Need to sharpen my own chains!

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ffwilliam

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I have a Stihl 310. I have an 18 inch bar and a 24 inch bar. Both use the 3/8 chain. What size file or dremel bit is best for this chain. Is there a specific Stihl kit for this or regular old Home Depot round file OK? Thanks.
 
Just posted about this in another thread Stihl filing kit part #5005 007 1029

Or one of the Valorbe kit’s from Amiks (a site sponsor at the top of the page)

Heres a video to help get you started


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Just posted about this in another thread Stihl filing kit part #5005 007 1029

Or one of the Valorbe kit’s from Amiks (a site sponsor at the top of the page)

Heres a video to help get you started


<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/_Lj3fNRdjvw&hl=en"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_Lj3fNRdjvw&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Thats to much work
 
I have a Stihl 310. I have an 18 inch bar and a 24 inch bar. Both use the 3/8 chain. What size file or dremel bit is best for this chain. Is there a specific Stihl kit for this or regular old Home Depot round file OK? Thanks.

I would suggest one of the clamp-on bar jigs to start. These hold the file to specific angles, and will provide pretty good results. You can get these for $25 or so including a file.

After you've done this a few times, you might have a go at it with just a file. Stihl round files work very well. Pferd files are also supposed to be good. Those Home Depot files (Power Care)wear pretty quickly, and don't hold a candle to the Stihl files.

I do have a chain grinder, but prefer to sharpen by hand. Its too easy to overheat the cutters, and remove too much metal. The Dremel variety doesn't interest me. It just doesn't seem like a good idea for a variety of reasons.

I think that Stihl recommends 13/64, but lots of guys go one size larger (7/32)on the front half of the cutters.
 
Stihl chain sharpening

Stihl recommends a 13/64" round file for their 3/8" pitch chains, and I switch to 3/16" when the cutters get to the point where the 13/64" file starts getting into the chain straps. Pferd and Stihl files have held up for me, but some others haven't. I used an old Montgomery Ward clamp-on file guide until recently, but with the file guides that Stihl offers that show the angle to which the file guide should be held and control the depth, I can do a better job faster that way. Never tried a Dremel or power sharpener. Hand sharpening is quick and easy enough for someone who's not having to make a living at it, besides, I enjoy the excuse to sit on a cut chunk by the tailgate every once in awhile. Don't forget to check the rakers and file them occasionally to hold the cut depth to what you need for the kind of wood you're cutting mostly. I generally keep them 0.025" below the tops of the cutters. 'Tain't brain surgery, but does take some concentration until you get the hang of it.
 
I use this rule: on the third filing, take the little flat file and do the rakers. It can be hard to remember though, if you are running more than one saw. I don't know how to sharpen with other than a round file and a flat file and a hand.:)
 
i dont think you should use a dremel to sharpen chain. it gets the chain too hot wrecking the whole chain in the process. you can sharpen it all you want after that but it will dull out after every two cuts.
powered chain grinders arn't very high speed and i just think a dremel will heat it up too much.
 
I use this rule: on the third filing, take the little flat file and do the rakers. It can be hard to remember though, if you are running more than one saw. I don't know how to sharpen with other than a round file and a flat file and a hand.:)


About time someone brought up the subject of rakers, there's so importain for a good cut!
 
I have a Stihl 310. I have an 18 inch bar and a 24 inch bar. Both use the 3/8 chain. What size file or dremel bit is best for this chain. Is there a specific Stihl kit for this or regular old Home Depot round file OK? Thanks.
I used to use one of those filling outfits that clamps on the bar for a great many years, until I bought a Jolly Bench Grinder, chain grinding machine. (TecoMec 136), identical to the Oregon Bench chain grinding machine. Personaly its up to the individual. If you plan on doing alot of cutting wood, it would be worth the money, and invest it once, instead of wishing you would have bought somthing else. I used to cut a lot more wood than I do now. I used to cut firewood for alot of farmers, because they didn't have the time for it. 100 bush cord a year. Used to have 4 chains per saw too. Sharpened 4 chains an hour every night, after supper. 2 hours anite. Now I cut only 30 to 40 bush cords a year. Sharpen a lot of the neighbours chains with it too. Now I sharpen 8 chains in an hour. It's quicker amd easier with a Bench Grinding Machine. No guessing on how to hold the file. Every tooth is the Identical to the next. Chain runs true in the guide bar as well. Hand filing, you never get each tooth of the chain the same. You will wear out your chain, and guide bar edges a lot quicker too. Its up to you. Quied bars, and chains are not cheep, if you don't get along time out of them.
My oppinion any way. If it was me, I'd get my self a Bench Grinding Machine.
Bruce.
 
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