timberscribe
ArboristSite Lurker
Greetings to a great group of chainsaw experts!
I'm a small woodlot owner in SW Virginia and I've been getting useful chainsaw information from this site for a couple of years now. However, I'm having trouble diagnosing a problem with both my Husky saws and I thought it might be time for me to register and post a specific question.
Me:
--small woodlot owner
--firewood cutter
--small-time slabber (short boards for woodworking)
What I cut:
--4-5 cords firewood annually (usual Appalachian hardwoods)
--small amounts of slabbing (same wood types)
--annual brush cutting on property
--episodic blowdown cleanup
My saws:
Husky 55 Rancher (purchased new in 2004)
Husky 455 Rancher (received as gift, lightly used, ca. 2004-05)
Problem:
--clutch/clutch bearing failure (both saws, this year)
--clutch roller bearing fell apart, clutch broken at splines (both saws)
Question:
--what happened and why?
--how can I fix/prevent this?
Additional details:
Husky 55 Rancher
--bar: 18" Oregon PowerMatch (050)
--sprocket: Oregon PowerMate (7 tooth)
--chain: Woodland Pro 30RC (3/8" 68 drive links)
Husky 455 Rancher
--bar: 18" Oregon PowerMatch
--sprocket: Oregon PowerMate (7 tooth)
--chain: Woodland Pro 30RC (3/8" 68 drive links)
Summary: I purchased the 55 Rancher new in 2004, but spent a couple of seasons in frustration with the stock laminated bar and bent-raker (low kick) chain: despite my best efforts I could not get the chain to perform well, and I was meticulous in following the sharpening directions. I looked everywhere (including the purchasing dealer) for information about saw chain/sharpening, but found little useful advice. I was getting impression that most answers were driven by liability concerns ("oh, everyone should use only low-kickback chain") than real experience. This was of course before I knew about these forums. I grew up splitting wood but my dad always manned the chainsaw; this was my first foray into the chainsaw side of woodcutting myself. I chose the 55 Rancher because it was the brand/model used by another relative who loved it. I actually prefer it to the newer 455, though it's fine for most of my uses as well.
Everything changed when I consulted a popular logger supply house and spoke to an experienced tech. who recommended the above chain (and appropriate accompanying bar/sprockets). Suddenly I had a saw that cut like crazy, that sharpened amazingly well (I use the Husky Sharpforce combination file), and exhibited no more tendency to kickback than the chain it came equipped with. Plus the solid bar required much less frequent grinding/filing than the soft and flimsy laminated stock bar. I've been using the above-equipped Husky 55 with great success for the past 5-6 years. When I was given the lightly-used 455 a few years ago, at the suggestion of the same supply house I equipped it with the same cutting gear and have been running that as well for the past 3 years or so.
I'm pretty particular about taking care of all my tools, so I always use the correct oil/gas mix, good grade of B&C oil, new plugs every season, correct chain tension, frequent sharpening, clean air filters, etc. When I slab I go slow, rest the saw between cuts, and (with the 455) turn the oiler up to max. No problems.
Until this year: I set the 455 aside this spring when I noticed excessive slop in the clutch. Intending to return to fix that later, I just finished some cutting with my 55 Rancher and noted the same thing. Took both saws apart and found that in both cases the clutch roller bearing was in pieces and the splines were shorn off both clutches! Looked like overheating (lack of lubrication), but I wasn't sure. As I said, I always use decent B&C oil, always refill oil when I gas up, episodically confirm oiling by "spray testing" (holding tip of revved saw near wood to look for oil spray). Both saws have always needed oil when I gas up, though neither oil reservoir is usually totally empty--in other words, no obvious changes in B&C oiling.
I took the saws to a dealer, but I'm not getting answers that make sense. I can't tell if I'm gettting brushed off because I'm not using all-Husky stuff, or maybe because I haven't bought everything there--I don't know. I'm being told that the bearings likely failed because the chain wasn't getting enough oil (with the hint that this wouldn't have happened with all-Husky bar/chain/sprockets, or that I was using the incorrect chain, wrong sprocket, wasn't refilling the oil, etc.). I could see how lack of lubrication might have caused it, but how and why? Can't get an answer.
The 55's clutch drum was the original; I typically replace the sprocket at the mfger-recommended interval of every 2 chains. I typically use up one chain a season per saw. Now the 455 had a combined clutch/sprocket ("star-drive" unit) unit which I changed to the separate clutch/sprocket at the recommendation of the above supply house. I'm being told that the 455 requires that combined star-drive clutch/sprocket unit to correctly power the oil pump, and that this modification resulted in under-oiling leading to bearing failure. But my queries about how/how often to grease the clutch bearing (I grease it per owner's manual instructions, though it's not clear to me how the grease gets from the end of the shaft down into the bearing cage) got conflicting answers. And even if this modification did cause the problem, why did I have the same failure with the 55? No one can tell me.
I'm not criticizing anybody, I try to support both dealers and logging supply houses, but I'm really not sure how to proceed. I can just replace the drums and bearings, but if I've got an oiler problem it'll just happen again. I can allow the saw oilers to be replaced, but that might not even be the problem. The only other damage I can see is with the 455--that plastic pinion transferring power from the sprocket to the oil pump is boggered up with broken bearing parts. I've got a bit of bluing on the 55s bar and was told, "see, it isn't oiling," but the bluing is on the sprocket nose, which (according to the Oregon catalog) usually is caused by friction from a pinched sprocket. Just before the 55 quit I was chunking up a big, punky dead ornamental maple and the job did require some funky cuts. I could see how the tip might have pinched. Did some of the punk clog up the oiler and let the bearing overheat?
I apologize for this lengthy post, but I'm really unsure of what to do. Any insight into probable causes and best resolution of the problem would be greatly, greatly appreciated. From what I've read on this forum over the last couple of years, you guys have forgotten more about chainsaws than I'll ever know.
Thanking you in advance for your wisdom,
Timberscribe
I'm a small woodlot owner in SW Virginia and I've been getting useful chainsaw information from this site for a couple of years now. However, I'm having trouble diagnosing a problem with both my Husky saws and I thought it might be time for me to register and post a specific question.
Me:
--small woodlot owner
--firewood cutter
--small-time slabber (short boards for woodworking)
What I cut:
--4-5 cords firewood annually (usual Appalachian hardwoods)
--small amounts of slabbing (same wood types)
--annual brush cutting on property
--episodic blowdown cleanup
My saws:
Husky 55 Rancher (purchased new in 2004)
Husky 455 Rancher (received as gift, lightly used, ca. 2004-05)
Problem:
--clutch/clutch bearing failure (both saws, this year)
--clutch roller bearing fell apart, clutch broken at splines (both saws)
Question:
--what happened and why?
--how can I fix/prevent this?
Additional details:
Husky 55 Rancher
--bar: 18" Oregon PowerMatch (050)
--sprocket: Oregon PowerMate (7 tooth)
--chain: Woodland Pro 30RC (3/8" 68 drive links)
Husky 455 Rancher
--bar: 18" Oregon PowerMatch
--sprocket: Oregon PowerMate (7 tooth)
--chain: Woodland Pro 30RC (3/8" 68 drive links)
Summary: I purchased the 55 Rancher new in 2004, but spent a couple of seasons in frustration with the stock laminated bar and bent-raker (low kick) chain: despite my best efforts I could not get the chain to perform well, and I was meticulous in following the sharpening directions. I looked everywhere (including the purchasing dealer) for information about saw chain/sharpening, but found little useful advice. I was getting impression that most answers were driven by liability concerns ("oh, everyone should use only low-kickback chain") than real experience. This was of course before I knew about these forums. I grew up splitting wood but my dad always manned the chainsaw; this was my first foray into the chainsaw side of woodcutting myself. I chose the 55 Rancher because it was the brand/model used by another relative who loved it. I actually prefer it to the newer 455, though it's fine for most of my uses as well.
Everything changed when I consulted a popular logger supply house and spoke to an experienced tech. who recommended the above chain (and appropriate accompanying bar/sprockets). Suddenly I had a saw that cut like crazy, that sharpened amazingly well (I use the Husky Sharpforce combination file), and exhibited no more tendency to kickback than the chain it came equipped with. Plus the solid bar required much less frequent grinding/filing than the soft and flimsy laminated stock bar. I've been using the above-equipped Husky 55 with great success for the past 5-6 years. When I was given the lightly-used 455 a few years ago, at the suggestion of the same supply house I equipped it with the same cutting gear and have been running that as well for the past 3 years or so.
I'm pretty particular about taking care of all my tools, so I always use the correct oil/gas mix, good grade of B&C oil, new plugs every season, correct chain tension, frequent sharpening, clean air filters, etc. When I slab I go slow, rest the saw between cuts, and (with the 455) turn the oiler up to max. No problems.
Until this year: I set the 455 aside this spring when I noticed excessive slop in the clutch. Intending to return to fix that later, I just finished some cutting with my 55 Rancher and noted the same thing. Took both saws apart and found that in both cases the clutch roller bearing was in pieces and the splines were shorn off both clutches! Looked like overheating (lack of lubrication), but I wasn't sure. As I said, I always use decent B&C oil, always refill oil when I gas up, episodically confirm oiling by "spray testing" (holding tip of revved saw near wood to look for oil spray). Both saws have always needed oil when I gas up, though neither oil reservoir is usually totally empty--in other words, no obvious changes in B&C oiling.
I took the saws to a dealer, but I'm not getting answers that make sense. I can't tell if I'm gettting brushed off because I'm not using all-Husky stuff, or maybe because I haven't bought everything there--I don't know. I'm being told that the bearings likely failed because the chain wasn't getting enough oil (with the hint that this wouldn't have happened with all-Husky bar/chain/sprockets, or that I was using the incorrect chain, wrong sprocket, wasn't refilling the oil, etc.). I could see how lack of lubrication might have caused it, but how and why? Can't get an answer.
The 55's clutch drum was the original; I typically replace the sprocket at the mfger-recommended interval of every 2 chains. I typically use up one chain a season per saw. Now the 455 had a combined clutch/sprocket ("star-drive" unit) unit which I changed to the separate clutch/sprocket at the recommendation of the above supply house. I'm being told that the 455 requires that combined star-drive clutch/sprocket unit to correctly power the oil pump, and that this modification resulted in under-oiling leading to bearing failure. But my queries about how/how often to grease the clutch bearing (I grease it per owner's manual instructions, though it's not clear to me how the grease gets from the end of the shaft down into the bearing cage) got conflicting answers. And even if this modification did cause the problem, why did I have the same failure with the 55? No one can tell me.
I'm not criticizing anybody, I try to support both dealers and logging supply houses, but I'm really not sure how to proceed. I can just replace the drums and bearings, but if I've got an oiler problem it'll just happen again. I can allow the saw oilers to be replaced, but that might not even be the problem. The only other damage I can see is with the 455--that plastic pinion transferring power from the sprocket to the oil pump is boggered up with broken bearing parts. I've got a bit of bluing on the 55s bar and was told, "see, it isn't oiling," but the bluing is on the sprocket nose, which (according to the Oregon catalog) usually is caused by friction from a pinched sprocket. Just before the 55 quit I was chunking up a big, punky dead ornamental maple and the job did require some funky cuts. I could see how the tip might have pinched. Did some of the punk clog up the oiler and let the bearing overheat?
I apologize for this lengthy post, but I'm really unsure of what to do. Any insight into probable causes and best resolution of the problem would be greatly, greatly appreciated. From what I've read on this forum over the last couple of years, you guys have forgotten more about chainsaws than I'll ever know.
Thanking you in advance for your wisdom,
Timberscribe