need lightweight stihl

[waumpuscat]

New to the forums and thought I would try to get caught up on what is currently available. I need a 40cc type saw for limbing and smaller work. I have tried to find out what is currently available in the commercial pro type equipment from stihl but have not been impressed with the consumer grade stuff. I ran a MS180 for less than a year before the piston head gave out. I need a small rear handle saw that can be worked pretty hard. All comments and suggestions are appreciated.

 

[waumpuscat]

after reading for hours, it appears that the 260 is the next size up from the 200 in pro type saws. Am I missing anything as far as saws that can stand up to everyday work?

 

[josh1981]

Stihl ms250 is a good saw. 260 pro is good. new 261 is good from stihl.

I have a MS211 STIHL now 35cc 16 B/C only 3 cuts so far to test it out buy very impressed with the power it has. Gutsy little saw

 

[waumpuscat]

Is there a place online to shop and buy? I have not been able to see any of the "1" series saws. Are they expected to be of better quality than "occasional use" saws?

 

[blsnelling]

Check out Redmax for smaller homeowner saws.

 

[bobt]

You are right that besides the MS200, the next pro saw is the MS261. However the MS211 may be worth looking into. It is a clamshell design, but from what I have heard here, there are those who can't break them even under heavy use and abuse. I don't own one, but it is an option to consider, at an affordable price.

Bob

 

[indiansprings]

The 261 just replace the 260, I've run saws for 35 years and it is the best 50cc saw on the market today imho. It is extremely smooth, has the best air filtration you will find on a saw and is a fuel sipper. The bar nuts are captive where they won't come off, you'll never lose one again. It outperforms any saw it size on the market.
I use them in a commercial setting and this saw has impressed me more than any saw I've owned which has been a bunch of them. If it is too much saw, you should look at a 211, although a homeowner saw, it gets rave reviews on here for a occasional use/limb saw. You'll look high and low before you find one better than the 261 though.

 

[RiverRat2]

Is there a place online to shop and buy? I have not been able to see any of the "1" series saws. Are they expected to be of better quality than "occasional use" saws?

You can reserve a Stihl online through the Stilusa website @ the dealer of your choice,,,

But ya gotta go there in person,,, to get it, basically no online sales

The MS200 is a lightweight rearhandle that is supposed to be a lill gutsy!!!

 

[waumpuscat]

I appreciate the suggestion but I am running from the homeowner stuff. I ran a MS180 harder than it was able to take and frankly that was not very hard. I knew I was compromising when I bought it but gave it a try anyway. I may have to go with a larger saw but if could find a quality lightweight saw in the 40 cc area I would be interested. Sounds like if I want to stay with Stihl that I will have to go to a 260 or larger to stay in the Pro series. Just trying to find out if anyone had enough experience with the smaller saws to know if there was a model unlike the MS180(which ran great when it was running)that can stand up to everyday type work.

 

[stubnail67]

211

ive got an older 021 and its been real good and real depedable since 1997 so i bet the 211 will do ya right!ive heard alot of good stuff about it they say its smoother then the older 021 or the 210 i have not used a 211 myself yet aint killed my 021 yet LOL

 

[Nemus Talea]

Hmmm... a lightweight Stihl that can be "worked pretty hard"... how about an 880 with a bar nut removed?

No, really... +1 on a 260.

 

[waumpuscat]

Much appreciated guys, this is really a big help and exactly the kinda feedback I had hoped to get. I am real tempted on the rear handle 200 but man is that sucker expensive. I will be looking harder at the 211 and real hard at moving on up to the 261. Now if I can get my 032 and Husky 55 back up and going I will be happy.

 

[Nemus Talea]

What is ailing the 55? A healthy 55 with a 16" B/C would be kinda close to a 260. (My 55 still goes into the tree with me. - its in my avatar- I've been saying i will get a 346 or 260 when it gives up the ghost. It must have heard me.)

Commercial grade 40cc - By weight, power, and construction the Redmax is the only choice, right?

 

[josh1981]

I am glad to help. good luck on decision.

 

[waumpuscat]

I dropped the 55 off at the shop and I fear that it will be a ring, cylinder issue. I am pretty sure that the compression is way down and it would not even crank. After reading all of this forum I may give it a try myself. I guess it depends on what the shop's estimate is to get that saw back up to original specifications.

 

[striperswaper]

I know its the wrong color but for the money you should look at the EFCO MT4000-39cc and 147 45cc
check them out @ their web site or @ Bailey's

 

[theoctagon]

I wouldnt count out the dolmar 420 either. That is a pro grade saw 42cc. Mag case and all.

 

[zogger]

I dropped the 55 off at the shop and I fear that it will be a ring, cylinder issue. I am pretty sure that the compression is way down and it would not even crank. After reading all of this forum I may give it a try myself. I guess it depends on what the shop's estimate is to get that saw back up to original specifications.

If they use Husky OEM piston and cylinder, plus their labor, forget it, it will be way high. At most, pay for an analysis, get the quote, then take it home and fix it. Clean the carb or kit it, check the seals and carb boot, etc. Do it yourself with after market stuff and read here how to do it. What you would pay for a one time repair at the dealers will buy you the tools to do a *lot* of repairs.
I have the same saw, took it in, gagged at the quote for a fixit/rebuild (not too far off from just buying a new saw), and started hanging around here...what a difference do it yourself is.

I'm just getting started on fixing saws and already I can skip paying for shop work, mostly from just reading here. Of course I have been working on mowers some before, but still...the wealth of knowledge here is great. I figure just from this site it has offset my internet bill for some months already in savings, and it kicked me into scrounging junker saws, now I got a pile and am happy working on them.

 

[waumpuscat]

zogger, just got back from the shop:msp_w00t:$400 estimate on the 55. They said it needs a new small block and the engine is shot. said it would be two hours labor ($135)if I want to try and get the parts, they would be happy just to do the labor, whatever I wanted to do. Sad thing is this is a saw with little run time on it and it seems just ran real lean for some reason. I would love to get this saw back up and running, but not for the $400 estimate from the shop. Anybody want to provide direction on this one, please chime in. woops! guess I should start another thread

 

[zogger]

muffler bolts

zogger, just got back from the shop:msp_w00t:$400 estimate on the 55. They said it needs a new small block and the engine is shot. said it would be two hours labor ($135)if I want to try and get the parts, they would be happy just to do the labor, whatever I wanted to do. Sad thing is this is a saw with little run time on it and it seems just ran real lean for some reason. I would love to get this saw back up and running, but not for the $400 estimate from the shop. Anybody want to provide direction on this one, please chime in. woops! guess I should start another thread

Lost a muffler bolt and the other was loose, that is what killed mine, along with not shutting it off quick enough when it got hot. (In my defense I was wearing leather gloves and didn't notice it right away). For real, trashed the piston. I've got it clean and sitting in a box now, when I get my tax check back I'll buy an aftermarket piston and put it back together after cleaning the cylinder, might as well hit the carb as long as I am there and check the fuel lines closer.

Search the threads here on howtos of using muriatic acid to clean aluminum transfer off of cylinders (if the cylinder isn't all scratched up/scored, if so, get the whole piston and cylinder kit).

Just ain't nothing to taking them apart that far, a set of T handle metric allens.

CLEAN SAW FIRST WITH AIR COMPRESSOR and rags and toothbrushes and so on before starting to take it apart, and once the carb and muffler are off, then you slide the cylinder off, etc, use rags to keep dirt from falling down into the crankcase.

Now if your whole bottom end is trashed (see, I don't know what the dealer guys mean when they say "shot"), and needs a new crank and bearings and seals, etc..heck with it, keep it for a parts saw and move on. If/when sometime you run across another one free or cheap, perhaps make one good runner. All the plastic body parts and the chainbrake assembly and all that, the muffler, etc is still good, proly also the carb..worth keeping. And you'll have an extra bar for a similar saw to boot.

You can get good running husky refurbs for around 200-250 bucks, and some of the guys here are having good luck talking them down at tractor supply with turn-ins..

And now you know all I know about husky 55 ranchers. Like I said, I am REAL new to all of this myself. This one worked fine for years and I used it a lot (with the stock carb settings as well) and cut some mambo stuff with it. My fault I missed the bolts going loose, else I bet it would still be cutting.