New guy with a crazy 372xp question

[JimMorrison]

Don't know. It was too depressing to read the whole thread. I'm guessing the OP would have been a lot better off buying the saw you have listed in the classifieds. I wish the OP all the best, and hope he gets it sorted out. The 372 is a great saw, and it would be very disappointing to obtain one that was junk. If you are buying a new saw, you are making an investment in the saw and the dealer. If you are buying a used saw, you are making an investment in the saw and the seller. If the seller is straight up, so will be the saw. I realize this is no help to the OP, but maybe somebody else will benefit.

 

[Kocherjj]

The saw is partially reassembled, and waiting for some screws which I found out were missing as I pieced it back together. This thread and site has been very helpful to me in the process.

I'd like to clarify that this saw worked great when I bought it used. It cut several cords of firewood and quite a few trees. The mechanic where I took it a year later to look at the oiler is the guy who destroyed it.

I was wondering if there is any reason NOT to use the old muffler with the extra scoop in it. As I read more here I'm guessing that will help the saw run stronger if the carb is tuned right. Does the size/location/type of hole make much difference? I do have a new muffler, but if the old one is actually a better choice, I'd just as soon use it.

 

[Log Hogger]

Also, I'm not really planning on doing anything further regarding the mechanic. He's an older guy who apparently has been running his shop there for decades and now has some serious medical issues, and I don't think he'd still be in business if this was his typical business model, and so I'm just going to let it go. I personally won't be going back but I think the right thing under the circumstances is to live and let live.

Those old guys are the worst, they've got the most experience in zeroing in on their mark. He made you for a guy who wouldn't give him any **** if he effed with you - that's his business model. The medical issues aren't a good reason to leave him alone, after all they didn't make him leave you alone, did they? I've got plenty of medical issues, and I never thought of them as a good excuse to swindle anyone on eBay or craigslist.

There's a Stihl dealer near me with a solid reputation of screwing customers in ways similar to how this parasite screwed you, and he's been in business for over 20 years. In any business where the workings of the product are a black box to the majority of customers, honest dealers are the exception, not the norm. Funny thing is, those parasitic dealers usually back down if a customer wises up to the con.

 

[JimMorrison]

The saw is partially reassembled, and waiting for some screws which I found out were missing as I pieced it back together. This thread and site has been very helpful to me in the process.

I'd like to clarify that this saw worked great when I bought it used. It cut several cords of firewood and quite a few trees. The mechanic where I took it a year later to look at the oiler is the guy who destroyed it.

I was wondering if there is any reason NOT to use the old muffler with the extra scoop in it. As I read more here I'm guessing that will help the saw run stronger if the carb is tuned right. Does the size/location/type of hole make much difference? I do have a new muffler, but if the old one is actually a better choice, I'd just as soon use it.

Congrats, it looks like you have made great progress. I agree with your decision to forget about {who was it?}. Hope your family and the new addition are doing well. I think you are correct about the old muffler being a muffler mod. It will be better, as long as your new carb is the fully adjustable type. Some carbs have limiter caps, that can be defeated, and some are adjustable stock. The more air the better, just gotta match it with the right amount of fuel. You are going to end up with a great saw, and the knowledge to keep it that way. Maybe your new addition will run it someday!

 

[little possum]

Is the scoop on the clutch side? Thats where I need to move mine. I enlarged the factory outlet, and it burnt the plastic

 

[danders7]

... Instead of the little metal slotted wheel, the drum has a sort of sprocket sticking out of it.

Judah, I think the clutch and the rim sprocket have just become separated. I'm pretty sure I can see it just to the right of a sparkplug in the last picture you posted back on page 2. From your last post I'm guessing you've just about got it back together so you've probably already figured this out.

 

[Kocherjj]

I actually have two clutch drums, one is the original one I had, (I assume. At least it is the same style) with the small slotted wheel which fits on over it, and I also have a spur drum. I guess since he kept so many parts it's only fair that he gave me another saws parts as well. :msp_razz: When I looked for a new clutch, I actually found it cheaper as a set with the drum and sprocket, so I have a new one anyhow.

You can see the scoop on the muffler in the two lower pictures on page 2. It is on the flywheel side of the saw, but it is shaped to blow the exhaust forward. The stock outlet has not been modified in shape or size, but the screen is removed.

I purchased the ebay carb that was recommended earlier. It does not have the stops in it, so I am wondering, how do I begin to adjust it? I know the husky manual says how to start with it one way, (I forget which way at the moment) and slowly adjust the other way as needed. It worked for me before, but without the stops will I ruin the saw turning the adjustment to one end of it's range and starting from there? What is the best way to go about it?

The new addition is doing great! I've forgotten what "free time" feels like, but he's such a huge blessing, always happy and active and I am looking forward to when we can go out and tackle projects together!

 

[rms61moparman]

I actually have two clutch drums, one is the original one I had, (I assume. At least it is the same style) with the small slotted wheel which fits on over it, and I also have a spur drum. I guess since he kept so many parts it's only fair that he gave me another saws parts as well. :msp_razz: When I looked for a new clutch, I actually found it cheaper as a set with the drum and sprocket, so I have a new one anyhow.

You can see the scoop on the muffler in the two lower pictures on page 2. It is on the flywheel side of the saw, but it is shaped to blow the exhaust forward. The stock outlet has not been modified in shape or size, but the screen is removed.

I purchased the ebay carb that was recommended earlier. It does not have the stops in it, so I am wondering, how do I begin to adjust it? I know the husky manual says how to start with it one way, (I forget which way at the moment) and slowly adjust the other way as needed. It worked for me before, but without the stops will I ruin the saw turning the adjustment to one end of it's range and starting from there? What is the best way to go about it?

The new addition is doing great! I've forgotten what "free time" feels like, but he's such a huge blessing, always happy and active and I am looking forward to when we can go out and tackle projects together!

1 to 1-1/4 turn out from lightly seated on both should get you started.

Mike

 

[Kocherjj]

Ok, another package of parts came this morning. I have the saw basically reassembled. I am still waiting for the bolts which hold the muffler to the cylinder, they are missing too. It seems like they are slightly larger thread size than all the other bolts on here.

However, I have a couple parts left over, and I was wondering if you guys could help identify what I missed. There are 4 thick plastic washers, a screw with a nonthreaded tip, and a rubber "button". For all I know these just ended up in the pile and don't even go with my saw, but the screw thread and head is the same as most of the other screws here. Anyway, here is a photo. Any help would be appreciated.

Edited to add:

Thanks for the carb adjustment advice moparman.

Possum, I was wrong about the muffler scoop. Guess I had my head on backwards. It is on the clutch side.

 

[danders7]

Muffler mod looks the same as I did. Do I understand correctly that you can't get the muffler support bracket bolts to turn? I was kind of surprised to see the threaded holes go all the way into inside of the muffler so the back of the bolts are open to the exhaust. I've always used anti-sieze on exhaust bolts. Haven't had any trouble with losing bolts, so far at least. If you can't get the bracket off, you can try soaking the bolts with a penetrating oil, but I'd be inclined to just use your old muffler. You can always try to get the bracket removed later. I ended up buying a new muffler to mod, so I have a spare unmodified muffler as well.


I don't know what most of your extra stuff is, but I think that little rubber button goes on the flywheel side of the case, in the lower right hand corner. I think the thin plastic part that goes over the flywheel has a bigger hole in it that rides on this rubber dodad.

 

[Justsaws]

The screw with the long un-threaded rod goes in the clutch side of the crankcase. It will end in a recessed hole in the gas tank/handle area and is a stop to keep people from pulling the gas tank/handle to far from the crank case.

The little rubber button goes on the flywheel side of the crankcase and keeps the crankcase from rubbing the gas tank. Big end between crankcase and gas tank, little end pulled through crank case.

I do not think the plastic washers go to that saw. They look like bar spacers that come on new saws during shipping.

 

[Craz z]

This has been a great thread for beginer saw builders. I looked around for this thread and it was buried so glad its back.

So how long til you pull the cord kocherjj?

 

[Kocherjj]

Thanks for the info! Button and screw are in place. I believe this saw is ready to go other than mounting the muffler and installing a new spark plug. The new plug and muffler screws should be here before the weekend.

One further question. The new fuel line is tightly curled, and wants to stay that way. I understand that this is the way it's supposed to be, but it's so tight that it lifts the fuel filter up off the bottom of the tank. I never looked at the old filter while the saw was working. Will it settle down when the saw runs? Or is it twisted too tight? It keeps lifting up and resting on a little "shelf" in the tank under the carb. How important is the length? It looks to me like if I cut about an inch and a half off the line, then it should hang to the bottom better. Is that an option?

 

[tlandrum]

leave the fuel line alone,dont cut it. it will limber up after its in fuel a while and work just fine.

 

[GeoffM]

While I agree the shop guy should reassemble the saw, I wouldn't trust the guy to put the saw back together properly. It sounds like he was shooting for a new saw sale to begin with; who knows what he might do to the saw?

:agree2::agree2:
geoff

 

[Kocherjj]

OK! The saw is fully assembled, and runs! I adjusted the low and high speed needles as Mike suggested. The low speed needle had to be backed out quite a bit to get the saw to run smoothly. The idle adjustment was fine.

I really don't know how best to adjust the high speed needle. When I back it out, smoke comes from the exhaust. When I tighten it up, the saw revs higher. According to the Husky manual I should find the "sweet spot" in between, but I'm not sure exactly where that is. There are lots of warnings about running it too lean, so I'm afraid I will err too much on the rich side. Are there any tips for tuning the carb "just right"? I don't want to use this saw until I am confident I won't be causing damage due to a bad carb setting.

 

[little possum]

Best to tune it in the wood. Make it burble and then turn it back to clear it out. I think Blsnelling has a few videos on tuning...
Found one..Maybe this will help?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BZkB9QQTJU

 

[Nitro-Fish]

You may want to take a look at Madsens shop & supply website, they have a good description for tuning saws under the saw tuning and repair tab. I like tuning with a tach, but if you don't have or know someone that has one, you can still get it close by ear. The search feature was not working for me earlier tonight, but if it's back, you may want to do a search on tuning.

 

[Kocherjj]

The saw is running great! I tuned it roughly by ear and then tuned it "in the wood" using a stack of black walnut logs. I love this saw! I think it cuts faster than ever, but considering it's been a year since I could use it that doesn't mean much.

Thank you SO much to everyone here who helped me get through this! I could never have done it without all the input and advice and tips and links available here. Thanks again!

 

[teatersroad]

Glad you took the bull by the horns there, good work. You can think of the whole show as penance for 'borrowing' your friends saw (as many threads about that as there are E-bay tales)