Need engine troubleshooting help

[Mo. Jim]

I have never seen a L head engine with a mechanical compresson release,nor was it ever brought up in any Briggs school or seminar I attended. None of my old Briggs books show any either. Guys did turn the old Koler cast iron engines backward as they had a comp. release.

 

[MasterMech]

I have never seen a L head engine with a mechanical compresson release,nor was it ever brought up in any Briggs school or seminar I attended. None of my old Briggs books show any either. Guys did turn the old Koler cast iron engines backward as they had a comp. release.

Briggs used a small bump on the exhaust lobe as their compression release. When the engine is up to speed, it goes by too quick to matter.

If the engine says "easy spin" on it the. It has the bump. Pull the engine over real slow while holding your finger on the exhaust valve and somewhere on the compression stroke you should feel the bump.

 

[half_full]

I picked up a splitter with an 8 hp briggs on it. Got it cheap because the PO swapped the new coil design into it to eliminate the points. Ran for a bit then was hard to start. Then, no start but would fire. Ended up being the flywheel key. He didn't tighten the starter down enough to keep the flywheel from shearing the key.

I talked to a local small engine guy and he told me that there is a coil to replace yours that will eliminate the points. I seem to recall for about $20ish AND you have to use a different, harder key on the flywheel.

Anyway, new key in mine and away it went. Been running great for a few years.

 

[tallfarmboy]

A good upgrade would be to upgrade to a Solid State Ignition module... You can find them on ebay for pretty cheap. It really sounds like a coil or condenser to me. The tight valve lash would only make it lose power, not totally die.
My vote is ignition.
TFB

 

[kz1000]

Have you concidered upgrading to this model? It only quits when you do.:msp_rolleyes:

 

[fearofpavement]

Have you concidered upgrading to this model? It only quits when you do.:msp_rolleyes:

I've always split about 90% of my wood by hand and use the powered splitter for the nasty stuff that gets put to the side. However, as I'm getting older, I anticipate the percentage will be changing.

I actually am now pursuing another engine. If I can work the deal I should be able to get a newer engine (same size) for not too much coin. Should know in the next two days.

 

[half_full]

I actually am now pursuing another engine. If I can work the deal I should be able to get a newer engine (same size) for not too much coin. Should know in the next two days.

If you give up on your 8 hp, I could use a part or two...

Like you, I used to split most by hand. I go through about 15 face cord per year and had to start using the power splitter more.
Harder still was going from a compound bow to a crossbow.

 

[fearofpavement]

Problem resolved!

Well, after removing the engine to turn it upside down, I was able to get the exhaust valve keepers installed. Put the engine back on the unit and fired it up. Ran fine. For a while and then shut off. Grrr!

Ok, so I know the valve clearance wasn't the issue. By this time I am fed up with the thing so decide to just install the newly acquired generator engine. Pulling the engine off the generator is no easy feat as the generator portion has to be disassembled to get it off. Finally get it loose and to my dismay, it has a tapered shaft. So much for the parts breakdown which depicted a straight shaft. Double Rats!

So what to do? I figure that the problem MUST be ignition even though it shows spark since I know it isn't compression or fuel. I remove the coil from the splitter engine and attempt to rob a part off another engine but discover it won't work as the flywheels are different sizes. So I disassemble the taper shaft generator engine and took its coil and flywheel and install it onto the splitter. It works. Actually split some wood and ran the engine almost an hour with no shut downs.

So now I have a generator with a disassembled engine and generator head. Seems a shame for a couple parts. I may eventually revisit that but for now have a running splitter. Can't believe how much time was spent on this. Thanks for all the suggestions from ya'll.

 

[blsnelling]

I haven't had any help for you, but have been following along. Glad to hear you got it sorted out

 

[TreePointer]

Rep for sticking with it and finding a solution.

FWIW, my LawnBoy with a Tecumseh engine had the same symptoms and solution--replace the coil.

 

[LegDeLimber]

I'll spot a go-cart or some such on C'list occasionally, ad reads something like:
"runs good only needs a clutch"
or If they post a decent pic you may see the tapered crank
or you may see a engine decal related to having been a gen-set and know what's up.

I'm not aware of any generator engine (older stuff) that's not a tapered crank.

Wish I could spot a vertical aluminum 8 hp briggs (when actually I've got the $$ for it)
that's not been run low on oil or never had it changed, or without the air filter, etc.

 

[half_full]

do a google search for the magnatron conversion kit #398811. You can put the old flywheel back on your engine and the generator parts back in place.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Great job finding the issue. You went deeper than I ever have in a 4 cycle so I was watching closely. My son has a B&S snow blower with some issues and I was wondering if someone here would help me if I needed it. I guess so you may follow my post / folly in the future. Rep sent. Jeff

 

[Jeff Lary]

Great job finding the issue. You went deeper than I ever have in a 4 cycle so I was watching closely. My son has a B&S snow blower with some issues and I was wondering if someone here would help me if I needed it. I guess so you may follow my post / folly in the future. Rep sent. Jeff

Well I tried to rep ya but guess I have I the past already,..you must be impressive to me I guess, ha ha.