My new sawbuck!

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looks good to me.

Yes, it sure does!


..but I have a couple of remarks anyway (just my opinion);

1) I think the distance between the Xes are too large - who burns 2 1/2' firewood?

2) More important - there should be a "cross-brace" on each side, to sturdy the construction - that is more important than the dimention of the materials.

3) 4x4 + 2x4 is way overkill if you are going to move it much around.
 
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Yes, it sure does!


..but I have a couple of remarks anyway (just my opinion);

1) I think the distance between the Xes are too large - who burns 2 1/2' firewood?

2) More important - there should be a "cross-brace" on each side, to sturdy the construction - that is more important than the dimention of the materials.

3) 4x4 + 2x4 is way overkill if you are going to move it much around.

It's only 1 1/2' wide at the top. I built it with a cross brace on each end. I did the drawing in about 5 min. to get an idea. Mine doesn't look exactly like it. It's not that heavy my girlfriend's dad and I can easily load it in the back of my pickup if needed. It's not going to get moved that much anyway.
 
I don't get it. Why in the world would you wrestle a piece that size up onto a sawbuck?

I'd have it diced up in a few seconds with it laying on the ground. Cut 80% of the way through then roll and finish.

Nice wood work though!

I wanted somehting in there for the pictures and that was the only thing I had at the time.
 
Great job on that... :cheers: you could prolly make a little cash on the side sellin' those.

Wish I could use one. But about 75% of the wood I cut is too big to lift in to a sawbuck. I would need a grapple. :)

Gary
 
Good job!!

"2) More important - there should be a "cross-brace" on each side, to sturdy the construction - that is more important than the dimention of the materials."

I disagree.

With the way he has the 4X4s notched and locked together, no additional bracing is needed. They would just add weight, not strength.

I think that the design is quite good. I probably would shorten the top of the 4X4s a little just to make loading easier, but it is fine just as it is.
 
"2)
I think that the design is quite good. I probably would shorten the top of the 4X4s a little just to make loading easier, but it is fine just as it is.

Thanks! It will get a lot of use, testing and tuning saws. Loading is a little tuff. There is a fresh maple log in it now and it wasn't a lightweight.
 
I would have to agree with Sawtroll. I would have moved the middle brace closer to one end. The distance between the two close ones should be about 3 inches shorter than the length of the final desired log length. That way you can hold the piece on two x's and cut the overhanging piece on the outside of the horse. If you are cutting really long firewood, you are probably OK, but for my desired length I would have to cut in between the X's, where it would bind.
 
I would have to agree with Sawtroll. I would have moved the middle brace closer to one end. The distance between the two close ones should be about 3 inches shorter than the length of the final desired log length. That way you can hold the piece on two x's and cut the overhanging piece on the outside of the horse. If you are cutting really long firewood, you are probably OK, but for my desired length I would have to cut in between the X's, where it would bind.

Yeah, I just pictured it as being symmetrical. The way I have it is like you said. I will be left with a piece approximately 30" long, which would make two pieces of firewood instead of one. I can easily change it by removing the screws from the side braces and sliding the middle x one way or the other and replace the screws.
 
I would have to agree with Sawtroll. I would have moved the middle brace closer to one end. The distance between the two close ones should be about 3 inches shorter than the length of the final desired log length. That way you can hold the piece on two x's and cut the overhanging piece on the outside of the horse. If you are cutting really long firewood, you are probably OK, but for my desired length I would have to cut in between the X's, where it would bind.

That's how I built mine. I only use mine for the very small stuff that is easy to pick up. My son picks them up and feeds them thru while I cut.

2009-04-30002.jpg
 
"2) More important - there should be a "cross-brace" on each side, to sturdy the construction - that is more important than the dimention of the materials."

I disagree.

With the way he has the 4X4s notched and locked together, no additional bracing is needed. They would just add weight, not strength.

Mine isn't even 4x4 and is plenty strong without crossbracing.
 

Just catching up to this thread. What if you used a piece of thick walled pipe as the pivot point in the middle of each of the "X's"? You could pin the two outside ones on each side and then leave the one in the middle to "float". That way it would be adjustable for the length of log you were sawing. If necessary, you could add a bracket to the bottom of the middle 'X" that would lock over the lower 2x4.
 
About the only thing different I would have done is leave out those long 2 x 4s along the bottom front and back. Those would get in the way of my toes. Assuming your other joints are good, they don't add much and would get in my way as I worked.

Just MHO.
 
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I don't get it. Why in the world would you wrestle a piece that size up onto a sawbuck?

I'd have it diced up in a few seconds with it laying on the ground. Cut 80% of the way through then roll and finish.

Nice wood work though!

I do that all the time, it saves the chain from hitting the dirt + it saves the back!

I would have to agree with Sawtroll. I would have moved the middle brace closer to one end. The distance between the two close ones should be about 3 inches shorter than the length of the final desired log length. That way you can hold the piece on two x's and cut the overhanging piece on the outside of the horse. If you are cutting really long firewood, you are probably OK, but for my desired length I would have to cut in between the X's, where it would bind.

LOL, I don't agree with you agreement! The distance between the X-es should be the same as the desired firewood length, and except for the end ones, they can be made of pretty light wood!
 
This is the first sawbuck I made. I don't use it for firewood though. I built it to test saws on and to take to shows where we display and run saws. I cut all my firewood on the ground way away from where my sawbuck is located usually.
 
I wouldn't be afraid to put a 30" log in it with a forklift and use it at the Halifax Heritage Fest. !!!!!!!!!!! We used a Poulan "44" bowsaw on the log.........Awesome!
Igpoe:cheers:
 
I know I'm missing something here, so explain it to me.

You have to lift very heavy logs up on that thing, and keep sliding them out to the edge to cut them, and then pick them up again when they hit the ground.
I think it would be easer to just cut them on the ground and only pick them up once.
 
Nice! I'm hoping you will be coming to the GTG in March, so perhaps you can bring that. I'm not too far away from you, so I'll be glad to come down and help you haul anything you need to.
 
I know I'm missing something here, so explain it to me.

You have to lift very heavy logs up on that thing, and keep sliding them out to the edge to cut them, and then pick them up again when they hit the ground.
I think it would be easer to just cut them on the ground and only pick them up once.

It's about beer and cookies, they DO have a relationship. But heavy equiptment does get involved. The ground is our friend and we allow it to provide a base for gravity to depend upon..........a "catch-all" if you will. Our demonstrations are about more than chainsaws. How did that guy get that name "Stinkbait"?
Igpoe:cheers:
 

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