NEED A COIL FOR JONS 49SP- Anybody Know of A Good One?

[chrisford]

Maybe but I was thinking the cyl itself losing ground to the cases when it heats up.....sounds kinda far fetched but something is happening as the egine gets warm and that's the only thing I can think of. Where is your chip mounted??

Chip is mounted under air filter inside the housing. Thats where it was when I got the saw. I know you said its better mounted behind flywheel using the threads from the wire plate. Well now theres no spark even cold. Now its just a dead horse. Like I said before, it had spark, ran nice. Turned it on and off started several times. Ran it a few minutes and spark suddenly died. It would then spark when cold, but now it dont even spark cold, its dead in the water. I bet a fresh coil would fix it, but arent available

 

[tree monkey]

if you can find a elec coil for a 1074, p26, or p28 pioneer it is almost a derect bolt on and works great

 

[DSS]

if you can find a elec coil for a 1074, p26, or p28 pioneer it is almost a derect bolt on and works great

I don't have an electronic coil, I'm looking for one myself and they're hard to find.

I got a few points coils if that would help. That's a good looking saw.

 

[tree monkey]

i found a good 49sp points coil if you still need it

 

[chrisford]

i found a good 49sp points coil if you still need it

Well thanks for the help everyone. I got it running! The 2 coils I have are both GOOD. For some reason the saw did not like the NOVA electronic chip. Went through 2 brand new chips with same results, it would start out with nice spark, then no spark after a couple minutes. The saw was frying the chips for some reason. So, did away with the electronic chip, put a good points setup back on the saw, as original, and it runs like a champ with no problems. Not sure why the chip setup didnt work, but Im sticking with the points!

 

[chrisford]

View attachment 255364View attachment 255365Heres a couple more pics of the saw, it was previously used to collect dust and decorate a shed for awhile. I traded covers and handles off another saw and sprayed everything down with hi-solv and a rag. Hi-solv is an autobody grease,wax remover for pre-paint prepping, and seems to work great cleaning chainsaws, it evaporates quickly and leaves no residue. Tomorrow Im going to the saw dealer for bar and chain and I will post a vid cutting some wood with it. Now, Im looking for a 70E or 80 to get running. Got to have a bigger saw too!View attachment 255362View attachment 255363

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Congrats on your success. Fine looking saw.

I'm headed out to look at my first J-red this afternoon myself.....a 70E with no spark.

 

[Cantdog]

Congrats on your success. Fine looking saw.

I'm headed out to look at my first J-red this afternoon myself.....a 70E with no spark.

Pogo...there are 2 different 70Es...the early, (plastic cooling fan, module under flywheel and coil mounted in the recoil cover) and the late ( alum fan and cyl mounted coil just like the 49sp) There are not a lot of the later models around but quite a few of the early models around. If the one you're looking at is the early model chances are it's the SEM module under the flywheel that's quit but one thing to check and make sure of is the connection between the coil and module. In pic #068 and #101 note how the wire comes out of the module, snakes through a channel and out to a round deal in the case at 4:00...there is a corrisponding round deal in the recoil cover. Pic # 107 shows the round deal in the edge of the recoil cover at 8:00. These push/rub against each other and make the connection...dirt and wear can cause an open circuit here.....=no spark...good luck with the saw they are a powerful old unit. Pic #064 is a pic of the late model 70E.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Pogo...there are 2 different 70Es...the early, (plastic cooling fan, module under flywheel and coil mounted in the recoil cover) and the late ( alum fan and cyl mounted coil just like the 49sp) There are not a lot of the later models around but quite a few of the early models around. If the one you're looking at is the early model chances are it's the SEM module under the flywheel that's quit but one thing to check and make sure of is the connection between the coil and module. In pic #068 and #101 note how the wire comes out of the module, snakes through a channel and out to a round deal in the case at 4:00...there is a corrisponding round deal in the recoil cover. Pic # 107 shows the round deal in the edge of the recoil cover at 8:00. These push/rub against each other and make the connection...dirt and wear can cause an open circuit here.....=no spark...good luck with the saw they are a powerful old unit. Pic #064 is a pic of the late model 70E.

Awesome, Robin. Thank you. I did snag it and will keep a progress report going in my other thread as I get further into it.

 

[chrisford]

Awesome, Robin. Thank you. I did snag it and will keep a progress report going in my other thread as I get further into it.

Nice, I will be watching your thread and learning from your progress on the 70E. Got my eyes peeled for a 70E, they look like a sweet saw. The one in Cantdogs rebuild thread is factory perfect when he got done with it.

 

[dawzie]

I also have a 49 I bought new and now has no spark. I remember having problems with it a couple years after new. After taking flywheel off this week I see my dealer installed a Nova chip at 2 o'clock. I took the saw out of service about 10 years ago because it didn't want to keep running and my dealer is retired out of area.

Having found this great forum site and with intrest in getting my saw running again I found this thread. My saw has the stock points and condensor in place but the wires have been snipped off. What is the correct wiring ??

Am I correct to assume coil to condensor, kill switch to condensor, points to condensor ?

Another question, to remove the dust cover over the points, do I need to remove the key on the crank ?

Thanks in advance
Dawzie

 

[Cantdog]

I also have a 49 I bought new and now has no spark. I remember having problems with it a couple years after new. After taking flywheel off this week I see my dealer installed a Nova chip at 2 o'clock. I took the saw out of service about 10 years ago because it didn't want to keep running and my dealer is retired out of area.

Having found this great forum site and with intrest in getting my saw running again I found this thread. My saw has the stock points and condensor in place but the wires have been snipped off. What is the correct wiring ??

Am I correct to assume coil to condensor, kill switch to condensor, points to condensor ?

Another question, to remove the dust cover over the points, do I need to remove the key on the crank ?

Thanks in advance
Dawzie

Dawzie, using the site search engine, search "49SP and 70E Build From Scratch".........page 6...post #79 or #80 and onward deals with all this stuff...and practically everything about the construction/reconstruction of the 49sp. I did the thread for this exact reason....so that others might be able to have acess to somewhat hard to find info on these old saws. Good luck with your 49sp..I'm sure you'll have it running fine soon. Yes you do have to remove the key...a light tap with a small hammer and punch on one end should slide it right out of there....

 

[dawzie]

Well I read all of the posts in the other thread. Wow, very nice shop. If you think a two bay garage will be big enough for your saw shop, better make it a three bay at min. !! lol

Well, I had a chance to work on the 49sp today. Ommited the Nova2 and hooked the points back up. Wow, what a spark. I had taken the oil pump out and drained the oil. Wasn't bad at all in there. Reinstalled and filled 1/2 way with oil. Put some fresh fuel in it. BAM - fired up on fourth pull.

A couple of questions - What should carb settings be at to get started ? Is "L" low speed adjustment and "H" high speed ?

Where should the oil flow adjustment screw be set ? It's at two turns out and I have no oil flow :msp_sad:

thanks
dawzie

 

[dawzie]

Ok - took oil pump out - squarted some oil on everything inside and out - turned adjustment screw all the way out - reinstalled everything - started saw - now I have oil - saw not running right - worse after a minute or so.

Installed bar and chain - ran saw trying to adjust carb. Hi rpm's seem good with no load. Idle adjust screw not touching carb. Lo idle not good. After a minute or so wants to stall. Started at one turn out, tried adjusting 1/4 turn at a time in both directions, doesn't seem to help to keep it idleing, will make it run ok to worse.

The warmer the saw gets, the less it wants to idle. Tried cutting wood, would die under load, like running out of fuel, let idle and it would come back to life. Cut again, same thing. Hmmmmm, better check fuel filter.

Put tip of bar near cardboard to check oil supply. Very fine mist, not excessive at all. Very surprised being adjustment is full on I think.

Maybe need carb kit - any help on kit part number ?

 

[dawzie]

Have a RK HS21 kit coming. Fuel filter looked real good.

 

[PNW Sawduster]

i found a good 49sp points coil if you still need it

Tree Monkey, do you still have that 49SP points coil by any chance?

 

[KASH]

I have a 70e With bad SEM .When you guys pick up your 70es check the coil wire for continuity .Years ago when I was running 70s cut skid I had two with inner wire of spark plug wire broken>I had off on ignition problems on the 70 run good for days then ignition miss then good again. Finally the SEM quit the old Swede mechanic told me that most SEM failures were from this or bad electrical contact problems.There are lots of 70s in my area all with bad sem.
Kash