New Use for A Curtan Rod.

[Bruce Hopf]

I always was wanting a set up for a couple my McCulloch Mini Mac Chain Saws for measuring different Lengths of Fire Wood, so I can go along with one of my bigger saws, and finish making the Cut, once the marking is done.
I used to use one hand to operate one of the Mini Macs, while holding a Stick cut to the length I wanted. I never liked this method of marking, because I don't like trying to run a Chain Saw with one Hand. Even a Mini Mac with a 12" Bar.
Prior to using one of the Mini Macs, I used a Hatchet and a Stick of small Lumber, cut to my desired length, but half the time, I couldn't see the Hatchet Mark.
So last night while putting a block of Fire Wood into the Furnace, I noticed a Curtain Rod in the Shape of an I, at the end of it, by about 5' in length. I went up stairs, and found some Wall Hangers for the Curtain Rod.
I removed the Bottom Front Bolt on the Mini Mac, that holds the Front Plate of the Saw together. I had to grind down both sides of the Mounting Bracket for the Curtain Rod, so it would fit in the groove of the Chain Saw.
I then inserted the Curtain Rod into the Mounting Bracket, and with another Mounting Bracket on both sides of the Bar, I measured 12" on both Sides. I used a Marker, to mark on both sides of the Mounting Bracket, where I want to hook up the Curtain Rod to the Chain Saw.
I then cut the Curtain Rod into Length. I then drilled two 1/4" holes in the Curtain Rod, one at each end.
I got two 1/4" x 3" Bolts, and four 1/4" Nuts from my Shop. I inserted both Bolts Thread first into the Bench Vice, and bent them almost 45 degrees, and then cut the heads off them, and ground off the Burrs.
With a Nut on either side of the Curtain Rod, I installed the Bolts, so that they point up. They are just a little higher than the Bottom of the Bar.
I have seen marking guides before in one of the Arborist Catalogues that I get, and it was made out of Fiberglass, and It wasn't adjustable, and it was pretty prints.
Curtain Rod, is pretty cheap, and using a Mounting Bracket attached to your Chain Saw, you can adjust it to what ever length you want it. Here is some Pictures of what I did.
Bruce.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

Here is what it looks like on the Chain Saw. Bruce.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

Here it is when it is off the Chain Saw. To install it all has to be done, is tighten the Screw on the Mounting Bracket, and the Marking Stick is held into place. Bruce.

 

[kevin j]

I just eyeball, almost always within an inch because of many years on the drafting board. Always thought the add on flags and sticks and spray paint wheels were a gimmick, or would clutter up the saw and make it a pain for cutting or for storage.

I will always freehand, but I think your idea of setting up one saw just for marking, walk the log just marking, then get another saw for bucking is a great idea. About as fast as you can walk it easy to touch and mark.

neat.

k

 

[ShoerFast]

Stuff around 5" is easy, just cut 3X the diameter for 15" wood.

15" wood, cut the diameter at 1X for a 15" block.

In between sized stuff is just cut the same per portions in between.

Bigger stuff I have problem eye-balling, so I scratched marks into the bars, or know were 15" is from the end of the handle - point on the saw.

Perfect? Never, but it's my bet that this Maple is about 1 cord (you can't see all of it)

 

[Ole Farmerbuck]

I use a yard stick cut off at 16'' and walk the tree and mark it with a red wood crayon. Fast and can see it good. Each to their own!

 

[ents]

Great ingenuity. Use what's on hand.

I almost invested in one of those gizmo thingys (too lazy to make my own). But realized I already had one on the saw. I mark my bar for whatever length I require. Yes it takes a little longer (turn saw length way, eye ball, bring saw back to cutting position, etc) but it works pretty good. I envy folks that can eye ball. If I do that my lengths wander.

Later,

 

[Wood Doctor]

I use a yard stick cut off at 16'' and walk the tree and mark it with a red wood crayon. Fast and can see it good. Each to their own!

I need to do that each time I ask someone else to cut the logs to length. I asked my friend not to cut the logs too short. Here's what I said:

Edwin: "Mel, my stove takes a 24" log, which is longer than most stoves. I like to cut all my logs between 18" and 22" just to be sure that they all fit in."

Mel: "How long is that?"

Edwin: "Here's a cubit: the length from your elbow to the ends of your fingers. Use that as a guide and then add an inch or so."

Mel: "OK, that seems easy enough. I'll cut them all a little longer than a cubit."
-----------
Except for one thing. The first log Mel cut was 30" long. :deadhorse:

 

[Bruce Hopf]

Great ingenuity. Use what's on hand.

I almost invested in one of those gizmo things (too lazy to make my own). But realized I already had one on the saw. I mark my bar for whatever length I require. Yes it takes a little longer (turn saw length way, eye ball, bring saw back to cutting position, etc) but it works pretty good. I envy folks that can eye ball. If I do that my lengths wander.

Later,

:agree2: . I don't have much room for errors. The Fire Box of my Wood/Oil Combination Furnace is 14" square, and a 12" Block in Length, is easier to throw in for me, and it fits comfortably.
If I don't mark before I cut, My Block Lengths are all over the Country, and Back. LOL. I've been cutting for almost 30 Years, and I still cant cut with lengths without marking prior to cutting.
My Dad, and Great Uncle, were the same way, when they cut. They Both could look where the Cut needed to be, and way they would go. Every Cut was the same as the Last. They both could judge within 1/4" of their mark. I used to :bow down: to them, and to those who can cut wood that way.
Bruce

 

[Sawmill]

Here is how I made one. Take a piece of round or square rod and put a point on one end. Take this end and go up appox 1 inch and make a 90 degree bend. Then you determine the lengh of wood you want less 1 1/2 inch( this is for half dia. of the spray can) and make another 90 degree bend 4 or 5 inches long on the other end of the rod keeping in mind that one end goes up and the other end is bent down and then you take a can of marking paint and hose clamp and clamp the paint on the lond end of the rod. Now you are ready to make wood , just set the pointed end on the log and press down on the paint can and move up the log marking as you go. I have been using this way to mark log this year and it works good.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

Well I gave my out fit a try today, and WOW. It made cutting wood a lot easier, and faster too. I wish I made one Years ago. Every Block of Fire Wood was the same length.
For the limbs, I marked and pulled the saw back a little bit to get past the posts, and sailed right through.
Even for the Bigger Stuff, it was real handy for Marking. Just touched the post into the previous marking cut, put the bar down, and rev ed it up a bit, and moved on down the Tree Top. Worked Excellent. Very Impressed, and Happy with it.
Bruce.

 

[turnkey4099]

Well I gave my out fit a try today, and WOW. It made cutting wood a lot easier, and faster too. I wish I made one Years ago. Every Block of Fire Wood was the same length.
For the limbs, I marked and pulled the saw back a little bit to get past the posts, and sailed right through.
Even for the Bigger Stuff, it was real handy for Marking. Just touched the post into the previous marking cut, put the bar down, and rev ed it up a bit, and moved on down the Tree Top. Worked Excellent. Very Impressed, and Happy with it.
Bruce.

I made my first one back in the early 80s. 1/8" x 3/4" flat bar, bent "L" on one end, drilled to fit bar mount bolts. Wouldn't be without one on my 'limb/trim saw'. Sure it gets in the way sometimes but I got used to working around it.

Still make them (they break regularly at the bend) but really should buy one of the magnetic ones for quick on/off.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Re: marking log.

I don't do that anymore. If you mark the entire log, you screw it up when you come to crotches and have adjust where you want the cutoff to fall. then the problem of the log rolling and the marks disapear.

I either use my saw mounted cut-off guide (small saw) or a white painted 1x2 (big saw) to guage as I cut. Yep, have to set it to eyeball where to cut, lay it aside, cut, etc., Have thought of putting a wrist strap on it and letting it hang but I don't think that is a good idea - may try it though.

Harry K

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Bruce, that looks like a pretty good setup. It would sure be easier to cut uniform lengths with that on there instead of measuring up against the bar. When I go to cutting they in the ballpark but never right on the money.

Anybody else remember those retractable key rings for your belt ?

They seemed pretty stout. What would keep a guy from mounting one of these to a saw with a hook on the cable end. You could put a stop on it so the bar could only move a set amount from the end of the log. At that point you tip the bar down and cut. Once in the cut you ease off the throttle release the hook, it springs back in out of the way and you finish the cut. The hook is detatched so the falling log doesn't jerk the saw out of your hands or jerk you over on a running saw. It is pretty low profile and might not interfere with the bucking spikes.