no good firewood story

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pacman

pacman

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I measure by my bar (20").

Dad had a mark scratched in the clutch cover of his XL-12.

My stove can take 24" logs...I've tried those but I found I don't like feeding logs that long. 20", 22" work well.

I agree! The 20 inch log is the norm to me too. I can put a 24 inch log in the stove but some get cut a little long so 20" does it easy.
 
biggenius29

biggenius29

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I cut all my wood at 16" After I drop a tree I go with my Mingo down the whole tree, saves the guesswork out of everything.

Now I just have to learn to cut straight and not criss cross. One side of the piece will be short and one long.
 
husky455rancher

husky455rancher

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i try to cut 18-20. im pretty good at eyeballing the logs. im actually really consistant. my buddy on the otherhand is all over the place.

my insert will take a 20" log. my woodstove will take prolly 25 if i had to guess. the best part is my splitter will only take a 20" log too. so as i like to say if it doesnt split it dosent fit.
 
Biker Dude

Biker Dude

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I ran across the patent for the mingo while I was doing research for my own firewood cutting invention. I shook my head when I read it and thought "who would use that? It adds an extra step and doesn't save any time" Sorry guys, didn't mean to diss you. For the longest time I used a piece of pex tubing cut to length as a guide but I would have to put the tube on the tree and then eyeball the next cut. It was SLOW! I built a prototype of my new system and have cut 2 cord at almost double my previous speed. The best part is that all my cuts are between 1/4 to 1/2 in. of my desired length. As soon as I finish writing and filing my provisional patent application I'll let you all in on it.(if that is allowed here)
 
Metals406

Metals406

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I've done the eyeball, the 'use the bar', and even used my foot as a reference.

Now I just bust out my tape, and a piece of keel, and mark the trees up before I cut... It takes less than five minutes to mark 3 trees.

My stove can take 18" wood... But I have experimented with different lengths over the years. I have found that 13"-14" gives me optimal stackability to stuff the firebox.
 
Raymond

Raymond

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That's one of the reasons I quit selling firewood. People always complaining about the prices, the extra cost for stacking and then the people with cute little stupid stoves that require blocks of wood.
I decided they could burn snowballs for heat. I like the extra room in my lot anyway. :computer:
 
johncinco

johncinco

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Most of the time its eyeball it up and make sure it'll fit in the stove. Especially on curvy branches and such. Big straight logs (not good enough to go on the mill) I pull out the tape measure and hand axe. Just a quick chip off the bark and you can mark out a log fast enough.

JUst dont chop through the tape!
 
Orange Hill

Orange Hill

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I also use the Mingo. The gear teeth are a bits too slick for smoother barks and I get an occasional stuck blob of paint when it slips on blue gum but it is a lot faster then the old way of using a tee stick and hatchet. Also you can switch up paint colors for different sizes or if you are cutting with someone else as each piece is marked at both ends. I cut 16" for me, some 12" for the gf's bedroom stove and 24" for her fireplace. I always free hand the small stuff.

I used to sell firewood but I have not done so for years, but I may next winter as it is $250 a cord for eucalyptus and $350 for oak. I have 3 oaks and 15 or so 12-20" dia eucalyptus he ground right now to make room to drop a big eucalyptus so I think I might make a little extra Christmas money this year. I am cutting to 16", I think I would have to charge an extra $25+ for 12" stuff for all of the extra work and the loss of wood caused by all of the cuts.

Sometimes it is better to lose a difficult customer then to irritate both of you.
 
stihl025

stihl025

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I bought a 1" square piece of hardwood dowel from Lowe's. Cut 16" sections out of it, drilled a hole in it and looped a piece of starter cord through it. I use a small carabiner on my pants belt loop to keep it handy. A lumber crayon on a loop in the same carabiner and off I go. Only takes a couple minutes to mark out a log. Sorta mimics the old style yard sticks.
 
avalancher

avalancher

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I also use the mingo, not really any extra measurable time spent marking the log.I dont use it so often for myself, I can stay within an inch either way, but when the wife helps cut it saves a lot in recutting stuff that gets to long.
A quick walk down the log and I can be assured she will stay within the 16 inch mark.
well worth the few bucks to get accurate lengths.
 

KD57

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That sucks, sometimes people are so picky. I always cut 12" and 18", 18 for the bigger stoves and fireplaces, then 12 for smaller stoves and chiminea wood. I used to sell a bunch of chiminea wood.
 
Lloyd H

Lloyd H

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firewood length

I cut 22 for my riteway 37, got a 22 inch piece of broomstick and a can of orange marking paint. Everything fits in the splitter and firewood stacks so much nicer when it is all the same length. Drop a tree and dear wife has it marked by the time I'm ready to start cutting. A can of marking paint lasts about 2 years, all it takes is a dot.
 
Vibes

Vibes

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My Shenendoah R65 is a round wood and coal burner. I need a certain amount of anything from 8'' to 16'' pieces to pack it good for the overnite burn.

I also use my hatchet to mark the bark if I'm looking for certain lenghs. If I end up with a piece to long I have an old Remington electric chainsaw on a hook next to the stove. Trim to lenght and sweep the chips into a pile that I use for kindling.
 
IndyIan

IndyIan

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I have a mid size EPA stove and its firebox is basically square, it fits 18" according to the specs but I like about 14-15" for easy loading and if I'm off by a bit it still fits. Plus alot of my rounds aren't easily moveable in 18" format either. Splitting by hand is easier too with shorter rounds.
Recutting a cord of wood wouldn't be fun! maybe if it was stacked perfectly you could buzz them that way...
 
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