Newbie with two big cherry trees

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LostInTheWoods

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Joined
Oct 30, 2006
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Location
Virginia
Hi everyone. Brand new to all this and need some help! The builder in our neighborhood up-rooted a few trees, two of which I believe are black cherries. They are both big, 30-40 ft with long strait trunks. I'd say the base of the bigger one (at the rootball) is about 3ft across and the smaller one 1.5-2 ft. When I heard they were cherry I thought, wonderful, I'll make a table out of it. Now I learn there is milling, drying, etc to get it to this stage. And this is all before I try to find some way to get them cut and onto my property. So a few questions:

1. How can I be sure it is a cherry?
2. I have very limited means to cut (Sthil MS 210) and haul away (wagon). Can these be cut into 8-10' lengths and still be meaningful for furniture?
3. What have I stumbled on? Is this a great find and should I go the extra effort to take as much of it as possible??

Thanks
 
LostInTheWoods said:
Hi everyone. Brand new to all this and need some help! The builder in our neighborhood up-rooted a few trees, two of which I believe are black cherries. They are both big, 30-40 ft with long strait trunks. I'd say the base of the bigger one (at the rootball) is about 3ft across and the smaller one 1.5-2 ft. When I heard they were cherry I thought, wonderful, I'll make a table out of it. Now I learn there is milling, drying, etc to get it to this stage. And this is all before I try to find some way to get them cut and onto my property. So a few questions:

1. How can I be sure it is a cherry?
2. I have very limited means to cut (Sthil MS 210) and haul away (wagon). Can these be cut into 8-10' lengths and still be meaningful for furniture?
3. What have I stumbled on? Is this a great find and should I go the extra effort to take as much of it as possible??

Thanks

If its as you say.....Yep! As for Id. Get some leaf samples if they are still "green"/ living. Google up black cherry leaf and you should be able to match/disprove. Also, you might look around the area of your downed tree and see if there are any black cherries near by. If this was black cherry, there should be some offspring sprung.
 
2. I have very limited means to cut (Sthil MS 210) and haul away (wagon). Can these be cut into 8-10' lengths and still be meaningful for furniture?

8' length logs is still OK for furniture, once you get the boards dry whats the first thing you do? Cut them into small pieces right.
Your ms210 will handle crosscutting them fine as long as it's nice and sharp and you aren't in a hurry. You will need to cut the bigest ones from both sides, and get some plastic wedges to stop the bar getting pinched.
Moving them is going to be the big problem, they will still be HEAVY. A nice strong trailer, some ramps and a winch is an option.
Other option is to find a portable miller who will bring his mill to the logs

Cheers

Ian
 
where are you in VA?? There aren't many if any black cherries in the tidewater region of virginia. Look on the bottom of the leaves if they are still there; black cherry should have a fuzzy center vein. Virginia choke cherry trees, prunus virginiana, doesn't have the fuzz. If you are in doubt whether there is enough fuzz, it isnt black cherry. Prunus serotina has definite fuzz on the central vein. HTH.
 
One thing you need to think about if you get it cut into lengths is coating the ends with a wax based sealant---anchor seal---its cheap. Spend the money. I'm wishing I hadnt used aluminum oil paint which I was told by numerous sources would work and not stain. I've got some serious checking in some walnut.
 
meant to add; If you're close, maybe I could help for a portion of the boards. Sounds like you've got more than you can handle if the base is over 24"!!!!! Let me know. I'm just west of Charlottesville. I don't have a lot of time, and I'm new at this, but I've found things go smoother with just about anything when you've got two sets of hands. :) Happy milling!

PS whatever you do, dont let the developer just burn them@!!!!!!
 
Cherry

I am far from an expert, but I have a lot of Cherry trees in my yard and that looks like wild black cherry to me. Nice looking log. Any other votes?
 
LostInTheWoods said:
Here are some pictures. Can anyone identify what kind of a cherry this is?
Yup, looks like the good stuff, black cherry (prunus serotina). Clear dry 4/4 S4S cherry goes for between $5 and $7 a bd ft here, and a lot more for wide pieces, or thick stuff like 8/4. Jump on it if you can, don't let them cut it into firewood and burn it up. If I wasn't a good 3-4 hours north of you I'd come down and help you clean it up if I could take some of it home.

mini post glossary for newbies...
S4S = surfaced 4 sides, run through planer and edged
4/4 = 1 inch thick
8/4 = 2 inch thick
bd ft = board foot, basically 1x12x12, or 144 cubic inches
 
It does look like the real thing, but the true indicator is on the underside of the leaf. I've got trees in my yard that really look just like black cherry, and are actually virginia choke cherry, or prunus virginiana--. I was very surprised to find that out after I talked to a botanist about the 'true indicator'. FWIW, I do think that what you have is a black cherry. The bark is pretty indicative that it is a black cherry as well. Most of the virginia cherries that I've seen also dont have quite as distinctive bark--they're more like a crackly version of the smooth bark at the top of the tree.
 
Hey Lost in the Woods,

How about flippin one of those leaves over and snapping a pic of that. Like Aquanator, I've also read where black cherry has "hairs" on the underside. Regardless it looks like a beautiful find and will make some nice lumber from.

I ask, because I have some (what I had hoped was black cherry seedlings) but is probably some other cherry. I wanted to transfer these seedlings into an area where I can let them grow for the next thirty years. Dont want to do it if its some other inferior cherry.

Tks.
Tom
 
Yepper...

That is guaranteedee Black Cherry my man. Not what we call Wild Cherry. Worth a few Bucks.
 
Ok, next steps....?

Guys, really appreciate the identification help. Couple things....

1. I'll snap a few more pic including the back side of those leaves as requested. Just can't get there until Sat as i'm on the road now.

2. I really need help now from the standpoint of where to cut. There must be some specific rules about good places in order to maintain best milling logs and minimum lenghts to cut out. Also, I am not able to haul away large sections like 20' or something. I'm looking at having a small flat bed (like for commercial mowing equip) or a pick up.

3. How do I need to treat this stuff once cut? Should/can it be milled right away or do I need to let the full log sit? If I can mill then what should I do with the lumber once cut?

Thanks!
 
For my own use, I like to cut 8 to 10 foot sections...that's plenty long enough for any furniture project. Try to eyeball the tree and cut at the middle of the tightest curved spots - so the resulting pieces are as straight as possible. Cherry usually has some kinks - cut there.

Lots of advice here on drying, anchorseal, stickering etc...

Congrats! That's nice wood...:rock:
 
LostInTheWoods said:
Guys, really appreciate the identification help. Couple things....

1. I'll snap a few more pic including the back side of those leaves as requested. Just can't get there until Sat as i'm on the road now.

2. I really need help now from the standpoint of where to cut. There must be some specific rules about good places in order to maintain best milling logs and minimum lenghts to cut out. Also, I am not able to haul away large sections like 20' or something. I'm looking at having a small flat bed (like for commercial mowing equip) or a pick up.

3. How do I need to treat this stuff once cut? Should/can it be milled right away or do I need to let the full log sit? If I can mill then what should I do with the lumber once cut?
Thanks!


RE #3. You can mill it right away. In fact preferred b/c your more likely to wait too long and do like my dad has done and let good logs ruin for not being on top of it. If your gonna wait, you better get it up off the ground and seal those ends up.

Good luck, definately appreciate it if you get those underside of leaves pics. Tks, Tom
 
Oooooooo, thats nice, jump in with both feet man and cut to what you can handle. An option to endsealing (if so consider paintin' on melted wax, I think that is the best/most sensible option I've heard around here and won't stain it) and slow curing might be to find out if there is someone kiln drying lumber nearby, maybe worth it to build a small drying box yourself, lots of options for that and cheap to do from what I understand, whatever you choose I'd like to see what you make of them. ;)
 
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Woodsurfer said:
For my own use, I like to cut 8 to 10 foot sections...that's plenty long enough for any furniture project. Try to eyeball the tree and cut at the middle of the tightest curved spots - so the resulting pieces are as straight as possible. Cherry usually has some kinks - cut there.
QUOTE]
...pretty much what I would say... good advice. I rarely cut more than 8ft though, gets too hard to handle, sticker and store. As for your query about "what to do with the lumber once cut"... gee that's easy, give it to a woodworker like myself :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Hello lost..Where in va are you located? Im in va also and could help you cut and prep your logs for milling..100% free help if your reasonably close..

scott
 
woodshop said:
...pretty much what I would say... good advice. I rarely cut more than 8ft though, gets too hard to handle, sticker and store.
Yup- I have some 8/4 x 27" x 20' pine slabs I cut for table or bar tops. What a PITA to get them into the drying barn. Should be worth it though (I hope).
 
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