new b neads info alaskan sawmil

[busybeazz]

Hi every one i am new to this site and new to milling im needing as much info on alaskan saw milling as you all are willing to offer .I have just bought a miii it has not even arrived yet my saw is stihl 029 i know its a little under powerd but its what ive got for now maybe later ill buy bigger saw . Plus i am cutting poplar max 12" for now i am building a vertical log cabin and i am on a budget . i am hoping to mill most if not all my lumber so any advice on set up and running mill or tricks of the trade would b greatly appreciated
thank you
Tom B

 

[steve fryar]

Hi and welcome.Do a search on CSM rails, chains or just chainsaw milling.

 

[redoak]

you've come to the right place, I started CS milling a year ago based on advice from this forum. I'm real happy with the results. I'll let the more experienced members have a crack at your question, but my guess is they are really going to recommend a larger saw. I bought a 660 to mill white pine and given my limited experience I wouldn't think of milling with my 290. In fact tomorrow I am picking up an 18" bar and rip chain for the 660 to work with the mini mill. In all I've got about $1500 into my set up and it has paid for itself already milling timbers for the barn.

If you haven't put together rails yet check out a product called "super strut" worked nice for me. I posted some pics earlier this week of some flooring for a barn, pretty good shots of the rail I am using there.

-redoak

 

[hazard]

Here is a lame presentation of how I setup up the first cut on a log.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=73696

The only limitation to the jig is the length of the 2x4. I started out using a stihl 044 and new that it was underpowered so I moved onto a 066. The only wood close to what you are cutting that I have cut is cottonwood. It was really easy for the 066. I am used to cutting oak, cherry and walnut so the 066 is definitely needed. 20" plus usually.

Goodluck and be in shape before you start sawing. It will beat you down if you are not.

Chris

 

[busybeazz]

thanks for all the good advise keep them coming .any advice on using riper chain or regular chain? what kind of chain oil should i use ?
I will be on the look out for bigger saw .but intend to try my 029 for now thanks again

 

[hazard]

I generally use ripping chain. There seems to be alot less vibration thru the mill. They cut about the same though.

I use only stihl bar oil. I ran out and bought some cheap stuff from the local hardware store. It made a serious difference on cutting.

Chris

 

[excess650]

Here is a lame presentation of how I setup up the first cut on a log.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=73696

The only limitation to the jig is the length of the 2x4. I started out using a stihl 044 and new that it was underpowered so I moved onto a 066. The only wood close to what you are cutting that I have cut is cottonwood. It was really easy for the 066. I am used to cutting oak, cherry and walnut so the 066 is definitely needed. 20" plus usually.

Goodluck and be in shape before you start sawing. It will beat you down if you are not.

Chris

I made up brackets from 2" aluminum angle to do the same job as your square tubing. While you use clamps, I use drywall screws to hold the 2x4s to the end brackets, and the brackets to the log. My 2x4s are 10' so I cut some "rungs" to stabilize the 2x4s. Once the ends are fastened, the rungs can be positioned to touch the top of the log and then screwed to the 2x4s so as to prevent flexing up and down.

10' 2x4s are about perfect for 8' lumber or beams. 12" lead in/out makes for nicer beginning and ends of the cuts. My problem is that my truck has a 6-3/4' bed so long stuff has to stick out the back. For longer stuff, I join 2x4s together to make whatever length I need.

If you decided to try the 2x4s for guide rails, be sure to eyeball them and make sure you get straight ones! The mill will follow the contours of the rails.

I made my first cuts with a 272xp and 28" bar. This setup allowed me to adjust for 21.5" width maximum after the bark dogs were removed from the saw. I expected that Hemlock would be easy to mill, but the 272 seemed a bit slow despite new chain(round chisel). I swapped the 066 onto the rig later with similar chain, and it cut at least 3 times as fast! Displacement makes a BIG difference.

I also have a Haddon Lumbermaker. I finally got to try it a couple of weeks back. The piece of hemlock that I had remaining was 10" or so in diameter and 10' long. I made the top and bottom cuts with the Alaskan mill, and then just screwed a 2x4 to the top for the Haddon. I mounted it to the 18" .325 bar on my Husqvarna 353 (53cc 3.3hp) and proceeded to cut the sides. It wasn't particularly slow, but didn't yield as smooth and uniform of finish as the Alaskan. The finished 6x6 was only going to be used for a mailbox it didn't matter. With this type of equipment, the 029 should be fine. As for finish, a planer will clean up the rough stuff anyway.

 

[busybeazz]

any suggestions on what kind and power of saw i should look for and how much should i expect to pay fore good milling saw used thanks

 

[excess650]

any suggestions on what kind and power of saw i should look for and how much should i expect to pay fore good milling saw used thanks

I would suggest Stihl 046/460 or Husqvarna 385 as the smallest. The Husqvarna 390 and 395 would be better as would Stihl 066/650/660. You might find an older saw that would work fine, but be careful to buy something that you can get parts for. Used will be in the $400-$700 range, and a new MS660 or 395XP will run more like $1100.

There are bigger saws available, but not necessary unless you're cutting really big stuff. The Stihl 084/088/880 and Husqvarna 3120 come to mind, but powerheads alone weigh 23#+. If had one of those, it would be for mill use only. A MS660/066 with 25" B&C will weigh the same 23#. Along those same lines, your 029 shares the same bar mount as the 066/660, but the larger 084/088/088 take a different bar.

Keep in mind that you're going to lose 6" of bar with an Alaskan mill, so will need 28" for the max width cut on the 24" mill(about 21.5" on mine). A shorter bar will work, and I've used my 25" with the 066. Even for the smaller wood you're talking about, a 24" bar would be my minimum suggestion so that you can space your rails further apart for more stability. That would allow your saw to straddle about 18" of log or slabbing brackets.

 

[slabmaster]

I started milling with a 394 husky and found it to be a very good milling saw.I now have a 395 and like it as well.I have used alot of 066s also.The o66s seemed to work harder at milling though.I do have a 290 which is way to much under powered,even for it's size.It has a hard time falling trees let alone milling with it.You might be able to pick up a 394 used for 400.00 to 500.00 as i did.If you do,that is more than you need for milling what you mentioned.

 

[busybeazz]

huski stihl confusion

I was doing some checking on ebay and noticed huski 455 rancher is only 55.5 cc my stihl o29 is 54 cc wate gives is the huskie that much better saw ?

 

[slabmaster]

I was doing some checking on ebay and noticed huski 455 rancher is only 55.5 cc my stihl o29 is 54 cc wate gives is the huskie that much better saw ?

I think it is.Especually for the money.The stihls don't have the case volume that husky has which gives you more power than stihl.I've tried both and husky wins hands down.

 

[irishcountry]

I have a 395xp also and it kicks! Of course it will bog down in real hard stuff from time to time but i'm real happy overall. I think your only other option is a older saw that goes above 100cc's I would take a look at some of BobL's and Aggiewoodbutcher's posts as I think they both run older Stihl's that are over 100cc's but I forgot the model numbers. You might get lucky and pick one up somewhere used and I would think you could get parts for them if they need repair. good luck irishcountry

 

[excess650]

100cc isn't necessary for milling 12" poplar. A 70+cc saw will handle that, but it will be a bit slower.

 

[BobL]

I think your only other option is a older saw that goes above 100cc's I would take a look at some of BobL's and Aggiewoodbutcher's posts as I think they both run older Stihl's that are over 100cc's but I forgot the model numbers. . . . . . . .

I have an 076 (111cc) running a 42" bar in a 52" Alasksan mill. The 076 is low revving, gas hungry and vibrates more than newer model saws, but I still love using it especially in big logs where it just churns along all day in the supertough Aussie hardwoods. I'm currently modifying this mill to take a 60" bar. The mill will be 65" long so it will be able take up to a 64" bar.

I also have a little used 50cc Homelite 340 plastic bodied saw that runs a 20" bar on a small (24") alaskan mill. I use that for logs up to 16" in diameter. Using an 050" low profile chain it fairly slices its way through even very hard logs. I have slabbed a lot of small logs with this set up. It works so well I rarely get out the big mill to slab up anything under 16" in diameter. Sure the bigger mill is faster but the saw and mill combo weighs nearly twice as much so the smaller mill and saw is much easier on the body and much easier to balance on small logs.

My next project is a rough running 066 I was given for nothing! I opened it up and it had its rings bound lightly to the piston so I've ordered a Bailey's Big Bore kit for it! I started this project with the intention of using it as a faller/bucker running a 36 or 42" bar, but it's increasingly tempting to try this on my big mill.:hmm3grin2orange:

BTW 18 months ago the only CS I had was a clapped out 36 year old 50cc McCulloch!
:chainsawguy:

Cheers

 

[busybeazz]

Thanks everyone for your replies i was cutting wood today with my stihl 029 and just wanted to try cutting against grain and it seamed to cut pretty fast it was some pretty hard wood that had seasoned maple .So win my mill arrives hopefully tomorrow or Tuesday and i build some rails i am gonna give it a try ill just go slow and let saw rest between cuts logs will only b 8' to 12' long and then when i find a good deal on saw ill pick it up .

 

[BobL]

So win my mill arrives hopefully tomorrow or Tuesday and i build some rails i am gonna give it a try ill just go slow and let saw rest between cuts logs will only b 8' to 12' long and then when i find a good deal on saw ill pick it up .

Taking it slowly is good but more important than resting (that won't actually do anything significant) is

a) make sure it is running slightly richer than normal
b) make sure it gets a chance to cool down at the end of a slab or beam. Just let it idle for 60 secs or a minute before shutting down. That takes the edge off the high temp it developes with continuous use
c) make sure your oiler is set for max delivery.

Cheers

 

[busybeazz]

I built some rails using uni struts 10 ft i stole someones idea .finally got my mill tonight about 8pm put it all together mounted to my little saw stihl 029 and made m first cut i like it now I've got the bug iam looking for a bigger saw my brother has 048 he said i can have but its low on compression so it will need a rebuild asap any idea how much rebuild should cost me ? the Little saw did pretty good but i can sea that a bigger saw is a must sinc the log i cut was only about 10 in and 8 ft long thanks ever one fore your help

 

[excess650]

Low on compression could mean it needs rings, rings and piston, or piston/rings and cylinder. You'll have to check around for parts, but the site sponsors here might be able to help you out.

 

[parrisw]

I wouldn't do it with anything less then a 90cc saw. I use a 394xp husky with really good results. If your building a house with this, your current saw just will not cut it. Dig deeper into your budget to allow a bigger saw, buy good used if you can.

Will