malk315
Running Saws for Therapy
Hi Everyone-
I'm completely new here.
My brother did treework for a number of years and about 5 years ago he gave me his first saw -- a 262XP that's now about 20 years old. Has 20" bar 3/8 pitch 0.058 guage full comp w/ 7 pin rim sprocket -- Oregon chisel chain (just teeth -- no kickback prevention features on the chain).
For 3 years I've been living in a fully wooded lot w/ some really large pines (for New England anyway) and the saw's been great, but it's getting tired, pretty sure tank is cracked leaking lots of gas etc. The saw should be gone through.
Was going to replace it w/ 357XP to get 1 lb lighter w/ about same power, but decided the 372XP is only slightly heavier and has even more power. Finally pulled the trigger and got:
372XP X-Torq manufactured 2011 on serial plate, brand new from Chapel Tractor in New Hampshire.
24" Husqvarna bar w/ 3/8" pitch 0.058 gauge full comp chain w/ 7 pin rim sprocket. Husky brand chain (pretty sure rebranded Oregon chisel w/ just teeth and no kickback features on the chain).
Haven't used it for real yet -- just tested it on some pine laying around. You can really feel it firing when idling (throaty) and it's definitely got some nice power to it. Tacks up nice and high like the smaller XP saws (neighbor has 346XP he just got and that thing really tacks up there too). Might get a 20" bar for firewood curious to see if I'd get more cutting speed -- the 24" is for some of the large diameter pines we've got around here -- got some big stuff to cut and split to fire a Sugarshack for maple syrup next winter -- pine burns hot!
Here's some questions for you -- I'm a homeowner type user, but enjoy using pro saws for reliability and performance and probably more experience than a typical homeowner.
Questions:
1. This saw has 3 position oil volume delivery settings. It's in the center position which is what it was set to for the stock 20" bar the saw usually is marketed with. Do you think the 24" bar would call for moving the oil pump volume to the 3rd position to get the most oil? I'd like to avoid having the oil run out before fuel (this is X-torq so it sips fuel compared to non X-torq) but I'm willing to have oil run out first if it means properly lubed bar and just be careful to check when at 1/2 tank gas.
2. Do you think I would notice much difference with 20" bar versus the 24" I have? Unfortunately the 20" for the 262 I don't think is compatible with 372 even though same pitch and gauge so I can't just swap. Keeping 262 as backup saw when doing firewood etc.
3. Are some of the more professional bars like I think GB ones from Australia going to show any difference to the Husky brand bars (I think made by Oregon) or Oregon brand ones like the Powermatch bars? Not trying to start brand wars or anything -- I'm familiar so far with Husky, Oregon and GB but really have all experience with Husky brand bars. Will probably get an Oregon powermatch plus 20" if I decide to outfit the 372XP with a 20" bar.
Thanks for listening. Pictures below (or hopefully attached -- not used to this forum software).
--
Eric
Lancaster, MA
I'm completely new here.
My brother did treework for a number of years and about 5 years ago he gave me his first saw -- a 262XP that's now about 20 years old. Has 20" bar 3/8 pitch 0.058 guage full comp w/ 7 pin rim sprocket -- Oregon chisel chain (just teeth -- no kickback prevention features on the chain).
For 3 years I've been living in a fully wooded lot w/ some really large pines (for New England anyway) and the saw's been great, but it's getting tired, pretty sure tank is cracked leaking lots of gas etc. The saw should be gone through.
Was going to replace it w/ 357XP to get 1 lb lighter w/ about same power, but decided the 372XP is only slightly heavier and has even more power. Finally pulled the trigger and got:
372XP X-Torq manufactured 2011 on serial plate, brand new from Chapel Tractor in New Hampshire.
24" Husqvarna bar w/ 3/8" pitch 0.058 gauge full comp chain w/ 7 pin rim sprocket. Husky brand chain (pretty sure rebranded Oregon chisel w/ just teeth and no kickback features on the chain).
Haven't used it for real yet -- just tested it on some pine laying around. You can really feel it firing when idling (throaty) and it's definitely got some nice power to it. Tacks up nice and high like the smaller XP saws (neighbor has 346XP he just got and that thing really tacks up there too). Might get a 20" bar for firewood curious to see if I'd get more cutting speed -- the 24" is for some of the large diameter pines we've got around here -- got some big stuff to cut and split to fire a Sugarshack for maple syrup next winter -- pine burns hot!
Here's some questions for you -- I'm a homeowner type user, but enjoy using pro saws for reliability and performance and probably more experience than a typical homeowner.
Questions:
1. This saw has 3 position oil volume delivery settings. It's in the center position which is what it was set to for the stock 20" bar the saw usually is marketed with. Do you think the 24" bar would call for moving the oil pump volume to the 3rd position to get the most oil? I'd like to avoid having the oil run out before fuel (this is X-torq so it sips fuel compared to non X-torq) but I'm willing to have oil run out first if it means properly lubed bar and just be careful to check when at 1/2 tank gas.
2. Do you think I would notice much difference with 20" bar versus the 24" I have? Unfortunately the 20" for the 262 I don't think is compatible with 372 even though same pitch and gauge so I can't just swap. Keeping 262 as backup saw when doing firewood etc.
3. Are some of the more professional bars like I think GB ones from Australia going to show any difference to the Husky brand bars (I think made by Oregon) or Oregon brand ones like the Powermatch bars? Not trying to start brand wars or anything -- I'm familiar so far with Husky, Oregon and GB but really have all experience with Husky brand bars. Will probably get an Oregon powermatch plus 20" if I decide to outfit the 372XP with a 20" bar.
Thanks for listening. Pictures below (or hopefully attached -- not used to this forum software).
--
Eric
Lancaster, MA
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