Absolutely , piston wash has removed all the oil residue & potential deposits !
Newbie to running older saws, question on mix ratio
- Thread starter scut207
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
50:1 or 40:1 is not an issue of concern with proper oil for the application within a properly tuned engine !
Ben & I certainly disagree more than agree , however I will go on the record that , he has always been an advocate for more oil in the mix ! My position is that more is better only when the engine is tuned properly for the additional oil , unfortunately most homeowners can't tune to save their lives , therefore potentionally reducing any benefit of the extra oil within the fuel charge . Also xtra oil , only if it has additional detergent package & with proper fuel usage . I have seen much to often , where poor fuel choice has wreaked havoc within engine deposits . Anyhow , as Ben correctly stated utilized properly more quality oil will provide very efficient 2T engine operation . P.S. Very happy with my usage & trials within sleds & saws of Dominator & Red Armor oils over the past 6 months . Going to add it to my Husky & Can-Am dirt bikes pre mix this year !
Modern 2 stroke oil is night and day compared to 30 years ago. The JASO standard is the one to pay attention to.
I’m just speculating, but even just slightly stale petrol I’d presume would probably do more damage and cause more carbon than even cheap fb rated mineral oils.
Gasoline quality is a huge driver of piston deposits. If you knew the crap that ends up in the gasoline pool of a refinery you would not be suprised.
And it's also why even four cycle engines have carboned up pistons.
Why I only use synthetic fuel (50-1) premix in ALL my 2 stroke engines. So long as the container remains unopened, the shelf life is basically unlimited. Using Red Armor or Tru-Fuel 50-1 in everything.
Why I dose my 4 stroke engines with Seafoam through the intakes regularly. Cleans the carbon deposits as well as the catalytic convertors.
Sea foam will actually do the opposite.
I've ran both four stroke and two stroke motors on sea foam applied several different ways and then inspected with a bore scope. It never did a damn thing. Pure snake oil IMO.
I find the opposite to be true and I have 2 bore scopes, one digital and one analog. However, I apply it directly into the intake post MAF sensor.
I happen to own a GDI engine which are notorious for carboning up and with over 100K miles on it and regular doses of Seafoam, directly into the intakes, no issues with carbon at all, and I ALWAYS inspect the combustion chambers after dosing. Maybe snake oil for you but for me it's not.
Whatever blows your dress up is fine with me. I'll keep doing EXACTLY what I'm doing, thank you.
The synthetic thing is kind of over blown. All certified oils are at least partially synthetic nowadays. And many times the partial synthetic oils are cleaner than that straight synthetics. Some of the straight synthetics are actually pretty dirty. BelRay H1R being one example.
Instead of fixating on synthetic or non look for an oil to be actually JASO FC/FD certified.
Funny you mention GDI. A few months back I was dealing with an extremely dirty GDI engine in a GMC Acadia. I tried Seafoam GDI cleaner and it didn't remove even a slight amount. Tried to other products. The last being CRC GDI cleaner it worked, but took several cans and multiple cleaning cycles.
And a GDI engine has about zero to do with dumping sea foam into a traditional 2 or 4 cycle motor... seafoam is just isopropyl alcohol, kerosene and light(pale) oil. When you add it to a motor it makes it smoke like hell because the kero and oil don't combust completely. What causes carbon
You do you...
I wont mix anything with e-gas. I've cleaned a ton of carbs that are gunked up and replaced rotting fuel lines too. Egas sucks. bottom line
That it does.
I just had to take the muffler off a FS-94 and try to get the crud out of it. Not the screen, it was long gone. The muffler itself. Exhaust has to come out the side or it would just burn a hole in the plastic, so you can't just drill a hole in it. I managed to drive a drift pin in far enough to swell the exhaust opening. Put the muffler back and held it wide open while this goop the consistency of asphalt tar came oozing out. Lucky. I have had to replace the muffler.
Somebody explain why I shouldn't think that guy is just using too much oil. For that application anyway.
Wasn't gasoline that did it.
Somebody explain why I shouldn't think that guy is just using too much oil. For that application anyway.
Wasn't gasoline that did it.
What your seeing is partially combusted or uncombusted oil and gas. That's a tuning issue pure and simple.
I find all my saws and weed trimmers run better on the syn gas.
Yeah , you could say that !
It is a much more effective oil additive , it significantly removes oil deposits & sludge within any engine , very effective within Diesel applications just prior (100 miles) to an oil change Never used within a chainsaw 2t application only 4 stroke fuel & oil additive . I would agree within fuel system its very marginal within cleaning effectiveness , its Stoddard solvent & Naptha composition just are not all that effective short term within a gas system , I use Startron for proper spot & long term fuel system cleaning & stabilizing , works on both gas & diesel applications . As Ben has stated Seafoam has very little true cleaning capability on grunge !
Way to expensive form my blood , non efuel @ 89 octane is sufficient with a quality FC or FD synthetic oil !
