Need Suggestions on a new Saw

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MS 260 Pro

For a homeowner who cuts his own firewood a 260 pro does the job just fine for me. I have no problem with a 12" tree. I cut down and cut up a 20" elm last spring.

If I were cutting 18" or larger trees I might consider a larger saw. And if I were cutting often and the trees were large I would probably get and Stihl 361/362.

Nosmo
 
That is a very generous offer. I am 1 1/2 hour away and might take you up on that offer if I cannot afford or find one I like.

The whole story is that my 026 was used when I bought it. It has run great for many years but last summer as I cut up 8 1/2 cords of wood, it kept bogging down due to a clogging air filter. The filter was getting wet with a little engine oil. I was told that this means it needs to be reringed. Dont know how much this would cost though and I will be doing a load of logs every year so I thought that something bigger might be the ticket.

Should the 026 be OK for a load of logs a year if I am running it hard, trying to get done in a couple of days?

Just FYI, if you look in the trading post, a fellow member here on AS (bcorrardi, I believe. I may have spelled that wrong) is selling some OEM piston and cylinder kits for your 026. I purchased just a piston from him last year, and he may have some of those available as well. If you do happen to have a bad jug/piston, you can buy one from him for very little cost to get yourself back up and running.

And in regards to your new saw question, Im working my way through a truckload of logs myself with my used 026, and since Im not really in any rush I dont think Ill have any problems with it. I have a 17" bar on it from when Baileys was running a special deal on them last year, and its cut through everything I have needed it to so far with no complaints!

Also, Baileys is running a deal with a bunch of instant rebates right now on the Makita/Dolmar saws. You should take a look at the DCS-6401.
 
I have to chime in with my opinion, since I have recently pruchased a saw in the range you are looking at. I picked up a home depot makita 6401 rental that was gently (surprisingly) used. For $250 out the door, I have a 64 cc saw that can be upgraded to 79 cc. It is really hard to beat that deal, as a comparable stihl, used, would still be more money. Check your local HD rental centers for availability. You may need to be both patient and persistent, as well as lucky and willing to drive a little to pick one up. Others here have gotten better deals than I did, and I am still happy with what I got. Home Depot also sells these saws new, as does Bailey's. Bailey's has as good of a price on them as you will find new, and they are a site sponsor, so I'd go with them, if I were buying new. Good luck with your search.
 
That is a very generous offer. I am 1 1/2 hour away and might take you up on that offer if I cannot afford or find one I like.

The whole story is that my 026 was used when I bought it. It has run great for many years but last summer as I cut up 8 1/2 cords of wood, it kept bogging down due to a clogging air filter. The filter was getting wet with a little engine oil. I was told that this means it needs to be reringed. Dont know how much this would cost though and I will be doing a load of logs every year so I thought that something bigger might be the ticket.

Should the 026 be OK for a load of logs a year if I am running it hard, trying to get done in a couple of days?

The 026 is a pro saw, it's designed to run all day. The 260 or 361, 362 are perfect for cutting up logs. My buddy uses an 025 to cut his log pile every year and still has the same saw, at least 15 years old now.

The size of the logs plays a factor, the 026 is best with a 16" bar and with the 361 you can go with a 20" bar.
 
Just FYI, if you look in the trading post, a fellow member here on AS (bcorrardi, I believe. I may have spelled that wrong) is selling some OEM piston and cylinder kits for your 026. I purchased just a piston from him last year, and he may have some of those available as well. If you do happen to have a bad jug/piston, you can buy one from him for very little cost to get yourself back up and running.

And in regards to your new saw question, Im working my way through a truckload of logs myself with my used 026, and since Im not really in any rush I dont think Ill have any problems with it. I have a 17" bar on it from when Baileys was running a special deal on them last year, and its cut through everything I have needed it to so far with no complaints!

Also, Baileys is running a deal with a bunch of instant rebates right now on the Makita/Dolmar saws. You should take a look at the DCS-6401.

Would a piston and cylinder kit solve my problem? Even though we dont really know what my problem of and oily air filter is def caused by? If so I would do it!!! I tried searching the name but no luck!
 
Check the compression before you buy any parts. It might just need a new piston and rings and be good to go again. Have you looked in the cylinder to see what it looks like?
 
Check the compression before you buy any parts. It might just need a new piston and rings and be good to go again. Have you looked in the cylinder to see what it looks like?

Nope, havent done a thing. I work on cars, diesels, but have never torn apart the saw. I do most of my work with the direction of others so if you or anyone can offer direction, I will check the compression and take a look at the cylinder and take some pics!!
 
All you need is a compression tester with a shrader valve in the end of it. I got one from sears or advance, I can't remember. It is an actron brand. All you have to do is pull the plug and screw it in and pull till the needle quits moving. If everything is good it should be over 130 lbs. You can pull the plug and shine a light down into the cylinder and see the exhaust side cylinder wall. If it has streaks then pull the muffler and see what the piston looks like.
 
The 026 is a great saw and more than capable to handle a 10 cords of wood a year. A great saw to learn what a professional saw is all about.

First thing I would do is make sure the saw is tuned in. Set to factory setting, adjust from there.
Second is learn to sharpen the chain and rakers. A sharp chain makes all the difference in cutting time no matter what size saw you have.
Its the fine dust (dull chain is the biggest culprit) that clogs the filters, keep it clean. I use compressed air to blow the filter, split the filter and blow from the inside out.
Make sure the spark screen is clean of carbon buildup in the muffler.

Before I went with a Dolmar 7900 my original 026 was the saw for all, wood as big as the 16" bar could handle (cutting rounds 24"+). The 026 is such a great saw I grabbed a second one. If all the cutting I did was just for my home firewood uses I would never bought a larger saw. The Dolmar is on schedule to cut well over 100 cords again this year besides its other tasks (felling, bucking, & some future milling).

You stick around here and the boys will have infected the CAD virus on you and the garage will be filled with a various assortment of saws :bang:. I just gave away all the polans (homeowner saws) to friends and family members who could use them. I have two EagerBeaver 2.0 t handles both need work, that are about to get the boot. Then I will be back to a manageable stable again.
 
The 026 is a great saw and more than capable to handle a 10 cords of wood a year. A great saw to learn what a professional saw is all about.

First thing I would do is make sure the saw is tuned in. Set to factory setting, adjust from there.
Second is learn to sharpen the chain and rakers. A sharp chain makes all the difference in cutting time no matter what size saw you have.
Its the fine dust (dull chain is the biggest culprit) that clogs the filters, keep it clean. I use compressed air to blow the filter, split the filter and blow from the inside out.
Make sure the spark screen is clean of carbon buildup in the muffler.

Before I went with a Dolmar 7900 my original 026 was the saw for all, wood as big as the 16" bar could handle (cutting rounds 24"+). The 026 is such a great saw I grabbed a second one. If all the cutting I did was just for my home firewood uses I would never bought a larger saw. The Dolmar is on schedule to cut well over 100 cords again this year besides its other tasks (felling, bucking, & some future milling).

You stick around here and the boys will have infected the CAD virus on you and the garage will be filled with a various assortment of saws :bang:. I just gave away all the polans (homeowner saws) to friends and family members who could use them. I have two EagerBeaver 2.0 t handles both need work, that are about to get the boot. Then I will be back to a manageable stable again.

Mind walking me through a tune?
 
Some of the more serious saw guys can walk you through a whole 026 teardown/rebuild blindfolded. They're a good saw and usually worth fixing up.

I have a pair of Dolmars, a 5100 (about the same ccs as a 026) and a 7300 (73cc, about the same as a 441 Stihl). We were working on bucking truckloads of oak today, up to about 20", but average 12". If I had to choose one saw for this, I'd be grabbing the 5100, much lighter after a while of running, and on smaller stuff just as fast as the big guys. Since I have both, they both got a couple tanks through em though. Freshen that 026, and it'll keep you happy, but if you want a new one, I'd recommend the 6400 Dolmar or it's blue twin brother, the Makita 6401, they're the same saw under the paint. Like others have mentioned, it can be upgraded if you want to get power hungry down the road, and the anti vibration (on both my Dolmars) is miles ahead of what Stihl has on most of their saws.
 
well I opened it up, spark plug and muffler cover that is. For what I know they looked fine. I didnt see any streaks from the plug side but that is a small whole. from the muffler cover, I moved the piston up and down and it looked good. top of it seemed a little black but hard to tell from my angle.
does this tell me anything?
 
All of that sounds normal and good. Just check the compression and make sure the rings aren't worn. If it pulls over 130-140 It might be the carb or fuel filter or something of that nature.
 
so I will get a compression tool in the next couple of days and check it. where is the fuel filter on this bad boy? is there one besides the screen on the end of the pickup tube?
 
Dude, if your a causal user, try an efco 60cc Italian jobby of a saw. They have a 2 year warranty and are cheap.
 
I'm partial to the mid 60 cc saws for firewood duty. I grew up running a pair of 365 huskys. Since then I moved on to a 6401, 036, ms361 and ms 360. I love my modded ms 360 the best with an 18" bar it light enough to swing around all day on the wood pile and not get too tiring.

I would keep the 026, maybe drop it off at a stihl dealer and have the fuel filter changed and carb rebuilt.

Keep that for the smaller stuff and use the 361/362/036 for the bigger stuff or look for a used 044/440.

The ms 440 is still my all time favorite saw. Doesn't weigh much more than a 361 and has more grunt to pull a long bar if needed
 
If you do a search on Piston toast : http://www.arboristsite.com/search.php?searchid=3503555

Their is an thread on an 026 : http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=122366&highlight=Piston+toast

JamesJems has a pic of a really toasted 260, you want to make sure there ar no scratches or scuffs on the walls as your looking. Depending on how deep mechanically you want to get into your saw, some will have you taking it down to spit shined pieces if you choose.

Factory setting are one full rotation out for the carb adjustments, and adjust from there (a local dealer will walk you through hands on and your saw will be tuned, a tip is always a nice thank you).

Do a search on what ever questions you have here there is a tone of information. If you have any further questions on adjusting the carb post your questions or concerns on the chainsaw form, someone will keep you informed. Have broad shoulders, some are heavy on teaching, you might need a pry-bar for them to open up and share their own knowledge...
 
just got off of the phone with my local repair guy, he says he is pretty sure it needs rings but would have to look at it to be sure. Says like $85 to do the rings and another $10 or so for some seals. What do you guys think?
 
just got off of the phone with my local repair guy, he says he is pretty sure it needs rings but would have to look at it to be sure. Says like $85 to do the rings and another $10 or so for some seals. What do you guys think?

As others have said, I would try and nab a compression tester and check it yourself first before you plunk down that kind of money for rings. I picked one up off of eBay pretty cheap, but they arent too expensive usually.

Here is a link to the sales from the Arboristsite member I mentioned earlier in the thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/pp-classifieds/showcat.php?cat=500&ppuser=4126

My thought would be to get the tester, and if it is rings, then go ahead and see if he has some parts for you that may work. If you pull the muffler and the spark plug and shine some light in there and dont see any scoring or damage, you shouldnt need the piston assembly. Then again, its only $25 for it all, if you needed it. (assuming there is still one for sale from that link) Plenty of folks can send you the service manuals for the 026, and with the investment of a few gaskets and a long handled star wrench, you can get to know your saw pretty well and save some money.

I would be depending on where you are in NY, someone would probably work on it with you on the weekend for a case of beverages and the conversation. Since it sounds like you are mechanically handy, it shouldnt be anything you cant handle. Just smaller scale.

Then again, if its not the rings, someone can also take you through what is going on there. And just a crazy thought, but could your air filter be clogging because you have a physical leak on your fuel line or gas cap thats saturating the filter? I would think if your saw is running, its going to want to suck the oil past the filter, not push it back out through the carb....
 
well took it to my local garage today to have them compression test it and the guy pulled the cord once and said that there was plenty of compression. Didnt want to test it.

He also said that a 2 stroke will always push a little fuel/oil backwards????

Maybe it is my imagination and a crappy dull chain that is causing too much small dust to clog the filter?

I have also had a starting issue ever since my bro borrowed it, I have to hold the throttle while starting when cold, the choke switch doesnt do it. It looks as though a little piece of plastic is broken off of the orange plastic choke bar on the left hand side of the bar if holding the saw. Should there be a little lever on that side like the one on the air filter side?

If so this must be a dealer part right?
 

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