I appreciate all the input. I should have known better than to buy from a box store just because of the service issues alone. I honestly didn't realize that the Stihl dealership would provide that level of service. Given my crippling limitations with regard to working on whatever i end up with I believe that's the route I will take, assuming the store will refund my money.
New guy needs a saw recommendation
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346xp
I think if your cutting a couple cords of wood a year you need to learn a little about the saw your running like how to tune the carb and sharpen a chain...
Anyhow I would suggest that you get a 346xp or a ms260/026. I think nmurph is around your 300-400 budget for a saw on a rebuilt 346xp. I would message him and buy one of his rebuilt used saws. they will be ready to run and you'll get the best bang for your buck. otherwise find a used 026/260 or even 036/360 depending on the size of the wood.
Keep in mind that even if you don't know anything about chainsaws you can come here to get answers to your questions. Hell I had a poulan Wild Thing and knew nothing 5 years ago... Now I'm doing full rebuilds on 90cc saws! Besides would you like to learn and be able to fix in the field; or have to stop cutting and return to dealer everytime somthing goes wrong and spend more money??? Coming here to learn and ask questions is the easy part after picking and buying a saw!
I think if your cutting a couple cords of wood a year you need to learn a little about the saw your running like how to tune the carb and sharpen a chain...
Anyhow I would suggest that you get a 346xp or a ms260/026. I think nmurph is around your 300-400 budget for a saw on a rebuilt 346xp. I would message him and buy one of his rebuilt used saws. they will be ready to run and you'll get the best bang for your buck. otherwise find a used 026/260 or even 036/360 depending on the size of the wood.
Keep in mind that even if you don't know anything about chainsaws you can come here to get answers to your questions. Hell I had a poulan Wild Thing and knew nothing 5 years ago... Now I'm doing full rebuilds on 90cc saws! Besides would you like to learn and be able to fix in the field; or have to stop cutting and return to dealer everytime somthing goes wrong and spend more money??? Coming here to learn and ask questions is the easy part after picking and buying a saw!
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Trailtrimmer
ArboristSite Operative
Good call!
Budget $100 for safety glasses, chaps and gloves too. The chaps may look silly, but they are cheaper than a hospital visit. Also ask for tips on storage while you are there. It's pretty important to only use fresh gas and drain it if it won't be used for a month or more.
sunfish
Fish Head
Husqvarna 346xp
From a 'real' chainsaw dealer.
From a 'real' chainsaw dealer.
tolman_paul
ArboristSite Guru
I'd agree given your mechanical skills that you should stick with a new saw from a saw dealer. You need to factor in safety gear and a couple spare chains, file and file guide into your budget. If you blow your budget on the biggest possible saw and don't have spare chains and the ability to sharpen the chain, then you've got a less capable tool than a smaller saw with a sharp chain.
You need something simple and reliable, forget used saws and modifying mufflers. A good dealer should be able to get you set up properly and show you how to tune your saw, keep the chain tension correct and how sharpen a chain. You can mow a lawn with a dull blade, but a chainsaw absolutely has to have a sharp chain to cut well.
You need something simple and reliable, forget used saws and modifying mufflers. A good dealer should be able to get you set up properly and show you how to tune your saw, keep the chain tension correct and how sharpen a chain. You can mow a lawn with a dull blade, but a chainsaw absolutely has to have a sharp chain to cut well.
Agreed.
I owned a used Stihl a few years ago and let a "friend" borrow it. It was stolen out of his yard the next day. Allegedly. I had done some research on that saw and was learning a bit about how it worked but all that information has abandoned me. Starting from scratch.
I wish I had thought to come here before the debacle with this new saw.
To the replies above about needing dealer support... Blah blah blah...:chatter: If you have the willingness to learn you don't need anyone but yourself, a few hand tools, and this forum to fix any saw problem you might encounter! In fact most of the newbies to this site could learn most of what you need by buying and rebuilding a saw for themselves! It's how I learned to fix and trouble shoot on my own... I think people put way to much emphasis on professional support when it'll put you ahead to learn a little now.
Also buying a less powerful, heavier, non-pro saw new from the dealer and adding all the saftey gear will certainly push you over a $400 budget. Do yourself a favor and get a good used pro saw that has better air filtration, will last longer, and give you a better power to weight ratio. Not to mention you'll actually have enough cash left for the saftey gear.
ALSO!!!! IF, you go to a stihl dealer and buy a consumer saw (ms250 or ms290 etc), you'll need a compressor to blow your filter off after every time you use it b/c the filters clog up with dust and choak the saw for air. The carbs also come stock leaned out way to far! So to make the saw reliable you need to pull the limiter caps, retune carb. As for muffler mods: it keeps heat off the cylinder and muffler so it's a good idea. By the time you do either you'll void your warrenty!
Also buying a less powerful, heavier, non-pro saw new from the dealer and adding all the saftey gear will certainly push you over a $400 budget. Do yourself a favor and get a good used pro saw that has better air filtration, will last longer, and give you a better power to weight ratio. Not to mention you'll actually have enough cash left for the saftey gear.
ALSO!!!! IF, you go to a stihl dealer and buy a consumer saw (ms250 or ms290 etc), you'll need a compressor to blow your filter off after every time you use it b/c the filters clog up with dust and choak the saw for air. The carbs also come stock leaned out way to far! So to make the saw reliable you need to pull the limiter caps, retune carb. As for muffler mods: it keeps heat off the cylinder and muffler so it's a good idea. By the time you do either you'll void your warrenty!
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bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
I agree it isn't extremely complex to be able to work on your own saw and doesn't take a large $ investment in tools,, but if he doesn't have interest in it what is the purpose. Maybe instead of working on working on saws maybe he should spend that same time learning how to file his chain?
An MS250 that has been suggested by a few people and it has a very good power to weight ratio. I also don't buy that hour wise longevity comparison of pro vs homeowner. Why do you think you can put more hours on a new 026 vs 025 (MS260 vs MS250, MS260 vs MS250, pro brand y vs homeowner brand y saw, etc). If neither saw is abused or straight gassed and it runs many many hours what will be the critical areas that will first show signs of fatigue on either saw minus fuel related issues (carb, fuel line, impulse line etc)? I would have to say rings, seals and bearings? What deficiencies in these areas do the homeowner saws have that aren't found on the pro saws?
Do you need a compressor if your own an 026 vs an MS250? How much more often do you have to blow off your filter on an 025 vs an 026? The key to keeping your air filter clean on even saws that may have a bit of an anemic air filter is to keep the chain sharp. I've sold a few 025's to friends and I'm not saying they cut a lot of wood, but about the only maintenance they have done on them is putting gas and oil in them along with bar maintenance. If they have cleaned the air filters I don't think it amounted to more than hitting it on their leg.
I've used stihl in my post because thats what I'm most familiar with, but imo buying a new saw from a dealer with a warranty is this guy's safest bet whether it be a husky, dolmar, or stihl. He can then focus learning to sharpen his chain, about ppe, etc. vs expending a ton of time learning about the mechanics and wrenching on saws.
user 64030
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Just curious, but isn't a bit late for that? He is posting on AS in the CHAINSAW forum. If he doesn't unplug the computer and stop reading CAD will have him... CAD has us all we only have yet to realize it.
____________________
On a serious note some good advice so far (except maybe those husky posts :msp_sneaky: ) Actually you are better off w/ a dealer be it Stihl Husky or Dolmar. I would opt for the MS261 over any of the other Stihls mentioned so far. Not because it is a PRO saw, but because it is as powerful as a 290 and smaller easier to handle... I can't comment on the Husky models but in general they make a good product, even the box store models are not too bad (stay at teh high end of the list though).
dw
Hermann
ArboristSite Operative
ROFLMAO! you got that right, I am proof positive of that for sure.. a few issues with my homeowner saws, and before you know it I have 2 pro saws!
I returned my junk saw. Very quick and simple process.
I looked at the Husky's they had in stock, the 450 is $400 which is right near what I want to spend.
I'm pretty sold on the Stihl plan. I have two dealers in town and they are the only dedicated outdoor equipment places close by. Of course my budget limits me to only a few options with the 250 giving me more room for PPE. I don't think I can justify the cost of a new 260 at this point although I am confident not having to buy firewood will offset the cost of whatever I buy in the long run.
I've been poring over threads here and other places and there is so much drama over the 250 and the 290 is cumbersome, etc... It's mind numbing.
My son is looking forward to us cutting and splitting our own wood (until he actually does some splitting I bet) , and I think that's pretty cool, now I just need to buy a saw.
I looked at the Husky's they had in stock, the 450 is $400 which is right near what I want to spend.
I'm pretty sold on the Stihl plan. I have two dealers in town and they are the only dedicated outdoor equipment places close by. Of course my budget limits me to only a few options with the 250 giving me more room for PPE. I don't think I can justify the cost of a new 260 at this point although I am confident not having to buy firewood will offset the cost of whatever I buy in the long run.
I've been poring over threads here and other places and there is so much drama over the 250 and the 290 is cumbersome, etc... It's mind numbing.
My son is looking forward to us cutting and splitting our own wood (until he actually does some splitting I bet) , and I think that's pretty cool, now I just need to buy a saw.
Trailtrimmer
ArboristSite Operative
Don't overthink it. Buy the 250, your gear and get cutting. The saw will be fine if you keep the filter clean, the chain sharp and the gas fresh. They work fine, we are all just a bunch of saw snobs that think anything less than a pro saw is useles. They sell a ton of those saws, they work perfectly well to cut a few cords of wood a year.
I suppose I'm a glutton for punishment, but I'm really thinking of buying this- http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192321-21.htm. Slow night at work, so I actually read the entire thread..
The return process for the other saw was painless and it seems that this one is of a little better quality. My thinking is that I can probably get through a few months with it while I save 5-600 for a better quality saw- assuming I don't get a lemon. I can learn some things using a saw that is inexpensive and almost disposable at it's price point and if I destroy it it won't be soul crushing. The difference in expense now can be put towards some PPE and other paraphernelia then in a couple months I'll have two saws and some experience.
The return process for the other saw was painless and it seems that this one is of a little better quality. My thinking is that I can probably get through a few months with it while I save 5-600 for a better quality saw- assuming I don't get a lemon. I can learn some things using a saw that is inexpensive and almost disposable at it's price point and if I destroy it it won't be soul crushing. The difference in expense now can be put towards some PPE and other paraphernelia then in a couple months I'll have two saws and some experience.
Uncle John
Addicted to ArboristSite
Maybe you are a glutton for punishment!
I would much rather buy a pro saw from one of the guys on this site who rebuilds, reconditions than what you are thinking about doing.
You always have this forum to help you with any problems.
I would much rather buy a pro saw from one of the guys on this site who rebuilds, reconditions than what you are thinking about doing.
You always have this forum to help you with any problems.
tallguys
Addicted to ArboristSite
Quit while you're ahead, the only thing that you will learn here is how to throw away good money after bad.
Unless your goal is to learn how to tinker, but even then I still suggest going with at least a decent saw to start. Easier to learn golf basics from the fairway than in the rough.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is anybody actually listening to his needs? I mean seriously all you can see is the classic AS frenzy cracking down on homeowner & semipro/farmer saws.
So with your description you will be equally happy with any 35-50 cc saw by one of the major manufacturers (Dolmar/Makita, Echo/Shindaiwa, Emak/Oleo Mac/Efco, Husqvarna/Jonsered/Mc Culloch, Solo, Stihl, Tanaka/Hitachi). Many people here have demostrated that they have cut for years much larger amounts of wood with a small saw before comming here and being told that they have been living on an illusion.
Put simlpy you don't need a pro saw!
Good luck and spend the money not only on a saw but your personal safety is equaly important so buy good ppe (personal protection equipment, chaps, eye&ear, hard toe shoes, etc.) first and then with the rest your saw. Think of it as the same as wearing body armor, a saw is equally lethal.
7
So with your description you will be equally happy with any 35-50 cc saw by one of the major manufacturers (Dolmar/Makita, Echo/Shindaiwa, Emak/Oleo Mac/Efco, Husqvarna/Jonsered/Mc Culloch, Solo, Stihl, Tanaka/Hitachi). Many people here have demostrated that they have cut for years much larger amounts of wood with a small saw before comming here and being told that they have been living on an illusion.
Put simlpy you don't need a pro saw!
Good luck and spend the money not only on a saw but your personal safety is equaly important so buy good ppe (personal protection equipment, chaps, eye&ear, hard toe shoes, etc.) first and then with the rest your saw. Think of it as the same as wearing body armor, a saw is equally lethal.
7
Agreed, the husky 450 would be about right. The point about a pro saw lasting longer is a stretch, the 450, with proper care, would last him a lifetime with his amount of use. Now if he wants a pro saw, that's a different story.
By the way I had a husky 445 for a while,(same saw I think with less c.c.) very nice little saw, kind of wish I had kept it.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
Agree, you really don't need a pro saw
I checked out a friend's MS250 this week for him, and I was impressed that it showed 160 psi on my compression tester. And you could certainly feel that in the starter rope. Sweet little runner. I'm not sure that my 261 will top that, and if so, not by much.
The 250 is also quite a bit lighter due to the plastic. But I doubt the OP will have any issues with it unless it's dropped on its side. I'd like to see a chain guard on it though.
Yes the air filter on the 250 is way cheaper and simpler than the 261. My 039 filter is similar as was the one on my 029S. I just got in the habit of blowing them clean after every day's work. And I did use an air compressor for that, but there are other ways to clean it as noted earlier in this thread. As the filter gets clogged, the saw will get hard to start. Keep it clean and you're good to go.
If I were the OP, I'd go for the 250 unless a nice used 260 pro can be found for a similar price. I think the 261, which would likely have to be bought new, would be overkill.
I checked out a friend's MS250 this week for him, and I was impressed that it showed 160 psi on my compression tester. And you could certainly feel that in the starter rope. Sweet little runner. I'm not sure that my 261 will top that, and if so, not by much.
The 250 is also quite a bit lighter due to the plastic. But I doubt the OP will have any issues with it unless it's dropped on its side. I'd like to see a chain guard on it though.
Yes the air filter on the 250 is way cheaper and simpler than the 261. My 039 filter is similar as was the one on my 029S. I just got in the habit of blowing them clean after every day's work. And I did use an air compressor for that, but there are other ways to clean it as noted earlier in this thread. As the filter gets clogged, the saw will get hard to start. Keep it clean and you're good to go.
If I were the OP, I'd go for the 250 unless a nice used 260 pro can be found for a similar price. I think the 261, which would likely have to be bought new, would be overkill.
Trailtrimmer
ArboristSite Operative
Overthinking it completely. The MS250 will last you for years and years if you treat it well. You wouldn't believe the abuse we put our trail groups little MS180's through and they keep going. Stihl isn't going to risk it's name by turning out junk that won't cut a few cords of wood a year.
If you want to go directly to a pro saw and don't mind owning an ugly duckling that's get a brand new heart:
http://www.arboristsite.com/classifieds.php?do=viewitem&itemid=3334
Neal does a fantastic job rebuilding, while it won't be pretty, that saw will bring a smile to your face.
