New to me 372XP

[Zero Gravity]

I just bought a used 372XP. The saw was owned by a landscaper and did not see much service. When I picked it up it was very dirty and the oil tank was empty. I dumped the gas and filled the chain oil. It took a little time for the oil to make it through the system, but made it. Now it looks like it oils too much. 10 to 15 drips on the bench after a 10 min warm up. Does anyone know what the oil pump setting should be for a 24" bar?

The saw was filthy so I gave it a bath, after I was done I blew it off with compressed air and everything cleaned up nice.

I am not familair with this type of air filter. Can it be washed of is this just a replacement type. Does it need a spray oil like the K&N filters.

The chain is a Husky type 48 full chisel. Does anyone knoe what gauge this saw uses?

I would like to buy a Stihl chain when I replace it. What type should I get for Michigan hardwoods.

What compression should I see? The saw runs great and starts fine, so I don't belive the reading I got 55psi cold.

Last is there anyone that can date this saw with the model number and serial number?

ZG

 

[2000ssm6]

It should be around 150psi and get a RSC chain for that wood.

That is the only answers I got, LOL. A husky man will come along and add some more.

 

[adirondackhick]

hey you'll love the 372 great saw.
husky says 3 turns from closed position for an 18 -24 bar and 4 turns for a bar 24+ for husky oil, all other oils increase one step. hope this helps. it's out of the 372 manual......
happy cuttin'

 

[excess650]

The bar should be marked to indicate gauge. I would expect it to be 1.3mm .050" or 1.5mm(?) .058" and not 1.6mm .063".

Does the filter look like it takes oil? Some take oil and others are dry, automotive type.

The serial number generally will be the year of manufacture, week of year, and unit number 0125xxxx 2001 25th week

 

[adirondackhick]

oh for your chain question.... it should tell you right on the bar what your running. most common is either .050 or.058. just make sure you match the chain and bar. Baileys usually has ok prices on good chain.opcorn:

 

[J.Walker]

It should be around 150psi and get a RSC chain for that wood.

That is the only answers I got, LOL. A husky man will come along and add some more.

Stock up on the Stihl chain, it's good stuff!

 

[pyromaniac guy]

i use oregan chain on mine, and it does fine...

 

[fishercat]

RSC chain is the best.

the new Oregon chain is pretty damn good though.

i run my oiler maxed out.i never run out of bar oil before i run out of fuel and my bars last quite a long time.

 

[rngrchad]

the new Oregon chain is pretty damn good though.

i run my oiler maxed out.i never run out of bar oil before i run out of fuel and my bars last quite a long time.

I have the same experiences as you with bar oil and chain. I can't believe all the bad-mouthing of Oregon chain on this site. My oregon full-comp 390xp is outcutting the equivalent stihl rsc on ms660 when making noodles. Blew my mind!

 

[Nuzzy]

Now it looks like it oils too much. 10 to 15 drips on the bench after a 10 min warm up. Does anyone know what the oil pump setting should be for a 24" bar?

My experience has been that every saw will "leak" bar oil if run out of wood and then left on the bench because there is nothing for the oil to soak in to. Once the saw gets in wood, the wood fiber soaks up the oil and prevents what otherwise looks like leakage. Maybe I'm not making any sense... But if I fire up a saw, rev it a bit and then set it down, it will leak. If I run it in wood, no puddle forms.


As for the oiler setting, I always run oilers as far open as possible. Can't have too much lube IMHO.

 

[Banshee]

Congrats on a Husky classic. Now how about some pictures?

 

[rngrchad]

My experience has been that every saw will "leak" bar oil if run out of wood and then left on the bench because there is nothing for the oil to soak in to. Once the saw gets in wood, the wood fiber soaks up the oil and prevents what otherwise looks like leakage. Maybe I'm not making any sense... But if I fire up a saw, rev it a bit and then set it down, it will leak. If I run it in wood, no puddle forms.


As for the oiler setting, I always run oilers as far open as possible. Can't have too much lube IMHO.

:agree2::agree2:

 

[371groundie]

run it wide open. bar oil is cheap when it comes from the plug on the bottom of my pickup engine.

if its the flock type air filter, every so often i take it off, blow it off, and somtimes even run water inside it to push dirt off the outside. LET IT DRY THOROUGHLY!!!!!!!!! and pulls plenty of air.

chain is chain is chain. i run whats handy. as long as its sharp.

btw im runnin 3/8, 20inch, 58 gauge full comp.

 

[2000ssm6]

Stock up on the Stihl chain, it's good stuff!

I got a few spares.

 

[Zero Gravity]

Thanks for all the good advise. I found out the year on the saw is a 2000. I am buying a new 20" 3/8 .050 bar and RSC chain. Any other things I should replace based on the year. How about the fuel line?

I plan on replacing the fuel filter and washing the air filter this weekend. The first run of the saw it would not four cycle at top rev. I figured it was just the low temp at 25F. But now I thinking I should go throught fuel system and replace the rubber parts and inspect for wear.
ZG

 

[Old Goat]

10 to 15 drips on the bench after a 10 min warm up. Does anyone know what the oil pump setting should be for a 24" bar?

What do yo mean by 10 to 15 drips after a 10 minute warm up? If you were running the saw for 10 minutes and not cutting wood then you will have oil drips the whole length of the bar. Try setting it mid way and adjust according to needs. You should be throwing a small amount of oil off of the tip of the bar at high RPM. Too much oil and you will end up having to clean your saw more then needed. The manual states that for an 18" to 24" bar the setting is "3 turns from closed position" Here is a quote from the manual to help you know if the setting is right. "Aim the tip of the saw at a light coloured surface about 20 cm away. After 1 minute running at 3/4 throttle you should see a distinct line of oil on the light surface."

I am not familair with this type of air filter. Can it be washed of is this just a replacement type. Does it need a spray oil like the K&N filters.

Compressed air works well for the pleated type filters. If they get really dirty, which is not very common with this style of Husky, I will spray them with WD40 and blow them dry with compressed air from the inside out. No oil needed.

The chain is a Husky type 48 full chisel. Does anyone knoe what gauge this saw uses?

The chances are that it is .050, 3/8 pitch but the bar will tell you what you need

I would like to buy a Stihl chain when I replace it. What type should I get for Michigan hardwoods.

Stihl is great. The Husky chain that you have on the saw is made by Oregon. I have also had good luck with Baileys Woodland Pro skip on my 371XP with a 24" bar

What compression should I see? The saw runs great and starts fine, so I don't belive the reading I got 55psi cold.

It depends upon your elevation. You lose +/- 3% for every 1000 feet above sea level. 150 or better is great. 130 to 150 is good. 120 to 130 is O.K. 110 is poor. Less then 100 and you will be lucky if it starts.

Last is there anyone that can date this saw with the model number and serial number?

Give us the serial number and we can tell you the year, week and the number of saw that was made in that week.

Here is a link for the "Owners Manual"
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS1999/HOUS1999_1019066-95.pdf

Here is a link for the "Workshop Manual"
http://www.gardenresources.co.uk/content/garden_machinery/manuals/husqwm273_hwen2000_1019061-26.pdf

By the way you have a great saw.

 

[Old Goat]

Thanks for all the good advise. I found out the year on the saw is a 2000. I am buying a new 20" 3/8 .050 bar and RSC chain. Any other things I should replace based on the year. How about the fuel line?

I plan on replacing the fuel filter and washing the air filter this weekend. The first run of the saw it would not four cycle at top rev. I figured it was just the low temp at 25F. But now I thinking I should go throught fuel system and replace the rubber parts and inspect for wear.
ZG

Get a spare fuel line. It will break out in the field if you don't have one and if you do have a spare it won't. One of Murphy's laws. The fuel line will break where it comes out of the fuel tank and into the carb housing. When it does you will know, fuel everywhere. It won't hurt to replace the fuel filter if only for piece of mind.

If you can have a shop tune it for you with a tach all the better, but the owners manual has instructions for DIY. Pulling the plug and looking at the bottom of it after running it for a bit is the best way to tell. Carhartt brown is good, white is too lean, black is too rich. A new clean plug works good for this.

A new carb kit is cheap on ebay, my not be needed, but if you want to do it, piece of mind.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Carb-Kit-for-Hu...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:2|294:50

 

[ciscoguy01]

+1

Congrats on a Husky classic. Now how about some pictures?

Yea... Who the he11 gets a new saw and doesn't put pics up??? That's messed up man... Reallyyyyyy messed up...

opcorn:

 

[rngrchad]

Yea... Who the he11 gets a new saw and doesn't put pics up??? That's messed up man... Reallyyyyyy messed up...

opcorn:

I'm always looking for an excuse to post this smilie:

:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Zero Gravity]

Pics of the new saw. Sorry it took so long. I am not a shutter bug.
ZG