Narrow Kerf, for what?

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Why would they ship the 346 NE from the factory with NK bar and chain if its not the best combination for that saw? They have done the testing I'm sure and want the saw to perform the best it can so they can sell more saws .

i think it's a holdover from the older 346.....maybe they had tons of those bars/chains laying around and need to off them somehow...

I use mine with nk, having not known any better, but I'll wait til I trash the nk stuff before changing it out. the trees i cut don't seem to grow money.:cry:
 
it's for performance and for lowvibes :)
Nk/pixel is a good chain and it's not bad in any way but there is faster chains out there for the NE346 but that does not necessary mean it's a better chain ,, just faster !
 
Why would they ship the 346 NE from the factory with NK bar and chain if its not the best combination for that saw? They have done the testing I'm sure and want the saw to perform the best it can so they can sell more saws .


I think it is shipped with that chain because it is the best for that saw - when used for limbing.

Thing is that most of the AS owners use it for bucking and that is when a more agressive chain is favoured. I have tried regular .325 (stihl RSC) on mine - and really prefer the husky/oregon NK chain for the 346xp-NE. I guess it all comes down to preferences instead of one chain being the right one - or others being the wrong ones.
 
I use mine with nk, having not known any better, but I'll wait til I trash the nk stuff before changing it out. the trees i cut don't seem to grow money.:cry:

If you think there's a .325 chain you'd like better than the NK, buy one in .050 and run it on the NK bar. If it works better for you than the NK, then buy a regular bar when the NK bar wears out.
 
Expect lots of pinching and thrown chains with NK

I have been using chainsaws since 1972. My Sears Crapsman/Mcc 55cc saw came with NK bar and Oregon 95VP NK chain on it. I'm not sure if I like it. I've experienced more incidents of pinching with this new fangled NK chain than with any other type of chain. Lots of incidents of NK chain being thrown off the bar as well.

NK may cut faster than regular chain, but it pinches much more often than regular chain. Never have experienced this problem with the other chains that I have experience with.

I'm wondering if the Woodsman Pro 20NK SC chain and bar combo sold by Bailey's will work better than Oregon 95VP. Bailey's website claims that regular chain will work on a NK bar.
 
I'm wondering if the Woodsman Pro 20NK SC chain and bar combo sold by Bailey's will work better than Oregon 95VP.

I haven't measured it, but I bet the pinch clearance is the same or very close.
Bailey's website claims that regular chain will work on a NK bar.

Yep, and if you run the full width cutters on the narrower bar, it will be harder to pinch the bar. (but just as easy to pinch the chain)

I think I'll start using wedges more until I get better at figuring out where the tension is on a downed log.
 
Why would they ship the 346 NE from the factory with NK bar and chain if its not the best combination for that saw? They have done the testing I'm sure and want the saw to perform the best it can so they can sell more saws .

I think it's a holdover from the older 346.....


That is what I think as well, old habit....
 
.... Thing is that most of the AS owners use it for bucking and that is when a more agressive chain is favoured. I have tried regular .325 (stihl RSC) on mine - and really prefer the husky/oregon NK chain for the 346xp-NE. I guess it all comes down to preferences instead of one chain being the right one - or others being the wrong ones.

That is a very good point, there is nothing like "one chain fits all situations"!

Other peoples experiense may not fit your situation.

...but the 21LP works great for limbing birch here - next options to test is 8-pin .325 and 7-pin 3/8"......
 
The LP/LPX and RSC will outcut the NK chains by a wide margin on the NE346xp - but it is hard to explain why that is so, except they are chisel vs. semi-chisel.

+1. BIG difference in my testing on the Dolmar 420, which runs about like a 50cc saw. The NK chain was aweful. I'll never buy a loop. 3/8 Picco was WAY faster. LP was just as fast as the Picco, even on a smallish saw like that. That margin would only increase on a bigger saw.
 
+1. BIG difference in my testing on the Dolmar 420, which runs about like a 50cc saw. The NK chain was aweful. I'll never buy a loop. 3/8 Picco was WAY faster. LP was just as fast as the Picco, even on a smallish saw like that. That margin would only increase on a bigger saw.


I had to push really hard on my NE346xp to make it cut decently (means faster than the 353) when it was new - that was with 15" bar and 95VP.

...and yes - the chain was sharp...

The weekend after (or so), I had got the 16" bar and 21LP - lots of difference (as expected)! :cheers:

By now, I have some 25RSC waiting as well, but don't really expect it to be faster than the LP.
 
I like the 95VP on my 350 just fine. In fact I just aquired another 350 this week and it came with 20LP on it along with some 95vp chains.

I tried it out with the 20LP and it done fine, maybe just a hair faster, but the 350 seems to pull the 95vp easier.

Truth be told I probably like the 95VP since it seems to stay sharper longer then the full chisel 20LP as it seems alot of my wood is down on the ground or has been drug through the dirt some.

If I ever get the time I would like to try the NK on some of my other 50cc saws to see how it acts on say my PP325 or Jred 49sp. But with rehabbing a house, working and such it may not happen very soon.
 
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I think I'll start using wedges more until I get better at figuring out where the tension is on a downed log.

I cut most of my firewood from downed oak which is in compression or tension. I probably should use wedges sooner and more often with NK. With the narrower cuts of NK, there is close to zero advance warning of B&C pinching.
 
I just got a couple loops of Bailey’s 20NK. The chain looks a lot better than I thought. The side links are thicker and don't have stiffing rib in them. The cutting link is a lot bigger than the 95VP. The cut is quite aggressive. Overall I think its an old school semi chisel chain design that will work quite well. All of the sharpening equipment works on the 20NK, Husky roller block and Carlton File O Plate.

The main problem with pinching the bar is due to the fast cut. It inspires a lot of confidence, and then reality sets in. When I think and use good technique there is no problem with pinches.
ZG
 
I've got the NK on my CS56, it does seem to pinch more than my 3/8lp on my Wildthang and it does seem to dull faster. I'm thinking of converting over to std 3/8 semi chisel skip, if for no other reason, I can reduce the different files I have rolling around on my bench. ( I know 3/8 and 3/8lp use different files...I have 3/8 on the 6401 also ) I just need to find a 3/8 20" bar, I know some of the CS62's came with 3/8 so there has to be a bar out there.
 
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