New Fiskar's SS with long handle

[ryan_marine]

I would like to have both the 11 and the 27. I would use the 11 to pound wedges while droping trees and the 27 to split some wood. Or move a tree to where I wanted it with wedges.

Ray

 

[trailmaker]

I've never had a problem hitting a toe with ground level, maybe I've just grown efficient at it, dunno. Maybe I just spread my feet on the swing or I'm naturally aiming through the wood to the ground, not at my feet.

When I put a round up on a block, I feel like I'm not getting the same speed out of the swing because the distance the head falls is shorter. This is another big reason I now split on the ground. When I was a wee whippersnapper, my dad taught me to split on a block and that was the way I always did it for a long time. I think the reason I switched was that I began trying to split rounds into quarters in the field after cross-cutting (before moving them at all ) which was usually much easier on the ground right at the cutting site. I then noticed how easy it was on the back to do it this way and noticed the swing was usually more powerful to boot. Now it feels awkward for me up on a block.

Another thing that always makes me cringe a bit is people picking the axe/maul up from in front of them, like an executioner beheading someone. Seems so hard on the back to do that. I always just flip the maul up from the side and behind. Seems like wasted energy to start it moving twice on one swing, not to mention less speed.

I started out splitting with a traditional 6 or 8lb maul using a roundhouse swing but switched to overhead because I found the asymmetrical swing was tough on my back. When I got the SS I hoped the lighter weight would allow me to go back to roundhouse swings. My roundhouse swing is a bit less accurate than my overhead, however, and roundhousing the short Fiskars led to some glancing blows and close calls with the toes. Hopefully the new lightweight, long handled Fiskars will allow me to go back to roundhousing. I feel like a get much more of a "whip cracking" effect and more speed with a round house swing.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I started out splitting with a traditional 6 or 8lb maul using a roundhouse swing but switched to overhead because I found the asymmetrical swing was tough on my back. When I got the SS I hoped the lighter weight would allow me to go back to roundhouse swings. My roundhouse swing is a bit less accurate than my overhead, however, and roundhousing the short Fiskars led to some glancing blows and close calls with the toes. Hopefully the new lightweight, long handled Fiskars will allow me to go back to roundhousing. I feel like a get much more of a "whip cracking" effect and more speed with a round house swing.

Round housing swing is going to "kill" you with a FSS. It is definitely not designed for such swing. This axe is an engineered PRECISION TOOL. Accuracy is part of the performance. Round housing can't give you the accuracy needed.
The increased velocity created by round housing have to come off you hand vrist now.

 

[biggenius29]

Holy crap is my head spinning. I actually feel smarter just by reading this post.

Usually I read in the OT forum and I end up feeling dumber.

 

[CountryBoy19]

I do not see your point is making my calculation easier...
I am looking forward to see your calculations about energy impact from arm weight!!

BTW, start taking arm weight into account, is almost like start learning the impact science of Karate, so good luck there....I do not want my arm to provide any kinetic energy to the log, I leave that to the axe head.

Of course you are right about the weight of the handle...If one want to split hairs. The handle of a FSS, is only about 1,5 lbs....point of gravity is about 2.5" into the shaft from center of head...so basically there is about 5.5 lbs of total "almost head weight".

The point that he was trying to make is that you aren't going to achieve double the speed by cutting the mass of the head in half. There are other masses involved that your body must accellerate as well. Your body can only transmit so much momentum to the axe. Cutting the head mass in half is only part of the equation. If you have a heavier head, you can transfer more momentum because the head is a larger part of the overall moving mass. But at the same time the energy will be higher on the lighter head, but how much higher is the question. Your chart just provide an example of a simple, ideal system, whereas the arms and handle have no mass for the body to accelerate, all the mass is in the head. That is simply not the case in real life.

I'm not providing any calculations, I'm too lazy to do so. BTW, you provided center of gravity, which is irrelevant to the point I was trying to make. The point I was trying to make is that you can take the mass of the arms and handle and convert it to an equivalent mass at the head. Obviously that won't completely reflect the impact energy when the head hits wood, but it will reflect the speed that your body is able to get the axe head up to. Of course, that is all assuming that the axe head/arm/handle are all inline when they're being accelerated. If you have fancy computer programs that can analyze the swing of an axe and break it down into the biomechanis of the body and the transfer of momentum then go ahead and provide that info. But until then we can only make broad assumptions and marginally accurate calculations.

 

[farmerdoug]

learned from akkamaan

I saw Akkamaan's video and made the circles larger. This way you are gauranteed to never hit the ground. I chop directly on concrete and have never hit the ground. The wood in front will always catch the handle which keeps you off the concrete. If you like it taller, then put another circle of logs on top. I will go 3 circles high before splitting:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zdfzb2EwQho

The above video is the smaller splitting axe. The 4 1/2 lb axe doesn't get stuck as easy and will do more difficult splits.

Either way you can easily argue that Fiskars is better than hydraulics. I know many people start talking about iron wood, but I have a difficult time finding anything but Alder, maple and Fir. Fir is the most difficult to split and this is what I used in this video.

I unload the truck and stack it all in circles. minimal handling. If you stack up to 3 high, then 1 pickup load is maybe for circles of wood. You then split each layer and load them into the tractor bucket and work your way down till it is gone.

If you don't want to sweep, then put a tarp down on the bottom.

Good job for the idea akkamaan, you changed my life when splitting firewood. I actually have fun.

Just think, you have a longer reach with a 36" handle = bigger circles. I like it!!

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I saw Akkamaan's video and made the circles larger. This way you are gauranteed to never hit the ground. I chop directly on concrete and have never hit the ground. The wood in front will always catch the handle which keeps you off the concrete. If you like it taller, then put another circle of logs on top. I will go 3 circles high before splitting:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zdfzb2EwQho

The above video is the smaller splitting axe. The 4 1/2 lb axe doesn't get stuck as easy and will do more difficult splits.

Either way you can easily argue that Fiskars is better than hydraulics. I know many people start talking about iron wood, but I have a difficult time finding anything but Alder, maple and Fir. Fir is the most difficult to split and this is what I used in this video.

I unload the truck and stack it all in circles. minimal handling. If you stack up to 3 high, then 1 pickup load is maybe for circles of wood. You then split each layer and load them into the tractor bucket and work your way down till it is gone.

If you don't want to sweep, then put a tarp down on the bottom.

Good job for the idea akkamaan, you changed my life when splitting firewood. I actually have fun.

Just think, you have a longer reach with a 36" handle = bigger circles. I like it!!

Thank You Doug for such nice cred's....I watched your video and I had a blast...so Great to see the bungee around so biiig logs....

Like your tarp idea too..... unfortunately I do not have a concrete floor to split on....my driveway slopes to much....

BTW you have a PM on Youtube from me

Per A

 

[fields_mj]

Round housing swing is going to "kill" you with a FSS. It is definitely not designed for such swing. This axe is an engineered PRECISION TOOL. Accuracy is part of the performance. Round housing can't give you the accuracy needed.
The increased velocity created by round housing have to come off you hand vrist now.

This is exactly what I'm concerned about. I use a round house swing also. My question is: When splitting wood such as white oak, hickory, or ash will a single blow from a properly swung FSS split a larger round than a round house blow from a #6 or #8 maul? The round house swing is going to put a LOT more momentum into the head, but is the FSS design so much better that it will split as big or bigger rounds in as many or fewer asymetrical hits?

As of right now, if I hit it 2 or 3 times with a #6 maul and it doesn't even start to pop open, I set it asside to get noodled with the 064. If they pop appart in one swing, I set the maul down and pick up an el cheapo ax from the hardware store and continue on my way. I don't get the chance to do that much as anything that will fit through an 8" ~ 10" square doesn't get split. I usually cut the stuff that nobody else wants to mess with, wich means the 20"+ oak tree trunks. They burn great, but they take some work to get them busted up. I can noodle once through a 20" log in about 15 sec as opposed to spending 5 min trying to split it that first time. What I'm getting at is that I'm just not convinced that a FSS is going to make a noticable difference in how long or how much effort it takes me to get a truckload of wood cut, and $50+ is a lot of money to spend on a tool that's not going to make much of a difference. From what I can tell, the FSS is great at splitting what I would call smaller pieces of fire wood. Stuf that's in the 8" to 10" range. What I have seen being split in the videos is all pretty straight grained stuff that I would probably use an axe on instead of a maul. I'm still not sold on it. I'd have to try one out first.

 

[Dalmatian90]

When splitting wood such as white oak, hickory, or ash will a single blow from a properly swung FSS split a larger round than a round house blow from a #6 or #8 maul?

If a single blow from that round house swung maul will split the log in a single blow, so will the FSS.

 

[IndyIan]

If a 36" handle is nice, this must be better!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2WlwE4LV-0&NR=1

Seriously though, I might pick up a 36" one, I like to split on the ground with out bending over too much.
And I can see the logic in going to a lighter head.
Its sort of like picking a skipping stone... Too light and you can't throw it any faster and it bogs on the first couple skips, too heavy and you can't get it up to speed to get good distance. A stone with the right weight allows you to put maximum energy into it and will skip the furthest...
I split better with a 6lb'r than an 8lb head, maybe I'll put more energy into a 4lb one?

 

[AKKAMAAN]

And I can see the logic in going to a lighter head.
Its sort of like picking a skipping stone... Too light and you can't throw it any faster and it bogs on the first couple skips, too heavy and you can't get it up to speed to get good distance. A stone with the right weight allows you to put maximum energy into it and will skip the furthest...
I split better with a 6lb'r than an 8lb head, maybe I'll put more energy into a 4lb one?

I love your analogy about skipping rocks!! Very nice illustration!!

The video clip is hilarious too!!

 

[flatnesr]

What wood?

I have not been around a maul like this. What type of wood are you splitting with it? I am mostly splitting oak, hackberry, and hedge. The head of my garage sale 6# maul came off today (fiberglass handle). I have a 12 or 13# monster maul (steel handle) when I feel froggy which isn't very often anymore. I will be in the market for a new maul and would give the Fiskar a look if it will handle hardwoods. I don't like to noodle if I don't have to.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I have not been around a maul like this. What type of wood are you splitting with it? I am mostly splitting oak, hackberry, and hedge. The head of my garage sale 6# maul came off today (fiberglass handle). I have a 12 or 13# monster maul (steel handle) when I feel froggy which isn't very often anymore. I will be in the market for a new maul and would give the Fiskar a look if it will handle hardwoods. I don't like to noodle if I don't have to.

It is Douglas Fir.....

 

[howellhandmade]

I have not been around a maul like this. What type of wood are you splitting with it? I am mostly splitting oak, hackberry, and hedge. The head of my garage sale 6# maul came off today (fiberglass handle). I have a 12 or 13# monster maul (steel handle) when I feel froggy which isn't very often anymore. I will be in the market for a new maul and would give the Fiskar a look if it will handle hardwoods. I don't like to noodle if I don't have to.

I split mostly oak, locust, and cherry with mine. The oak and locust split easily. Large cherry rounds (30"+) can be more difficult. I still split everything that doesn't require noodling with the Fiskars, but am more likely to split pieces off the edges. Before the Fiskars, I split many cords with a long-handled 6# maul and kept it close by for a while even after adopting the Fiskars, thinking that it would split pieces that the Fiskars wouldn't. After a period of going back and forth between the two, though, I concluded that this was not true. For me, good technique with the Fiskars, meaning a low release with a sharp wrist snap, is more effective than any of my other mauls in any wood. Since splitting wood with a maul is a skill that depends heavily on technique and experience it will be impossible to get beyond empirical results. Whatever the tool, some will prefer it, others will abhor it.

 

[trailmaker]

Round housing swing is going to "kill" you with a FSS. It is definitely not designed for such swing. This axe is an engineered PRECISION TOOL. Accuracy is part of the performance. Round housing can't give you the accuracy needed.
The increased velocity created by round housing have to come off you hand vrist now.

Interesting, I had assumed that the Fiskars was superior in all situations, it's only shortcoming being the short handle. I figured that a long handled version, allowing a safer round house swing, would out perform a maul swung in the same way. I have a lot of wood to split so when that 36in SS comes out I'll do some experimenting.

 

[howellhandmade]

Interesting, I had assumed that the Fiskars was superior in all situations, it's only shortcoming being the short handle. I figured that a long handled version, allowing a safer round house swing, would out perform a maul swung in the same way. I have a lot of wood to split so when that 36in SS comes out I'll do some experimenting.

You can take a roundhouse swing with the Fiskars, but it's not the same sort of timing as with a long, heavy maul. With the latter, you can't keep as much lag in your wrists and the mass of the tool inhibits the flail action that is quite pronounced with the Fiskars. Adding wrist lag and snap to a roundhouse swing can be effective with the Fiskars, it just requires care to release the lag low in the swing so that if you miss you don't hit yourself. The Fiskars responds best to more of a "sports" swing, like a golf club, where a short, compact, snappy swing can produce better results overall than a long, loopy one.

 

[IPLUMB]

Anybody find these on the shelf yet? Thanks

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Anybody find these on the shelf yet? Thanks

Nope, nothing yet at my local ACE Hardware store....I think it can take a while before will see them on the shelfs....usually online sells get started first....to create interest and demand...
Keep look'n online is my advice...

 

[branchbuzzer]

You can take a roundhouse swing with the Fiskars, but it's not the same sort of timing as with a long, heavy maul. With the latter, you can't keep as much lag in your wrists and the mass of the tool inhibits the flail action that is quite pronounced with the Fiskars.

Do you notice less of a difference to the Fiskars using a 6# maul rather than an 8# ( If you've tried both wts. )

 

[rwbinbc]

A 8lb maul and I get winded after alittle bit, The fiskar and I cant split for a while. But lately I have been really lazy and the fiskars will probally get Me winded Now. Two years ago We where cutting, splitting, and delivering 3 cords a day with two guys one using the fiskars and one 6lb maul. That was a good workout for a winter day. Now I've gained over 40lbs. Sound like life to Me.

I would like to know a release date on the new axes as I still have the first one they came out with about 6-7 years ago and it in need of a replacement. Its got to be close to an inch smaller as I file it alot and it doesn't work like it used too.

If anyone has a date or website please im Me Thanks Rob