Newest addition 241c-m

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I think Brad may be right. Coulda been sumfin else. NOw that the carb is being sorted, I will give it another try. First I'll do a compression check.

A beer can gets you .008 I think, according to oldcat. Haven't measured it myself yet. I may make one. That vid I did doesn't do this thing justice, tho. I think with a new B&C and the carb sorted, she will scream. She didn't lose any torque for the raised exhaust(and it is now raised a lot - well .016...), but she winds up very quickly.
Ya im thinkin doing a .010 gasket and just clean the ports up and check the port timing after I get the new gasket in and go from there
 
Ya im thinkin doing a .010 gasket and just clean the ports up and check the port timing after I get the new gasket in and go from there

I'm gonna adjust the squish in a bit here. Right now I am still having carb issues(this unit has always had issues). I may end up having to simply replace the carb. Here she is when she cooperated enough to do a vid before the MTronic eventually kicked in an ran her pig rich again.
This is also without resetting the MT. It simply loads up at idle and dies now.



Chain is 325 semi chisel on a 16" husqvarna bar modded to fit the 241.
 
Of course Niko likes it.

The two techs could only agree on one thing - replacing the carb. I asked them if the coil could make the saw do what it was doing, and they both said it was most likely the carb. I am gonna be rather upset if it is the coil or the trigger control unit.
 
Put the saw on start and crank it and dont blip the throttle for 90 sec. Cut it off , recrank, and go make 5 loaded cuts and its done
If the muff is modded before it's fired up for the first time, is a re-cal necessary?
 
Of course Niko likes it.

The two techs could only agree on one thing - replacing the carb. I asked them if the coil could make the saw do what it was doing, and they both said it was most likely the carb. I am gonna be rather upset if it is the coil or the trigger control unit.
Do you have a shop manual? The diagnosis is pretty simple with a multi-meter.
 
Do you have a shop manual? The diagnosis is pretty simple with a multi-meter.

To drop it off and have them 'properly' diagnose the saw and fix it would have cost more than a new carb and throttle control sensor, and then add to that the cost of a new carb and throttle control sensor. I spent 5 minutes with each tech on the phone, telling them how the saw was acting. It was readily apparent to me that they had no idea how to handle an MTronic issue. I decided on a new carb, and possibly new other parts rather early in my conversations. The only dealer set up to diagnose it with a computer is an hour and a half away. That's 30 euro in fuel alone, plus 4+ hours off work as they are not open most weekends. Needless to say, I am not too fond of this electronic stuff right now.

I do recall earlier on stating that my only issue with the new electronic saws is if they start having gremlins. Well, here we are.

I may have a multimeter here. How do I test the sensor?
 
SO I set the carb aside to bring with me to the stealership tomorrow coz they are like open for 3 hours or somthing stupid like that. I put it on the counter next to the door. One of the sisters came in to look after her mother and brought her kids with her. In short order I notice the carb is missing. After looking around for 15 minutes, I find it in the kids toy box.

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To drop it off and have them 'properly' diagnose the saw and fix it would have cost more than a new carb and throttle control sensor, and then add to that the cost of a new carb and throttle control sensor. I spent 5 minutes with each tech on the phone, telling them how the saw was acting. It was readily apparent to me that they had no idea how to handle an MTronic issue. I decided on a new carb, and possibly new other parts rather early in my conversations. The only dealer set up to diagnose it with a computer is an hour and a half away. That's 30 euro in fuel alone, plus 4+ hours off work as they are not open most weekends. Needless to say, I am not too fond of this electronic stuff right now.

I do recall earlier on stating that my only issue with the new electronic saws is if they start having gremlins. Well, here we are.

I may have a multimeter here. How do I test the sensor?
I have tried everything my limited computer knowledge will allow me to break out the several pages of diagnostics in my shop manual .PDF to no avail. I like you guys, but I'm not typing out several pages of instructions either.

I have also had time to think about your issue and I doubt very much it's the M-tronic judging by your description. Generally, without a reason, the M-tronic is not just going to adjust the saw to full rich. M-Tronic is pretty simple. It bases it's adjustments of the carb through simply measuring the temperature of the crankcase and the RPM. An air leak causes a lean condition, which causes high R.P.M. and more heat. The system reacts by adding fuel. Same goes for a change in temperature, the system reacts by adding or removing fuel to meet the pre-set perimeters.

I have no idea how the M-tronic is going to react to your porting. It could simply be a case of changing something in the porting that causes enough heat to make the M-Tronic go full rich and not come back. It could also be an air leak that it's reacting to. Or it could be broken in some way. In the shop manual they make a big deal of thoroughly checking wiring and connections before replacing components.

Then, the carb, as you discovered isn't that different from a normal carb. In reality, your situation probably isn't the carb, but the solenoid attached to it, which is replaceable separate.

Do you have any hard data that it's going too rich? What is the top RPM attained at no load. If it's not reaching 13,000 then there is an issue. That is one of the hard values in the troubleshooting guide. Have you tested the saw for air leaks?
 
This is the history of this 241:

It has always ran very rich. Even stock. And has always had a bog if left to idle for anything more than a few seconds. It had been returned to the dealer a few times for the issue, but was never resolved. Occasionally it will load up and die if left to idle(richen itself up until it can no longer idle). It would rev out at WOT, but be very rich on the top end, especially for a 43cc saw. It had good torque when it liked to run, though. But never had decent throttle response. And the issues were getting worse and worse. It was then passed on to me in exchange for some saw work I did for the original owner.

I took it, tore it down, cleaned it up, and then did a muff mod by removing the baffle. She ran a bit better, but still had the bog, and never had the responsiveness a 43cc saw should have. She loaded up a touch less, but still ran very rich. I was hoping porting it would draw the fuel it wanted to give her. Then I very mildly ported it. Mostly removing the lip on the intake and adding a small amount of timing to the intake and transfers, and cleaned up the flashing on the lower transfers. No ignition timing mods, no gasket removal, no machine work. She ran great for a couple of days. Then the rich running issues returned. I tried to modify the metering lever as well(with the help of a couple of stihl and small engine techs, and no more than 6 different adjustments and trials). She would run great for a few cuts, then start to go richer and richer until she wouldn't rev out any more - she would only just idle. And she will no longer start without the throttle at WOT now. I set the meter to where it was originally, and now she hardly works at all. I cleaned the carb as best I could - no improvement. Checked the impulse, replaced the hoses and filter - no change. Then the other day she started to surge a bit at idle, load up, then die. The exhaust port is covered in soot, and she eats fuel faster than my heavily ported 044 does, but acts pig rich the entire time and is basically useless.

So, whattaya think it is?
 
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