the carb.
Time to take out the carb and take it apart and clean. I use a dull razer to separate the layers of gaskets rather then cutting them off. If it tears or the diaphragm is sagging to much carb kit. Soaking the carb in fuel and gently hitting all the ports with compressed air. This is done a few times to make sure all the junk is pushed out. This usually does it. I`m yet to pull any welsh plugs. Readjusting the carb at 1-1 1/4 turn out on both the low and high jets. I shoot for 2700 rpm with the LA screw and than adjust the low for the best idle. I use a tach for the high end and always falling back on the LA screw after any adjustments are made with the low or high jets. I hate the caps on any carb. If the saw is to be sold I don`t trim the tabs. And the carb is set fat on the high.
Elec is my biggest down fall. Cleaning the fly wheel and coil are easy as well as changing the plug. Broken wires, connection, switches and sheered keys on the fly wheel are time consuming to me. I just got the 22mm x 1.5 puller for the Stihls so the fly wheel on some saws should be easier. If the elec fix is not right out in the open I struggle with it. Coils are expensive and hate to change it with out checking the rest of the saw. I`m yet to fuss with any points on two stokes. So far I have had only one bad coil and the rest of the elec fixes have been right out in front of me, bad wire, ground wire not grounded.
Most of the time it is a easy fix on all the saws I have come across. All my saws run good besides my MS 280 that gets a new impulse,fuel line and filter and carb kit this winter. And pressure and vac tested again. I got this saw in a box in parts and put a new top end on it and it ran good for the first year. Than it would not idle right but ran good pass idle.
Feel free to add to make my trouble shooting to make it easer and less time consuming. I`m yet to pull any seals or split any cases as of yet.
OK, it has compression. Out with the old fuel and new fuel goes in. If it smells bad, it is bad. If it starts good, if not I check and see if the plug is wet with fuel. If it is dry I will put a little mix down the plug hole and see if it starts. If it kicks over I have a fuel problem. I move to the carb problems. If it is wet I give it a few more pull so I can get pass the old gas that my be still in the line and carb. The first plug change is in order now and spark is checked by grounding the plug on the jug. But before this I turn the saw up side down and pull on the cord to make sure it does not have any excess fuel that my ignight. If it has no spark I have a elec problem.
Well lets start with fuel first because 9 out of 10 times it is fuel related. Most of the saws I get have been sitting on a shelf and was not shut down as it should have been. Visually checking the fuel line,filter and impulse line is easy. Replace as needed. Carb kits are fast and easy but make sure the meter valve is set also. Husky line is so much easier than Stihl. I have husky line in the box all the time. Stihl line I have to go get. Does it start? If not I move to the carb.
Time to take out the carb and take it apart and clean. I use a dull razer to separate the layers of gaskets rather then cutting them off. If it tears or the diaphragm is sagging to much carb kit. Soaking the carb in fuel and gently hitting all the ports with compressed air. This is done a few times to make sure all the junk is pushed out. This usually does it. I`m yet to pull any welsh plugs. Readjusting the carb at 1-1 1/4 turn out on both the low and high jets. I shoot for 2700 rpm with the LA screw and than adjust the low for the best idle. I use a tach for the high end and always falling back on the LA screw after any adjustments are made with the low or high jets. I hate the caps on any carb. If the saw is to be sold I don`t trim the tabs. And the carb is set fat on the high.
Elec is my biggest down fall. Cleaning the fly wheel and coil are easy as well as changing the plug. Broken wires, connection, switches and sheered keys on the fly wheel are time consuming to me. I just got the 22mm x 1.5 puller for the Stihls so the fly wheel on some saws should be easier. If the elec fix is not right out in the open I struggle with it. Coils are expensive and hate to change it with out checking the rest of the saw. I`m yet to fuss with any points on two stokes. So far I have had only one bad coil and the rest of the elec fixes have been right out in front of me, bad wire, ground wire not grounded.
Most of the time it is a easy fix on all the saws I have come across. All my saws run good besides my MS 280 that gets a new impulse,fuel line and filter and carb kit this winter. And pressure and vac tested again. I got this saw in a box in parts and put a new top end on it and it ran good for the first year. Than it would not idle right but ran good pass idle.
Feel free to add to make my trouble shooting to make it easer and less time consuming. I`m yet to pull any seals or split any cases as of yet.
