Need help with stove pipe installation

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Brad said, "I don't care to discuss the model/brand of stove here, but how to run the pipe."
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However, the stove that you use to burn your wood also impacts the stove pipe installation, just as an engine might alter your chainsaw muffler mod.

Something to think about. (I burned a Defiant for 5 years back in the '70s. Whale of a stove--550 lb of fabulous cast iron.)

Well, I'm now seriously considering a furnace add on. I just wanted to keep this thread dedicated to the chimney pipe. Your point is true though.
 
Brad I think you need the Supervent 2100 for a wood stove.

I'd avoid the two forty fives and go with two nineties. Only one ninety would need to be of the insulated type. The one above the stove can be single wall. You should get plenty of draft with the length chimney you are talking about.

I believe that's what Lowes is selling here, LINK. Double wall is good enough?

Two 90° definately sounds much easier to maintane.
 
Check your local CL. This summer I put in a Class A chimney, and about a week after I installed it I searched CL and found guys selling sections of it. A buddy of mine started buying them up and put a chimney in his house for 1/2 the price of mine.
 
Brad the double wall is a Class A which is two layers of stainless pipe with insulation between them.
I am pretty sure the ratings will be the same.The supervent calls for bands at each joint. Makes for a pretty decent connection. I installed Shipper 50s using the stuff from Menards and it works excellent.
Skip the 45° stuff.. makes it a pain to clean.
 
Just a thought Brad, If you go with a furnace, you might need to go 8" instead of 6". Maybe most new ones use 6", I don't know. But, the old one we use is 8". There is quite a bit more $$ in SS 8 inch chimney.
Good luck, with whichever route ya take! You will love heating with wood!
Besides, it will give you even more oppertunitys to be running saws!!

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Brad, the double wall insulated stainless is $10 per piece cheaper at menards. Its selkirk supervent, just bought some a month or so ago.

x2

If it was me in your situation I would either look at a straight through the house flue and box it in the bedroom in a corner or along a wall. Or I would shoot out the side wall with 90's instead of 45's. As stated the 90's will offer better cleanability (is that a word?). But the ideal setup would be a straight run up through the interior of the home.
 
I just scored a deal. I bought five 3' sections and one 1' section of SuperPro 2100 class A for $150, used. I wonder if the SuperVent stuff from Lowes will connect to it? Both brands are from Selkirk. I'll need a through the wall kit to make it happen now. Do those come with the roof flange?
 
I just scored a deal. I bought five 3' sections and one 1' section of SuperPro 2100 class A for $150, used. I wonder if the SuperVent stuff from Lowes will connect to it? Both brands are from Selkirk. I'll need a through the wall kit to make it happen now. Do those come with the roof flange?


Brad: I hope you didn't open a can of worms! I did the same thing last yr. I bought some very nice used tripple wall pipe. With a through the ceiling thimble, attic box, and chimney cap. However I needed the through the wall thimble. I thought I could just go to my local hardware store and buy one. NOOOO. I got online and the place that manufactures it doesn't make that style anymore. So most brands make only one type of connector. Most are not the same and won't work. I ended up selling it to a friend that was installing a stove. And he was going through the ceiling and roof. Not the wall. Then I went to lowes and purchased everything.
 
The pipe vents straight out the basement wall, I had to lower the grade on the outside, so I can use the clean out. When I open the access cover on the underside of the pipe a lot of loose creosote falls out from the vertical pipe. I clean the horizontal pipe about every 5 weeks with a wire brush that I have modified with a garden hose. I use the brush on the horizontal pipe that goes thru the wall, I push and pull the brush back and forth from the outside until I think its clean then I vacuum the fallen creosote from the inside of the pipe from inside the stove, not sure how clean this gets the horizontal pipe but that’s the way I do it. I was thinking about putting a T pipe inside at the top 90° with a removable cover for easy cleanout but the salesman said that’s not recommend, ( not sure why ) I am open to any suggestions that might make it easer
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Is double wall sufficient? LINK Or do I need triple wall? LINK

The would realy depend on the building and fire codes in your area, the clearance to combustibles, and the type of wall you penetrating. As 5 minute phone call to your Fire Marshals office to ask some questions could save you money on extra walls you might not need. However the extra protection of the triple may be worth the money if you can afford to spend it.
 
Good job on the flexible brush. I did almost the same thing. I bought a roto-rooter type deal. Cut the end off and welded a wire brush to it. I can pull it in and out of the pipe going into the house now. Creasote just falls back into the furnace. This yr. I've had no problem though. Different furnace and it gets plenty hot. My stove pipe stays nice and clean. The double wall outside has stayed very nice too. I'm happy.:)
 
I'll be going through a poured concrete wall, and up a bricked exterior wall. What is used to surround the hole where I go through the soffit?


You cut the soffit to fit around the outside of the pipe and put the soffit back when done installing the the chimney. On the roof you will need the boot. Either aluminum or galvanized boot.
 
If it was me.. I would project the horizontal out past the roof/gutterline No sense in making unnecessary roof penetrations. You going up by the gable end? Or is it a hip roof and you will be going past the gutter?
Post us up some photos of where you are planning on poking through the wall.
 
Attempted derail of thread!:)

Consider a free standing wood stove on the first floor. No power required and it's something the family can gather around, enjoy the view and have a real hot spot in the house for warming up. Great for when the power is down. A really good way to shave some real cost off of your main source of heat.

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Dan, I still get red Xs with your Pics, but the URL works. I have no idea what is causing this but here's your Pic, screen captured and saved on my Photobucket album:
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Nice looking fire that is warming up my bones just staring at it.
 
It would not accomplish my goal of elimiating the pellet stove. I would still be left with having to run a stove in the basement. That's where I spend most of my time, since that's where my desk is. Plus, Lisa does not want a stove on the main floor.
 
It would not accomplish my goal of elimiating the pellet stove. I would still be left with having to run a stove in the basement. That's where I spend most of my time, since that's where my desk is. Plus, Lisa does not want a stove on the main floor.

Now we know who wears the pants in your house...LOL
 
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