That is exactly what I was thinking. Hopefully @windthrown jumps in here, he is well acquainted with these saws. There where a staggering number of flywheel/coil options on the 064/066.
Need help identifying Stihl saw. Also it won't turn off.
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That is exactly what I was thinking. Hopefully @windthrown jumps in here, he is well acquainted with these saws. There where a staggering number of flywheel/coil options on the 064/066.
windthrown
361 Junkie
Someone summoned me here?
I had an early red light 066R but the clutch side bearing failed and I sold it for parts. Anyway, the real 'flaw' in the earlier 066 saws is the aluminum flywheel that is heavy, and which tend to wind up with too much inertia on the more powerful 066 compared to the earlier 064. The flywheels can literally spin themselves off (or snap off) if the saw bogs suddenly or they are brake stopped from WOT. For that reason later 066 and 660 flywheels were changed over to poly. For that reason they also added a limited coil on the early 066 to reduce the max RPM. To indicate when the coil was cutting out, they added the red diode and wiring as well. This was short lived, and they removed the LED pretty fast after the saw was introduced. The LED saws later became known as red light saws. Most of them, like mine, were upgraded with unlimited 'generic' coils that will run in most any pro saw with an AL flywheel from an 026 to a 064/066 (PN: 000 4000 1300) and the diodes were removed as those coils do not have the added wiring for them.
On this OP saw, the kill switch spade is empty, and as indicated in the picture in a later post above, the ground wire should be spliced to add the ground to the spade so the kill switch works. You can also run the diode ground wire to the spade and a wire from the spade to the yellow/green stripe coil wire. Either way will work. If the original coil is in the saw, the diode may still work at WOT, or it may be dead. Either the coil diode controller may die, or the diode itself can die in time. It is also common that the output from the early coils in these saws fade over time, and hence they are almost always upgraded with new coils. There were a series of coils for these saws, starting with the 064, and they were changed over time to be limited and run the diode, and then changed again to run with the poly flywheel. The coils were also changed along the way to change the timing advance curve, so in the end the series of coils was quite large. There were also different flywheels for the Arctic model and standard saws. Attached is the Stihl tech note for the 064 and 066 series of coils and matching flywheels. Note the 'splice-in' replacement coil for the red-light 066 listed in the drop-down flow chart, which is the 000 400 1300 coil. As far as I know, there was no red light 064, only the early 066.
I had an early red light 066R but the clutch side bearing failed and I sold it for parts. Anyway, the real 'flaw' in the earlier 066 saws is the aluminum flywheel that is heavy, and which tend to wind up with too much inertia on the more powerful 066 compared to the earlier 064. The flywheels can literally spin themselves off (or snap off) if the saw bogs suddenly or they are brake stopped from WOT. For that reason later 066 and 660 flywheels were changed over to poly. For that reason they also added a limited coil on the early 066 to reduce the max RPM. To indicate when the coil was cutting out, they added the red diode and wiring as well. This was short lived, and they removed the LED pretty fast after the saw was introduced. The LED saws later became known as red light saws. Most of them, like mine, were upgraded with unlimited 'generic' coils that will run in most any pro saw with an AL flywheel from an 026 to a 064/066 (PN: 000 4000 1300) and the diodes were removed as those coils do not have the added wiring for them.
On this OP saw, the kill switch spade is empty, and as indicated in the picture in a later post above, the ground wire should be spliced to add the ground to the spade so the kill switch works. You can also run the diode ground wire to the spade and a wire from the spade to the yellow/green stripe coil wire. Either way will work. If the original coil is in the saw, the diode may still work at WOT, or it may be dead. Either the coil diode controller may die, or the diode itself can die in time. It is also common that the output from the early coils in these saws fade over time, and hence they are almost always upgraded with new coils. There were a series of coils for these saws, starting with the 064, and they were changed over time to be limited and run the diode, and then changed again to run with the poly flywheel. The coils were also changed along the way to change the timing advance curve, so in the end the series of coils was quite large. There were also different flywheels for the Arctic model and standard saws. Attached is the Stihl tech note for the 064 and 066 series of coils and matching flywheels. Note the 'splice-in' replacement coil for the red-light 066 listed in the drop-down flow chart, which is the 000 400 1300 coil. As far as I know, there was no red light 064, only the early 066.
Nice. I'm still interested in the bore size on this particular saw. Just for my own curiosity.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I don't think you are wrong at all.
gunnusmc03
Addicted to ArboristSite
They made digital 064s with a rev limited coil, but they never had the red diode like the 066's.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Yes, that's the story the documents tell.
