Need some help with a freebie C-72

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dbe

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Hey everybody, I was given a C-72 the other day. It runs fine but the sprocket has been chewed down to almost nothing. Has a 32" Homelite bar with no chain. I'm not sure if it's the right bar for .404 chain from searching around here and looking at Oregon's site. According to Acres' site, it should use the 52C drive link, but it's out of production. Oregon lists a replacement for the 52AL and 52AJ, but they do not list the 52C. I sent them an email about it last Friday but have not heard anything.

I pulled the muffler off, to find that the PO had shimmed out the muffler halves and baffler plate with a bunch of old nuts stacked up together. They do what they're supposed to, so I left them there for now. Piston looks good, no scuffs on exhaust side, but just a big brown patch at the ports when at TDC. Pretty dang clean under the airfilter, manual oiler works too. Has good spark, starts easy, rev's fine. Just need to get the chain deal straightened out. The reason I'm skeptical about the bar is what I found stamped on it. Only numbers I can find are

072 HOMELITE
GW 30001-F5
MADE IN USA

I have some cell phone pics that I'll have to get uploaded off the phone. The sprocket looks to have never been changed, it's worn down enough that the entire drive dog and tie straps on the side of the chain are cut into the sprocket arms, almost down to the hub.

I would imagine that there may be something up with the clutch, the sprocket spins all the time, unless it's only because of not having a chain on the bar to keep it from spinning at idle. I pulled that sprocket off, but could not find any part number stamped on it anywhere.

Thanks for any info you can give me, in advance.

Brent
 
Last edited:
........... According to Acres' site, it should use the 52C drive link, but it's out of production. Oregon lists a replacement for the 52AL and 52AJ, but they do not list the 52C. ........................

072 HOMELITE
GW 30001-F5
MADE IN USA

.

Brent

The chain is all .404 so that is no problem. Is the bar a hard nose or sprocket?

Bill
 
Alright, thanks Ray. You wouldn't happen to know how many drive links a 32" bar would use on that .404 chain, would ya?
 
Thanks. I've been all over your site, pricing pieces and parts from the IPL I downloaded.

I'll take your word on the bar length. How did Homelite measure, or anyone measure bar length anyways? I didn't take the bar off, but kinda eyeballed the end of the bar behind the studs and stretched it to the nose and it measured almost 32", unless my short-term memory is just that bad. Which is entirely possible.......:dizzy:
 
Well, the first 2 digits of that bar number indicate the length. (30). However, my book lists the actual cutting capacity of the C72 with a 30" bar at 28".
 
Hmmmmmm. .050 gage, won't run that .404. I've read the searched threads here about no one making a bar for that particular mount anymore, so I guess I'll have to work up a bar to fit close to right to run the heavier chain. At least I have a good template. Although I have seen the GB drum sets to run a .375 rim, that would fit that .050 bar. Decisions, decisions
 
The C-72, and all the C- models, just take a big mount Homelite bar, the same as the 450, 550, 750 and a whole bunch of others. You can get a 20 inch Forester (Chinese) B&C on line for under $50, shipped. I just got one for mine, and it seems to balance nicely.

If you want a better bar, check with Bailey's, I'm sure that they could fix you up with the "correct" bar and chain. If you cana find a sprocket, you'll have it made.
 
Hello, The C-series are not the same bar as the 550,750, SXL. The C-series, 1000, 2000, 2100, and Zips among others, take the old F014 Oregon bar. The tail is wider and the oil hole is in a different spot.

The bar mount is the F5, I think that is for the 550 750 series. You should probably need a different bar to start with.

Jonathan
 
chain saw lady

Hey everybody, I was given a C-72 the other day. It runs fine but the sprocket has been chewed down to almost nothing. Has a 32" Homelite bar with no chain. I'm not sure if it's the right bar for .404 chain from searching around here and looking at Oregon's site. According to Acres' site, it should use the 52C drive link, but it's out of production. Oregon lists a replacement for the 52AL and 52AJ, but they do not list the 52C. I sent them an email about it last Friday but have not heard anything.

I pulled the muffler off, to find that the PO had shimmed out the muffler halves and baffler plate with a bunch of old nuts stacked up together. They do what they're supposed to, so I left them there for now. Piston looks good, no scuffs on exhaust side, but just a big brown patch at the ports when at TDC. Pretty dang clean under the airfilter, manual oiler works too. Has good spark, starts easy, rev's fine. Just need to get the chain deal straightened out. The reason I'm skeptical about the bar is what I found stamped on it. Only numbers I can find are

072 HOMELITE
GW 30001-F5
MADE IN USA

I have some cell phone pics that I'll have to get uploaded off the phone. The sprocket looks to have never been changed, it's worn down enough that the entire drive dog and tie straps on the side of the chain are cut into the sprocket arms, almost down to the hub.

I would imagine that there may be something up with the clutch, the sprocket spins all the time, unless it's only because of not having a chain on the bar to keep it from spinning at idle. I pulled that sprocket off, but could not find any part number stamped on it anywhere.

Thanks for any info you can give me, in advance.

Brent

I have a Perma-tip GW-30003-1 bar 30" .063 that fits your C-72. I also have 8 GW-19003-a bar (19") for the older Homelites.
chainsawlady
 
rollin this one back up with an update.

Saw started fallin on it's face shortly after starting. Pulled the carb to go through it. All the guts looked OK, nothing hard or brittle. Took the muffler back off, and slowly watched the compression stroke. Bubbles started coming back from under the rings at TDC, so I pulled the cylinder to find the top ring had split in half. Ordered and installed new rings, and a new fuel line from tank to carb. Fired up right away but now it's pumpin fuel out the exhaust BAD, and floods out.

Bigger problem now: after I got the carb back on and everything put back together, I started it without the sprocket on the clutch. :bang: Bad idea. Clutch spider frag'd. Now I have to find a clutch and figure out what I did to the carb. Then, I'll get around to that bar.....:dizzy:
 
rollin this one back up with an update.

Saw started fallin on it's face shortly after starting. Pulled the carb to go through it. All the guts looked OK, nothing hard or brittle. Took the muffler back off, and slowly watched the compression stroke. Bubbles started coming back from under the rings at TDC, so I pulled the cylinder to find the top ring had split in half. Ordered and installed new rings, and a new fuel line from tank to carb. Fired up right away but now it's pumpin fuel out the exhaust BAD, and floods out.

Bigger problem now: after I got the carb back on and everything put back together, I started it without the sprocket on the clutch. :bang: Bad idea. Clutch spider frag'd. Now I have to find a clutch and figure out what I did to the carb. Then, I'll get around to that bar.....:dizzy:

The carb prolly just needs to be rebuilt... or its tuned really rich... the saw is flooding if there is raw fuel coming out the exhaust.

Gary
 
It's gonna need a rebuild then, i've turned the L screw in to .5 turn off the seat and it still floods out/refuses to idle.
 

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