sunfish
Fish Head
The pic of the 346 looks fine, as far as the lines are concerned.
The impulse line is the one up under the intake.
The impulse line is the one up under the intake.
New CAD victim, picking up a 346XP
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nmurph
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You are missing the vent line. It comes off the tank adjacent to the fuel line and attaches to the nipple below the filter. If you have a primer bulb, you will have a third line coming off the same side as the other two, coming over to the left side of the filter box and attaching to the primer bulb. Then the output from the primer bulb flows to the nipple on the L rear of the carb.
Does the vent line just disappear into the fuel tank or does the far end attach to another niple down there?
Would a lack of this line cause a no start condition?
There is no priner bulb on this saw, no provision for one either.
So just to clarify, that nipple in the orange plastic near the intake manifold would be used for a primer bulb if I had one and I should not have anything hooked up to that nipple, right?
Would a lack of this line cause a no start condition?
There is no priner bulb on this saw, no provision for one either.
So just to clarify, that nipple in the orange plastic near the intake manifold would be used for a primer bulb if I had one and I should not have anything hooked up to that nipple, right?
nmurph
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OK, if you are referring to the nipple in the floor of the carb box, I don't have any idea. I assume it is used on another model that shares this CC. That nipple is not used in the 346.
The vent line should have a small, white, plastic vent on the end. It slips into a recess on the tank and the other end of the hose slips on the nipple immediately below the filter. Not having this attached will not affect your saws cranking or running. In fact, disconnecting it at the tank is a way to determine if you have a bad vent if you are having symptoms such as the saw loosing power and shutting down during a cut due to a vacuum created by a bad tank vent. You may have the vent line connected to the intake of the carb. The fuel line does "dissapear" into the side of the tank. I have crossed those two up more times than I care to admit.
Going from memory, the fuel line is the line closest to the rear handle and the vent line is the one that is farther forward. Either way, the vent line terminates in a recessed hole in which the vent inserts, while the fuel line slips into a small hole in the wall of the tank.
The vent line should have a small, white, plastic vent on the end. It slips into a recess on the tank and the other end of the hose slips on the nipple immediately below the filter. Not having this attached will not affect your saws cranking or running. In fact, disconnecting it at the tank is a way to determine if you have a bad vent if you are having symptoms such as the saw loosing power and shutting down during a cut due to a vacuum created by a bad tank vent. You may have the vent line connected to the intake of the carb. The fuel line does "dissapear" into the side of the tank. I have crossed those two up more times than I care to admit.
Going from memory, the fuel line is the line closest to the rear handle and the vent line is the one that is farther forward. Either way, the vent line terminates in a recessed hole in which the vent inserts, while the fuel line slips into a small hole in the wall of the tank.
sunfish
Fish Head
My old 346 does not have a vent line coming up into the air box.
Now I need to go look and see where the vent line is.
Can you snap a photo of that side of the saw with the cover and filter off? Probably the easiest way to make sure ts plumbed properly. Could be that the chief issue was the gap was double the spec gap and its ready for work right now, but with a nice shiny P&C (and upgraded to 50cc's to boot!) I just want to be sure its good to go before I get it fired up and put it in some wood.
Well I did the poor man's vacuum and pressure test and the motor seems to be leak free, so I regapped the plug to .020 (it was over .040), screwed it down and put some fresh mix in there. Choke on, decomp on, third pull and the sucker starts screaming like no tomorrow.
No bar and chain on there, so I assume its reasonable for the saw to rev alot higher than normal...combined with the fact that this is a much higher revving saw than my 359 anyway. Idle seems to be pretty good and stable, doesn't change revs up or down no matter what orientation I leave it in (on its side, tipped on end, upside down, etc.), but blipping the throttle bogs the motor for a second, so I guess the carb is in need of some adjustments.
When idling and I squeeze the throttle, the motor bogs down for about a second or so (almost like its going to stall) and then the revs climb, at first unsteadliy and then suddenly it hits its stride and the thing shoots up to what must 12000 rpm or something. Release the throttle and the revs come back down, right before it stabilizes back at idle the thing bogs and stumbles again and acts like its going to die...then it goes back to idle.
I have not touched the carb adjustments, but there's no telling what the guy did who put the new P&C in...could be nothing, could be he dinked with the jets or something else when he disassembled the saw.
Thoughts on proper adjustments? I beleive it has the plugs on the carb screws, but like I said, I haven't really looked at that or tried to make any adjustments. I am a carb noob so any help here would be great. Worst comes to worst I can always take it in for a tuneup but I like learning new things and tinkering so if I cna take this opportunity to further my education then thats great.
I think since its bogging when I pull the throttle off idle that my problem is likely the L jet setting right? Maybe running a hair too rich and the excess fuel when I goose it is causing it to bog and then when the H jet kicks in its probably pretty close to running right so it starts screaming when it switches over? Like I said, I'm a noob to this part.
Gotta go get a bar and chain for it today. Now I need to figure out what size to get. My 359 has a 20" bar so I'm thinking a 16 or 18 for the 346 would be ideal. One saw or the other will be used as the other's backup, but not havig run the 346 I don't yet know which one will be my preference. Powerhead is significnatly smaller on the 346 but I can barely feel the difference in weight between the two, the longer bar on the 359 will make a big weight and balance difference.
No bar and chain on there, so I assume its reasonable for the saw to rev alot higher than normal...combined with the fact that this is a much higher revving saw than my 359 anyway. Idle seems to be pretty good and stable, doesn't change revs up or down no matter what orientation I leave it in (on its side, tipped on end, upside down, etc.), but blipping the throttle bogs the motor for a second, so I guess the carb is in need of some adjustments.
When idling and I squeeze the throttle, the motor bogs down for about a second or so (almost like its going to stall) and then the revs climb, at first unsteadliy and then suddenly it hits its stride and the thing shoots up to what must 12000 rpm or something. Release the throttle and the revs come back down, right before it stabilizes back at idle the thing bogs and stumbles again and acts like its going to die...then it goes back to idle.
I have not touched the carb adjustments, but there's no telling what the guy did who put the new P&C in...could be nothing, could be he dinked with the jets or something else when he disassembled the saw.
Thoughts on proper adjustments? I beleive it has the plugs on the carb screws, but like I said, I haven't really looked at that or tried to make any adjustments. I am a carb noob so any help here would be great. Worst comes to worst I can always take it in for a tuneup but I like learning new things and tinkering so if I cna take this opportunity to further my education then thats great.
I think since its bogging when I pull the throttle off idle that my problem is likely the L jet setting right? Maybe running a hair too rich and the excess fuel when I goose it is causing it to bog and then when the H jet kicks in its probably pretty close to running right so it starts screaming when it switches over? Like I said, I'm a noob to this part.
Gotta go get a bar and chain for it today. Now I need to figure out what size to get. My 359 has a 20" bar so I'm thinking a 16 or 18 for the 346 would be ideal. One saw or the other will be used as the other's backup, but not havig run the 346 I don't yet know which one will be my preference. Powerhead is significnatly smaller on the 346 but I can barely feel the difference in weight between the two, the longer bar on the 359 will make a big weight and balance difference.
For a 346 I like a nice 16" blade. How's about you guys...? What's your favorite sized blade?
I know some like a bigger blade, but I'm just wondering if anyone agrees that a 16" blade is the perfect sized blade for a 346.
I think so. I think the 16" blade is the best blade out there and if anyone disagrees about the size of blade I have suggested I'd love to hear they recommendation for the perfect sided blade.
I know some like a bigger blade, but I'm just wondering if anyone agrees that a 16" blade is the perfect sized blade for a 346.
I think so. I think the 16" blade is the best blade out there and if anyone disagrees about the size of blade I have suggested I'd love to hear they recommendation for the perfect sided blade.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Turn the low jet ccw 1/8 turn at a time until the bog is gone. You'll probably need to idle it up afterward.
nmurph
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AFTER you have removed the limiters, set the H & L screws 1 turn from seated. Don't run the saw until you do so and get the idle down. Bar or no bar won't matter as the the clutch is free-wheeling at idle.
Cool, I'll give that a shot. This is basically (I think) now a new saw. Made in 07 it a 346XP OE (which I think means unlimited coil), not CAT in the muffler and a brand new (brand unknown) 50cc piston and cylinder.
Whats the best way to get the plugs out of the screws? Sheet rock screw and give them a yank?
How do I adjust the idle speed? H and L scerws or a third adjustment?
Whats the best way to get the plugs out of the screws? Sheet rock screw and give them a yank?
How do I adjust the idle speed? H and L scerws or a third adjustment?
nmurph
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OE = non-limited
Yes, sheetrock screw and turn and pull until you feel the detent tab line up and it will slip out.
Set the L screw for proper response from idle and then adjust the idle screw. Then set the H.
Yes, sheetrock screw and turn and pull until you feel the detent tab line up and it will slip out.
Set the L screw for proper response from idle and then adjust the idle screw. Then set the H.
Got the limiters off, turned both screws in till they hit the stops and backed them out 1 full turn each. Thing fired right up, let it warm and started messing with the L setting to get rid of the bog off idle. Went as far as another half turn of the screw and it didn't change anything...then the throttle stuck wide open on me till I freed the throttle linkage up where it looked to be stuck on the choke linkage. I shut it down and packed it up because I had run out of time.
Fast forward a couple days and I'm sitting there looking at the thing next to my 359 and I know somethings not quite right but I can't quite put my finger on it. The 346's action feels different than the 359's...all the controls feel a bit sloppy and the stuck throttle is bugging me. So I start gently jiggling things when I notice the choke/kill switch controls are really floppy...following the connctiopns for those controls forward I see that the air intake has alot of motion to it...follow it a bit more and I see the freaking air intake isn't even bolted to the carb...the darn bolt is sticking out about an inch from being snug...it really only just keeping it aligned, the hex head is right up next to the end of the body and the intake is just held to the carb from the pressure of the throttle rod and fuel line. If you look at the attached photo, the bolt is not visible, but the head is right under the 90 degree bend in the throttle rod.
View attachment 200247
The shaft of the bolt is as covered with sawdust as the surrounding area, suggesting to me that its been like this for quite some time now...the seller told me he never got the saw to start after replacing the p&c, so this could go back to a factory defect or original owner screwing with the saw or a lousy job from someone who serviced the thing.
Would the intake not being connected properly to the carb and allowing air to flow in from that area instead of through the air filter cause the kind of air leak that could lean out a saw enough to kill the piston or is it more of a debris damage risk? Would this make it difficult to tune the saw properly? I can definitely see how it would make that bogging noise off idle.
My other question is, how do I get at the head of the bolt to tighten it? Its too tight to get an allen key in there, I grabbed the bolt with some needle nose pliers and it turns freely, but I don't want to tear it up by doing that. I think if i can just remove or even move that rubber gasket at the very back of the saw where the control linkages go into the body from the handle that I could get at the bolt head and maybe get back to trying to tune this thing. Does that gasket just lift out or something or do I have to unhook all the linkages and remove the whoe carb/intake assembly? Looked online for a service manual but all I could find was a parts list, not disassembly instructions.
Getting there slowly. In my excitement I picked upa 16" bar and chain for it, so when its tuned I can put it right into some wood and see how it performs.
Fast forward a couple days and I'm sitting there looking at the thing next to my 359 and I know somethings not quite right but I can't quite put my finger on it. The 346's action feels different than the 359's...all the controls feel a bit sloppy and the stuck throttle is bugging me. So I start gently jiggling things when I notice the choke/kill switch controls are really floppy...following the connctiopns for those controls forward I see that the air intake has alot of motion to it...follow it a bit more and I see the freaking air intake isn't even bolted to the carb...the darn bolt is sticking out about an inch from being snug...it really only just keeping it aligned, the hex head is right up next to the end of the body and the intake is just held to the carb from the pressure of the throttle rod and fuel line. If you look at the attached photo, the bolt is not visible, but the head is right under the 90 degree bend in the throttle rod.
View attachment 200247
The shaft of the bolt is as covered with sawdust as the surrounding area, suggesting to me that its been like this for quite some time now...the seller told me he never got the saw to start after replacing the p&c, so this could go back to a factory defect or original owner screwing with the saw or a lousy job from someone who serviced the thing.
Would the intake not being connected properly to the carb and allowing air to flow in from that area instead of through the air filter cause the kind of air leak that could lean out a saw enough to kill the piston or is it more of a debris damage risk? Would this make it difficult to tune the saw properly? I can definitely see how it would make that bogging noise off idle.
My other question is, how do I get at the head of the bolt to tighten it? Its too tight to get an allen key in there, I grabbed the bolt with some needle nose pliers and it turns freely, but I don't want to tear it up by doing that. I think if i can just remove or even move that rubber gasket at the very back of the saw where the control linkages go into the body from the handle that I could get at the bolt head and maybe get back to trying to tune this thing. Does that gasket just lift out or something or do I have to unhook all the linkages and remove the whoe carb/intake assembly? Looked online for a service manual but all I could find was a parts list, not disassembly instructions.
Getting there slowly. In my excitement I picked upa 16" bar and chain for it, so when its tuned I can put it right into some wood and see how it performs.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
If you have to cut off an allen wrench to get in there. It's normally put together on the jug then the jug is bolted on as a unit.
Check your PMs. I sent you a shop manual for it.
Check your PMs. I sent you a shop manual for it.
NuggyBuggy
ArboristSite Operative
I'm not exactly sure where your bolt is... couldn't figure it out from the description or pic, but I just started taking apart some 266es and they have one bolt to the Carb that was pretty hard to get to with an Allen wrench. I was going to grind an Allen wrench down to fit, but instead I went to IKEA and got one of their z-shaped Allen keys. If you live near one, just ask at customer service. Works like a charm if that's your problem.
SawTroll
Information Collector
It sounds like someone that has worked on it, and didn't put it properly together afterwards.
In my photo, the bolt is perfectly hidden by the fuel line.
Here is my 359 carb from the same angle, you can see the allen key bolt that holds the intake to the carb body, right next to the choke spring. Its in basically the same place on the 346, but its got almost an inch more to go in before its snug and the carb is pulling at least some air through there instead of the air filter. Not the swiftest guy in the world, but I'm pretty sure its not supposed to be like that and is probably not good for the engine.
View attachment 200264
Another question unrelated to the intake side. I pulled the muffler off and the gasket and heat shield are both pretty oily. Safe to assume this is not by design and they should be cleaned before I reinstall?
Here is my 359 carb from the same angle, you can see the allen key bolt that holds the intake to the carb body, right next to the choke spring. Its in basically the same place on the 346, but its got almost an inch more to go in before its snug and the carb is pulling at least some air through there instead of the air filter. Not the swiftest guy in the world, but I'm pretty sure its not supposed to be like that and is probably not good for the engine.
View attachment 200264
Another question unrelated to the intake side. I pulled the muffler off and the gasket and heat shield are both pretty oily. Safe to assume this is not by design and they should be cleaned before I reinstall?
Finally got back to messing with it. Got the intake hooked back into the carb and darned if the thing didn't fire right back up like it was new. Backed the L screw out about another 1/4 turn (making it roughly 1 1/4, give or take an 1/8th turn) and the bogging was totally gone...engine leaps off idle now like it should. Started missing about halfway up the revs or so, about 1/8 of a turn on the H screw got rid of that.
Runs crazy fast. Repeated trips from idle to rev limit and back and it seems to be working just fabulous. A little smoke from the muffler, bluish white has me concerned that I might have missed an air leak in the vacuum/pressure test so I'll pull it again and take another gander...possibly just the saw running a hair rich still and my mix is closer to 45:1 than 50:1.
Don't want to have gone through all this and made a great score on a great saw only to piss it away because I was impatient and not thorough.
Can't wait to try it on some wood that I've got laying down.
Thanks everyone for your help!
Runs crazy fast. Repeated trips from idle to rev limit and back and it seems to be working just fabulous. A little smoke from the muffler, bluish white has me concerned that I might have missed an air leak in the vacuum/pressure test so I'll pull it again and take another gander...possibly just the saw running a hair rich still and my mix is closer to 45:1 than 50:1.
Don't want to have gone through all this and made a great score on a great saw only to piss it away because I was impatient and not thorough.
Can't wait to try it on some wood that I've got laying down.
Thanks everyone for your help!
those 'ports' on your 359 are bolt-hole sleeves... the exhaust port on that muffler is WAY in the back on the top....(the 359)
the 346 is on the top under the cover...
it will be a non-cat muffler
and an unlimited coil.
Bailey's IS ASIAN made stuff...
does it have similar bulges @ the bottom of the cyl as does the original? it was probably an ebay top end (kafar) it's a 50cc cyl set.
I appreciate you mentioning that i was 1st in line.. you cut me!!:jester: Just foolin'...
I have NO IDEA what happened. I was SURE I happened upon it JUST at the right time. I emailed him just before 1:20, he posted it @ 12:50pm. I figured it may have been a 'lunch break' thing
I HATE WHEN THEY DON'T POST A PHONE #!!!!!!!!! :bang: it's quite annoying playing the waiting game.
I actually wasted a portion of the afternoon waiting for an email..
oh well, milk's already spilt.
I have tons of swede (husky, j-red, partner) parts...as well as stihl and others... so surewe can do something. I'm just outside worcester.
Hell! I'm happy for you....
Talk soon
Jay
SawGarage;
I forgot all about this, but you're welcome to the old P&C if you want them. I tried to PM you, but your mailbox is full.
PM me if you want.
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