New 3120XP received today!!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Simple Jack

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 5, 2019
Messages
46
Reaction score
71
Location
USA
I was planning on getting a 395xp and had my mind made up that is what I was going to get, but thechainsawguy had a good deal, not that I "NEEDED" the 3120xp, but the price difference was less than $100 after I paid taxes on the local one, so why not? Just using it for milling, so the extra power might come in handy someday?

So A few weeks back I had purchased a 30" Sthil bar & chains to see If I was able to use the chainsaw mill, I thought everything went great and enjoyed it, so.. I ordered the 3120XP last week. Now what to do with this 30" bar and chain I purchased for the Sthil MS390, I had PM'ed a guy on here about getting it to work on the Husky, he told me to make the slot about 3/4" longer, etc... They make a insert for the Sthil bars for a husky, but unless you make the slot longer, you ain't using the same chain, and they say the hole spacing is different on the 3120xp. So when the saw arrived here today, I measured the base of the bolts for the bar, they were .355=9mm and the slot width for the bar was I believe around .475. So I got a Idea that was fairly easy to make this work. Redding Competition die bushing in steel. So I got one of the bushings with a slightly larger diameter hole, .359. I split it in half with the Dremel cut off wheel, and being that the bushing was 1/2" outside diameter, I just made a few passes with a file on the two outside edges to get it narrow enough to fit in the slot of the bar. I put everything together and it works great!!

I guess I could use the 18" bar from the Sthil for Run-In time, but I ordered a 24" bar from the local shop, so I can cut up a few trees with it before I start milling. Now I need to use it around 10hrs for Run-In time before extended run time at high RPM, so the book says.

The saw is a beast for sure!! I ordered me a 3-gal. gas can to mix up fuel just for it. I'm going to mix it 32:1 or 33:1 for milling and I'll have my regular can filled with 40:1 for everything else that takes 2-cycle. Now the big decision?? What 2 cycle oil to mix 32:1 for milling ;-)???
 
Thanks guys!!! but don't be too jealous, I had to give up one of my toys to get this, otherwise I couldn't afford it. But I think it will be worth it!
 
You do know the saw is meant to run 50:1 mix & it has a fixed H jet, running at 32:1 will mean you will have a leaner air / fuel ratio which could overheat & damage the engine.
 
You do know the saw is meant to run 50:1 mix & it has a fixed H jet, running at 32:1 will mean you will have a leaner air / fuel ratio which could overheat & damage the engine.

What!? They are both adjustable high and low, two jet screws seen here in this video. Am I missing something?


Simple jack, you absolutely need to get a tuning screw driver for that saw, this is one baby you don’t want to **** up running lean it’s too much money. Do some searching on tuning, imo you should practice on a poulan before you do it on this saw :)
You sound like you jumped right in to a John Deere excavator in which you have no idea on how to mechanically keep up said excavator lol. I mean no offence by this , just do some research before you potentially ruin an amazing saw.
 
The carburetors for the 3120XP and for the 395XP and probably a few more models have a fixed high speed jet. The two screws that can be adjusted are the low speed and the idol screws. No offense taken at all. I will keep a very close eye on it!! No need to practice on a Poulan, I've already practiced on a Sthil. That would suck to ruin a new saw, but if it happened because of me, I can rebuild it myself. If it is running lean, I can open the jet slightly. I would like to find out what size jet they are running everywhere else in the world besides USA and Canada. I would be willing to bet they are very, very, very close. All the other versions in the world, or I guess I should say the ones that I could read. Whats crazy is they can run leaded and unleaded fuel and 50:1 Husqvarna oil mix and they can run 33:1 oil mix also with out changing the fixed jet. Isn't it wild how they can run such a wide range of oil mix without changing their High Speed Jet? I gotta have me one of those jets!!

Out of the United Kingdom Husqvarna manual :

Mixing ratio
1:50 (2%) with HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil.
1:33 (3%) with oils class JASO FB or ISO EGB formulated for air-cooled, two-stroke engines


Myself, I believe the only reason 33:1 is not listed in these manuals is because the USA can't list 33:1 oil mix because that mix will not meet the EPA specs rules and regulations. I think it's that simple. Not trying to start a debate or anything like that, because no one is going to change my mind on the EPA. I just think that's the way it is.
 
That would defiantly make things a little easier adjusting. My Sthil MS290/MS390 had the limiter caps on them at one time. I had to remove them for a little adjustment. There are a few people out there modifying the carbs on the 3120xp by drilling and taping the carb for a adjustable valve. That sounds like the best thing to have done. Or maybe I could order one of those jets from United Kingdom? Maybe someone makes a set of jets in different sizes?
 
Congrats on your new saw!!

I've been milling for about a year and half with a 3120xp.
It's tuned to 12k and runs only 40:1 mix.... never heats up and runs nice and smooth.
My carb was modified to adjust the high. Muffler opened and cylinder ported (MMWS).
There is no need to run any stronger oil mixture.
Just smokes more. Worse for operator and not any better for saw.

Just received a 62" bar and rail extensions to tackle this big Dinosaur of a tree. (36" in pic)
42973197381_5210a78534_c.jpg
 
Yamalube 2R and 92 E-free when I mix.
I often run 40:1 Trufuel as well as I don't have Ethanol free Gasoline nearby.
Truelfuel Smoke Smells less too .
Randy Evans runs the Yamalube so I tried it.
If your tuner/mechanic runs something you run it :D
Warning..... Oil threads are a thing around here!
 
That is a nice looking set up you have Andy!!! Yes, I seen some oil threads, the one with 400 something pages!! My gosh!! We can keep this one small, all I would like to know is people milling with the 3120XP, not the 880 or the 090, or anything else, just milling with the 3120xp.
 
I tried an Ms661 prior to the 3120xp.
What a sweet saw the 661 was for felling and bucking... but for milling, the choice is simple.... go for the cubes.
The 661 would often slow down and struggle in the cut. Also had trouble keeping up with oil on a 36" bar while milling (seemed fine oiling a 36 otherwise).
Using the 3120, I don't notice the saw bogging really at all and the oiler keeps up with a 36 no prob.
It stays cool and just seems to keep pulling the same all the way through the cut.
I'm mostly milling Fir, cedar, an Hemlock but also the occasional Maple.
We'll see how this "long" bar goes.
Cheers!
 
Congrats on the new saw. My 3120 does not have an adjustable H jet (I think the very early ones did) and I think it is rev limited to 10.5K. Both my 395xp(s) have an adjustable H. Since I got the 395xps, I haven’t started my 3120. It sports a 50” cannon bar and I only use it for big money cuts. It is a gas hogg and way too heavy to be toting around. I think the manual will recommend 50:1 husky oil and 40:1 non-husky oil or something like that. I would go with 50:1 with a good synthetic like Amsoil saber or stihl ultra.
 
IIRC The Factory Rev limit on the limited coil is 12.5k (3120xp manual).... 10.5k sounds really low.
I tried mine at 11-11.5 for milling and it felt too boggy. A friend recommended tuning it to 12k where it stays now.
It's great for milling and flattening big stumps. I go with a lower pin count and more aggressive rakers.
More grunt and bigger chips!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top