Need help with stove pipe installation

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I don't normally visit this forum, so hopefully I'm not asking a redundant question. Every year, I start dreaming of having another wood burning stove. My main problem is not know how to run the stove pipe. I want this stove in my basement, under the master bedroom. I can't have a stove pipe running up through my bedroom, lol. Is it feasable to run it out through the basement wall at a 45°, then 45° is back up through the eave? For reference, the stoves I'm looking at are Vermont Castings Encore or Defiant. I don't care to discuss the model/brand of stove here, but how to run the pipe. Thanks!
 
The 45 out and 45 up approach should work as long as your local inspector is happy with it. Put a clean out below the 2nd 45.

BTW, I do run the chimney for the ground floor stove straight up through the second floor living room. It is single wall until it hits the attic so it radiates a useful amount of heat into living room.
 
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It is really hard to visualize what you are saying...The problems w/ 45° elbows are creosote and cleaning...If the stove is going to be on a wall, why can't you run double or triple wall through your bedroom and frame it in...
 
+1 for what Mtngun said. However, the 45º angle is not needed. I have a 90º T going through the wall at my place. A 90 allows you to cut a smaller hole through the wall and makes for an easier installation, cleaning, and maintenance. Definitely need a clean-out at the bottom of the chimney.

Be aware that external chimneys do not draft as well as inside chimneys, so you may experience smoke spillage when you open door. Also, you may experience down drafts when the stove is idle and when first starting it.
 
I put my furnace in the basement right under our bedroom. So I did a through the wall thimble which is a 90 deg. T. The bottom of the T is the clean out. The stove pipe to the thimble has 2- 45 deg fittings. I didn't want 2 - 90 deg. fitting. One was plenty.

Lowes sells the through the wall kit. Comes with the outside bracket to hold the entire chimney. Braces for the chimney on the side of the house. And the chimney cap. It's around $225..

Good luck Brad!
 
I put my furnace in the basement right under our bedroom. So I did a through the wall thimble which is a 90 deg. T. The bottom of the T is the clean out. The stove pipe to the thimble has 2- 45 deg fittings. I didn't want 2 - 90 deg. fitting. One was plenty.

Lowes sells the through the wall kit. Comes with the outside bracket to hold the entire chimney. Braces for the chimney on the side of the house. And the chimney cap. It's around $225..

Good luck Brad!

Thanks for the info!

Here's a pic borrowed from DocDryden.
woodstove1.jpg
 
Mine is a bit different. Instead of that 90 deg elbow. I have a 45 put right on the furnace. Then straight pipe to another 45 at the wall thimble.

He has the same thermometer on his pipe as mine too. FUnny
 
While you could come up with something custom I've never seen a thru the wall kit for a double 45 setup. That may not mean much, I've never really shopped for one. Using a 90 above the stove and going straight thru the wall with a "T" and support bracket on the outside is a more common way to go. No, its not the best for draft but can be assembled with inexpensive off the shelf parts and is a breeze to clean out. You'll have a "T" with the bottom capped just outside your wall. Pull the base cap off and sweep it. No mess in the house.
 
Is this the kit? LINK

Yes. That is the kit. You will need double wall pipe 3' sections. A roof boot to match the pitch of your roof and the outside diameter of the pipe. And then the stove pipe for in the basement. Some good caulking. And a little time. My dad and I installed my chimney in less than 4 hrs.
 
I paid 99 for every 3 feet at TSC but later found it for I think 80-90 for the
same brand at Home Depot. However, my through the roof kit was cheaper
at TSC than Home Depot so I wasn't too disappointed.

I had 45s in my old pipe and it sucked to clean. Now I'm straight up and out and I haven't cleaned this one yet but know it's going to be easier. It seems to draft much better and I seem to get longer burn times too.
 
I've been having the same idea about a stove in the basement. The main floor stove heats fine but it would be nice to have alittle extra. Imo any chimney run outside will not have nearly as good draft and collect more creosote being the cold surface temp. the extra bends sound like a pita to clean and will reduce draft even more. My idea was to utilize part of the closet corner,box around pipe, and place stove directly underneath.
 
I don't know if they have Menards in Ohio but if they do check their pricing. I found it to be much cheaper than the other big box stores.
 
Brad, the double wall insulated stainless is $10 per piece cheaper at menards. Its selkirk supervent, just bought some a month or so ago.
 
I paid $76 for a 3' section last yr. However the checkout gal didn't scan every box in the cart accidently. I didn't know this until we were in the parking lot and my wife said something. We got our chimney half off!
 
Brad said, "I don't care to discuss the model/brand of stove here, but how to run the pipe."
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However, the stove that you use to burn your wood also impacts the stove pipe installation, just as an engine might alter your chainsaw muffler mod.

Something to think about. (I burned a Defiant for 5 years back in the '70s. Whale of a stove--550 lb of fabulous cast iron.)
 
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The 45 out and 45 up approach should work as long as your local inspector is happy with it. Put a clean out below the 2nd 45.

BTW, I do run the chimney for the ground floor stove straight up through the second floor living room. It is single wall until it hits the attic so it radiates a useful amount of heat into living room.

Id like to see that.:)
 
I'm sorry you don't know how to run your pipe Brad. Sound like a personal problem to me though!!!!!:chainsaw:
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