New Use for A Curtain Rod.

[Jredsjeep]

Thought that I might add that I have mounted a couple of laser sites to chainsaws and they are better as they do not protrude from the chainsaw and are compact unit.
Pioneerguy600

so how does that work??? i use the bar to measure also but like the idea of a rod to be more acccurite.

 

[pioneerguy600]

so how does that work??? i use the bar to measure also but like the idea of a rod to be more acccurite.

It works very well thank you.
Pioneerguy600

 

[jra1100]

Slight improvment

I like the system that brncreeper uses, but I would modify it by fastening the threaded rod to one of those flat magnets that Northern and others sell. That way you don't have to drill a hole in your bar. The threaded rod with CD is great though, it is lite and has infinite adjustment. JR

 

[Darkness77]

This could work also if accuracy is your thing

 

[Bill G]

I made this with a threaded rod, some O-rings, nylon stop nuts, and a cd. It works well for laying out 16" witness marks on a log prior to bucking it.

Boy I sure missed that. I never took a close look at it. I thought it was the one Baileys sold. That looks good. I am not worried about boring a hole in the bar with over 400 bars I guess I could bore one.

Bill

 

[spacemule]

I don't see a sufficient ROI. I've always just made a mark on my bar and used that to measure with. When I don't measure, I consistently get within an inch either way eyeballing.

 

[brncreeper]

With mine, mine is mounted right on the Power Head itself. I can cut on both sides of the Bar, and I can start at either end of the log. It works real well for cutting the Limb Wood as well. I just mark the Limbs, pull the Chain Saw back enough so that my guides clear, the Limb, and cut it right through.
I don't have to take it off the Chain Saw, until I'm finished for the Day, then I take it off, so that the Chain Saw does not take up too much room in my Chain Saw Carrying Box, that I have to carry my Chain Saws to the Bush, with my Loader Tractor.
Bruce.

I like your idea too, mine tends to get in the way when limbing. It does however come on and off quickly with a scrench.

I like the system that brncreeper uses, but I would modify it by fastening the threaded rod to one of those flat magnets that Northern and others sell. That way you don't have to drill a hole in your bar. The threaded rod with CD is great though, it is lite and has infinite adjustment. JR

The smaller husky and oregon already come with a hole at the end of the bar, makes it a little less painfull to make.

Boy I sure missed that. I never took a close look at it. I thought it was the one Baileys sold. That looks good. I am not worried about boring a hole in the bar with over 400 bars I guess I could bore one.
Bill

You had allot saws to tend to that day, that's why.

Hey Bill, could you send me a 10 pin sprocket for my 088? I'd like to play around with one.

I don't see a sufficient ROI. I've always just made a mark on my bar and used that to measure with. When I don't measure, I consistently get within an inch either way eyeballing.

I see your point, the only reason I do it is becasue my folks bought a small wood stove that will not take anything larger than 16". Otherwise I would just eyeball it llike you. My Woodland stove will take up to 20" but we (my dad and I) try to keep everything 16" to be downward compatible.

 

[Bill G]

...................

You had allot saws to tend to that day, that's why.

Hey Bill, could you send me a 10 pin sprocket for my 088? I'd like to play around with one.....................

.

I will see what I can round up for you.

Bill

 

[Bruce Hopf]

I like your idea too, mine tends to get in the way when climbing. It does however come on and off quickly with a search.


The smaller husky and oregon already come with a hole at the end of the bar, makes it a little less painful to make.


You had allot saws to tend to that day, that's why.

Hey Bill, could you send me a 10 pin sprocket for my 088? I'd like to play around with one.


I see your point, the only reason I do it is because my folks bought a small wood stove that will not take anything larger than 16". Otherwise I would just eyeball it like you. My Woodland stove will take up to 20" but we (my dad and I) try to keep everything 16" to be downward compatible.

I've got no choice. I have to keep my Blocks of Wood as close to 12", or I can't get them to fit in the Fire Box of my Furnace. On the other Hand, my Airtight Stove in my shop, can take a 24" Block of wood.. To take mine off, I just use the Screw Driver, a couple of turns, and it's off, or on. I can even adjust it to one side, to make longer Blocks of Fire Wood, sliding it to one side or the other, of the Bar. 12", 14", 16", 18", 20", close to 24", with one bar of Curtain Rod. Bruce.

 

[nmurph]

i have a mingo.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=265&catID=


they work well. their limitation is on small, knotty logs (<5-6"dia). on larger logs with knots, you can move along quickly. on the smaller, bumpier stuff, you need to slow down to make sure you keep the wheel in contact with the log. it is still faster than a tape and marking paint/hatchet. the splat of paint that it leaves is about the size of a quarter. i put my chain in the middle and cut. i get very consistant lengths. there are several wheel sizes available to vary the length of your log. i think they could be improved by replacing the plastic wheel with a rubber covered wheel with some cleats.

 

[bump_r]

Seems to overcomplicate something so simple as making one big piece into two small pieces. I generally find myself cutting beside knots or frozen debris rather than through it, or in a position where I find better footing, or where I don't need to reach at an awkward stance. Too, I find having a small variance in log length to my advantage when stuffing the stove or even stacking the stuff. I really don't find MY need for uniform log length to be such that would make any devise or method ("measuring" the length with a paint mark on the saw??) worthwhile. What to do when you find an oddball piece where you have to decide to make one over-size chunk or two undersize ones? I can think of better things to consume my time or truck space. To each his own, though. There seems to be a lot of discussion and products on the market nowadays to suggest there IS a market for such stuff, I just don't see it.

 

[turnkey4099]

Seems to overcomplicate something so simple as making one big piece into two small pieces. I generally find myself cutting beside knots or frozen debris rather than through it, or in a position where I find better footing, or where I don't need to reach at an awkward stance. Too, I find having a small variance in log length to my advantage when stuffing the stove or even stacking the stuff. I really don't find MY need for uniform log length to be such that would make any devise or method ("measuring" the length with a paint mark on the saw??) worthwhile. What to do when you find an oddball piece where you have to decide to make one over-size chunk or two undersize ones? I can think of better things to consume my time or truck space. To each his own, though. There seems to be a lot of discussion and products on the market nowadays to suggest there IS a market for such stuff, I just don't see it.

I need to mark mine is some way as my mark1 eyeball lies. I aim for 16" but on small stuff soon wind up cutting them 18-20" and on big stuff down to 12-13". Even with my cut-off guide, due to parrallax, my lengths vary but at least they are in the ballpark.

Oddball piece oversize chunk or two small ones? I cut one standard and put the short one on my 'ugly' pile that I burn first.

Harry K

 

[Poley4]

Seems to overcomplicate something so simple as making one big piece into two small pieces.

I tend to agree, except when I'm cutting the wood to sell. It always amazes me how picky customers can be about something they are just going to burn anyway.

 

[bump_r]

I tend to agree, except when I'm cutting the wood to sell. It always amazes me how picky customers can be about something they are just going to burn anyway.

I'll buy that. A happy customer is a repeat customer.