New Chain - what file?

[Rick_uk]

Hi i'm new to using chainsaws and sharpening angles and basiclaly anything to do with the chainsaw.

I put on a new sthil chain the other day but only have 1 file, i'm not really sure if I can use the same file and file guide with my new stihl chain? I have a husky 357 but when i got the saw the spare chain they gave me was a sthil.

How do I find out exactly what file size and angle I need? Someone said check the box but I don't understand the chart, theres numbers and figures all over it. Any ideas?

 

[Matildasmate]

Hi i'm new to using chainsaws and sharpening angles and basiclaly anything to do with the chainsaw.

I put on a new sthil chain the other day but only have 1 file, i'm not really sure if I can use the same file and file guide with my new stihl chain? I have a husky 357 but when i got the saw the spare chain they gave me was a sthil.

How do I find out exactly what file size and angle I need? Someone said check the box but I don't understand the chart, theres numbers and figures all over it. Any ideas?

If it is standard 3/8 chain 13/64 , 404 chain 7/32 , 3/8 low pro 5/32 , how many cc's is your saw , what size chain is the stihl chain . Cheer's MM

 

[pbuehning]

Go to this link and it will identify your Stihl chain.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/identify.html

On the 3/8 Stihl would like you to use 13/16 instead of the 7/32 because it won't cut into the tie straps (that's what they say) as much when you get way back on the tooth.

1/4 inch = 5/32 file
3/8 picco narrow = 5/32 file
3/8 picco = 5/32 file
.325 = 3/16 file
3/8 - 7/32 or 13/64th file
.404 - 7/32 file

 

[Rick_uk]

The drive links just have the number 5 on each 1 but I did see 325 on the side of depth gauge/raker.And the packet my file and file gauge came in says .325" file. I know it sounds stupid and obvious, but I don't want to end up messing it up and making it blunt.

Does the info I wrote down sound correct then?

 

[SawTroll]

The drive links just have the number 5 on each 1 but I did see 325 on the side of depth gauge/raker.And the packet my file and file gauge came in says .325" file. I know it sounds stupid and obvious, but I don't want to end up messing it up and making it blunt.

Does the info I wrote down sound correct then?

It sounds like it is a .325, .058gauge (1.5mm) - a 3/16" file is correct for that.

Btw, I would have wanted a 3/8" set-up on that saw.....

 

[Rick_uk]

To be honest I don't really know how it all works, i've only ever done my chainsaw course whichlasted 1 week, I used a husky then and there was only 1 file to use which the course tutor gave to me for the week.

Now that i've got my own saw theres all sorts of confusion, i've got a file gauge with 2 rollers on it but I still managed to bugger up 1 of my chains which is now blunt and have to push on to make it work, which I know is bad for the engine.

So I replaced my blunt chain with a new stihl chain which is now also becoming blunt so just wanted to know exaclty what was up. My new boss is never even around to ask what to do and how to do it properly. Theres only 2 of us working and both inexperienced.Blind leading the blind.

 

[Al Smith]

There are at least a zillion posts about filing chains on just this one forum alone.The only way to get good at it is to do it.Oregons web site has some pretty good information concerning same.

 

[tree_beard]

what gives?

if you did your NPTC cs30 and cs31 course (which i assume is what your 'chainsaw course' was) you should have been taught and assesed on all the basic aspects of chain/file selection and filing....

if they didnt teach you that stuff on the first day, you should report them to the NPTC as they are not doing their jobs, and we pay through the nose for the benefit of those qualifications.

hope its all going well in the welsh woods, hows the production this week?

 

[Rick_uk]

They did teach me what they were supposed to on my chainsaw course, but that was in september, and it was 5 days and 1 day assessment, I don't really think i'm supposed to be able to know every file size,angle and bit of information by taking a 5 day course where we had 20 minutes maximum to get used to doing it.

Like someone else said, it takes time to get used to it, and if theres nobody to show me then where else do i find out apart from the internet?

Production could be better, our "boss" is not even there 90% of the time so i don't have a clue what i'm supposed to be doing,looking for a new job with a differant employer, someone that has a bit of time for some guidance.

 

[tree_beard]

you ever find yourself in cornwall, give me a shout and we'll go cut some wood.

sharpen that chain little and often, touch it up whenever you fuel up the saw, dont wait til it gets dull. i find its way easier to sharpen and find your angles if there is still a bit of an edge to the cutters.

when youre home from work, try and bring your first chain back from the dead, it'll be good practice.

make cutting your job, and sharpening and saw maintenace your new hobby

 

[RiverRat2]

To be honest I don't really know how it all works, i've only ever done my chainsaw course whichlasted 1 week, I used a husky then and there was only 1 file to use which the course tutor gave to me for the week.

Now that i've got my own saw theres all sorts of confusion, i've got a file gauge with 2 rollers on it but I still managed to bugger up 1 of my chains which is now blunt and have to push on to make it work, which I know is bad for the engine.

So I replaced my blunt chain with a new stihl chain which is now also becoming blunt so just wanted to know exaclty what was up. My new boss is never even around to ask what to do and how to do it properly. Theres only 2 of us working and both inexperienced.Blind leading the blind.

I just have to ask BTW ,,,,,,,Why are you dulling the chain so quickly??? what service are you using the saw in?????

 

[Rick_uk]

riverrat, I did it by filing incorrectly I guess, I have a file guide but must have been putting pressure on the wrong part of the file, it's something that needs to be done alot to learn I suppose, but I havn't got anyone to watch do it properly, i've taken my saw to the shop to be tuned and asked them to sharpen it aswell. see how it goes.

The trees I have been using it on,oak,larch,beech and birch. some quite rough bark but not enough to dull my chain that quickly, i think it must have been my angle that blunted it. instead of doing the working edge, i think my file was sat in the little groove.

 

[RiverRat2]

riverrat, I did it by filing incorrectly I guess, I have a file guide but must have been putting pressure on the wrong part of the file, it's something that needs to be done alot to learn I suppose, but I havn't got anyone to watch do it properly, i've taken my saw to the shop to be tuned and asked them to sharpen it aswell. see how it goes.

The trees I have been using it on,oak,larch,beech and birch. some quite rough bark but not enough to dull my chain that quickly, i think it must have been my angle that blunted it. instead of doing the working edge, i think my file was sat in the little groove.

I got ya,,, but a blunted point on a cutter is usually the result of either too long between touch-ups or hitting foreign objects, like metal dirt, or rocks,,, is why I ask,,, and not a result of improper filing technique,,,,,,, some species of trees entrain alot of dirt in the bark or if you cut too close to the root flare without first removing the bark with an axe or other suitable tool it will give you the same result,,,, even if the dirt is encountered when bucking out from mud or dirt on the downed spars should be cleaned or avoided when possible.....

Hope that helps,,, when you file put the file in the gullet @ 30* angle paralell with the bar, follow the existing contour if you catch it in time, usually all it takes is two strokes out of the cutter, with a slight twist, get yourself a file cleaner brush to remove the build up every so often,,,,

Practice makes perfect!!!!!!

River

 

[Roteiche]

I got ya,,, but a blunted point on a cutter is usually the result of either too long between touch-ups or hitting foreign objects, like metal dirt, or rocks,,, is why I ask,,, and not a result of improper filing technique,,,,,,, some species of trees entrain alot of dirt in the bark or if you cut too close to the root flare without first removing the bark with an axe or other suitable tool it will give you the same result,,,, even if the dirt is encountered when bucking out from mud or dirt on the downed spars should be cleaned or avoided when possible.....

Hope that helps,,, when you file put the file in the gullet @ 30* angle paralell with the bar, follow the existing contour if you catch it in time, usually all it takes is two strokes out of the cutter, with a slight twist, get yourself a file cleaner brush to remove the build up every so oftern too,,,,

Practice makes perfect!!!!!!



River

Hi,

I think, that`s the way.

Roteiche

 

[Bermie]

if you did your NPTC cs30 and cs31 course (which i assume is what your 'chainsaw course' was) you should have been taught and assesed on all the basic aspects of chain/file selection and filing....

if they didnt teach you that stuff on the first day, you should report them to the NPTC as they are not doing their jobs, and we pay through the nose for the benefit of those qualifications.

hope its all going well in the welsh woods, hows the production this week?

They did teach me what they were supposed to on my chainsaw course, but that was in september, and it was 5 days and 1 day assessment, I don't really think i'm supposed to be able to know every file size,angle and bit of information by taking a 5 day course where we had 20 minutes maximum to get used to doing it.

Like someone else said, it takes time to get used to it, and if theres nobody to show me then where else do i find out apart from the internet?

Production could be better, our "boss" is not even there 90% of the time so i don't have a clue what i'm supposed to be doing,looking for a new job with a differant employer, someone that has a bit of time for some guidance.

Ditto Tree beard!

Dude, not to get at you, I think you are doing the right thing coming to ask questions, and from your other post looking for support as you venture out into your new career in forestry/arb. It is not easy at first, and fluency and skill will build with time, never be afraid to ask questions and seek advice!

BUT if you paid good $$$ for your course and I KNOW the SC30 assessment was at least 45 pounds, you should be able to work through these questions you are asking with the practical you were given and your course paperwork. I still use the books and charts when I am unsure but I do know how interpret them.

Was your course a Lantra Awards course? Did you do a seperate NPTC assessments with an independant assessor?
Was your CS30 and 31 taught in the one week or did you do the courses separately?

If you passed your NPTC sc30 assessment and you are asking these questions I must really question the instruction and assessment you had!

I know this , I teach Lantra Awards maintenance and operation and felling and I am an NPTC assessor/verifier.

Again, you are on the right track with your approach, better to realize when you don't know enough and seek help than to fuddle through and either hurt yourself or get totally frustrated and disillusioned!

 

[SawTroll]

riverrat, I did it by filing incorrectly I guess, I have a file guide but must have been putting pressure on the wrong part of the file, it's something that needs to be done alot to learn I suppose, but I havn't got anyone to watch do it properly, i've taken my saw to the shop to be tuned and asked them to sharpen it aswell. see how it goes.

The trees I have been using it on,oak,larch,beech and birch. some quite rough bark but not enough to dull my chain that quickly, i think it must have been my angle that blunted it. instead of doing the working edge, i think my file was sat in the little groove.

Just a tought, are you sure the chain pitch on your saw is the same as the one you used at that course, 3/8" vs .325"?

A file that is meant for a 3/8" chain will surely dull a .325, if you don't force it to cut low, into the gullet (I do sometimes, with rocked out chains) - it will be even worse with a roller guide that is meant for a 3/8" chain