need help, husky 2100

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MOE

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My good running husky 2100 suddenly will not start. It will pop and backfire, yanking the pull rope out of my hand. The plug is wet. It has a new carb kit and has been run several times since, running good each time. any ideas?
 
OK, I finally made a flywhell puller and got the 2100 flywheel off. The key and keyways are tight. The flywheel was on the key. The ignition module seems tight ,(although I wouldn't know if the timing is off). should I put it back together?

By the way, The puller I made was pretty simple and worked great. IT was a 1/4" plate drilled to the flywheel pattern with a large hole in the center. I was able to put a two jaw puller through the hole and grabe the plate. I will try to post pics sometime.
 
It does seem like a timing problem, but it doesn't have to be. They're not easy to start without a decompression valve even when running well. If they get finicky at all, they are bound to kick you back after a dozen or so pulls. Have you checked your fuel filter and fuel lines? I'd change the plug on general principal. Try a teaspoon of fuel into the intake (hold the throttle open so the fuel gets into the cylinder.) If it starts and runs on that you more than likely have boiled it down to a fuel delivery problem. You say you did a carb kit.... go back through it and make sure things are tight.. no vac leaks.

Can you give us more information? Do you really mean backfire (like POW!) or did it just pop a bit? How long did it sit before it wouldn't start? Did you get any odd symptoms when you ran it last? When was the last time you pulled the muffler and had a peek in the cylinder?
 
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It does seem like a timing problem, but it doesn't have to be. They're not easy to start without a decompression valve even when running well. If they get finicky at all, they are bound to kick you back after a dozen or so pulls. Have you checked your fuel filter and fuel lines? I'd change the plug on general principal. Try a teaspoon of fuel into the intake (hold the throttle open so the fuel gets into the cylinder.) If it starts and runs on that you more than likely have boiled it down to a fuel delivery problem. You say you did a carb kit.... go back through it and make sure things are tight.. no vac leaks.

Can you give us more information? Do you really mean backfire (like POW!) or did it just pop a bit? How long did it sit before it wouldn't start? Did you get any odd symptoms when you ran it last? When was the last time you pulled the muffler and had a peek in the cylinder?

I don't think it's a fuel problem. I shot some fuel down the carb and it would only pop and backfire again. When I say backfire, I mean pull the starter rope out of my hand and make me swear as my fingers trob. I used it a number of times after the carb kit. It sarted, ran and idled great. It sat for a few weeks before this happened.
 
Mark TDC on the flywheel (stick a piston stop in the plug hole, rotate left then right. TDC is exactly in the middle of the left/right rotations); then use a timing light to see where it fires. Not sure of the 2100 timing but probably about 30 degrees BTDC.
 
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Mark TDC on the flywheel (stick a piston stop in the plug hole, rotate left then right. TDC is exactly in the middle of the left/right rotations); then use a timing light to see where it fires. Not sure of the 2100 timing but probably about 30 degrees BTDC.

Are you saying this to check for bad coil? how about just a static time method.

You Know mark tdc, use a spark tester, and turn the flywheel untill you see a spark.
 
Wait, wait wait
Your saying to pull start the saw because the coil wont fire untill it reads a certin rpm. Right
 
Mark TDC on the flywheel (stick a piston stop in the plug hole, rotate left then right. TDC is exactly in the middle of the left/right rotations); then use a timing light to see where it fires. Not sure of the 2100 timing but probably about 30 degrees BTDC.

I sure see why you fellas are steering this way, but if his flywheel is keyed correctly, what would be the matter and what would he do about it? Would a coil do this?
 
I had a bad coil on a 15hp Briggs mower engine, it backfired so hard it sheared the flywheel key.

Actually, it sheared 3 keys, I would crank, crank crank...Choke choke choke...BANG

Put in a new key..Choke Choke CRANK CRANK...BANG

Put on a new coil and it purred.
 
I sure see why you fellas are steering this way, but if his flywheel is keyed correctly, what would be the matter and what would he do about it? Would a coil do this?

Yes, your ignition module can fire at the wrong time if the trigger side is messed up. If it is, new module or flywheel time..

Another thing:
Moe: look carefully at the 4 magnets in the flywheel - make sure there are no cracks in any of them.
 
Hi - sounds like timing to me. Find someone with an emrie tester who knows how to use it, get them to give it a once over to eliminate electrical issues.

Im not sure about the crank on this model, but I have come across an older POS doing the same thing, with key and electrics all ok. Turns out the crank had slipped slightly where it was pressed together, putting the timing out. pi$$ed me off royally.

I can tell you that the keys on this model can look ok, feel tight, but can still need replacing. Save heartache and replace it anyway...

Good luck!
 
I took the ignition module off. It is a sealed unit with plug wire and a ground wire to the switch. There is no way to move the timeing on this. The flywheel keyway is tight. Do you think the ignition module is bad? I am thinking of putting it back together and trying to start it again. I will clean the screws and around the screw holes so incase it'a a bad ground. I hate spending over $100 on a new module unless I have to. Any thoughts?
 
If your magnets are not cracked, and you are getting spark in the wrong place, then yes, your module can be bad. Throw a timing light on it...
 

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