Noob looking for advice, log cabin project

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Traditional tool: We are actually not total morons, we are working with some very big poles, and when we get to the inside we will have clean wood. Only about the outer 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the poles has creosote it it. The only reason that to professional sawyer didn't want to cut them was that the creosote ruins his saw blade. He still has said he'd do it if we can't make anything else work, it'll just cost us the blades.

The history of this cabin is that the place where you say a wall had been removed was where the original 1852 cabin was attached to the later 1856 2 story cabin. This sat near the river and was purchased by some folks wanting to build a new house. They were going to destroy the house, but the Historical Society asked them if they could have it. It was moved 4 blocks and placed on a new foundation. It is in FAIR shape as far as being able to keep standing. We have used come alongs and braces, and drilled long angled 1 inch holes through the logs and driven in re rod to keep it in place, and lots of other means to get it back to pretty safe. We have replaced about 10 of the logs already and know how to do it, but we had replacement logs from another old log cabin. Now we are out of the long logs and want to get the East end stabilized as you can literally move it with one hand. This thing looks OK, but it's not. We have been working on this a little here and there for the last 3 years, and now have the go ahead to get it done. I am way more worried about this thing falling on me than I am about creosote. I confess I may be a retard and a moron, but I've been shot at, had chutes fail to open and been hit by a train, and I'm still alive and going to get this thing done.
 
As a contractor I would be very afraid to use the creosoted poles...personally I'm not a bit afraid of it. However liability is an issue. if the epa got wind of it that there were creosoted logs there they'd condemn that bad boy like it was made out of the reactor lid from Chernobyl. I'd hate to be enjoying my retirement when some cookie counter comes and informs me that I had to fix it....free.
 
As a contractor I would be very afraid to use the creosoted poles...personally I'm not a bit afraid of it. However liability is an issue. if the epa got wind of it that there were creosoted logs there they'd condemn that bad boy like it was made out of the reactor lid from Chernobyl. I'd hate to be enjoying my retirement when some cookie counter comes and informs me that I had to fix it....free.

Fix it free....hell we're doing that now. When we get the outer parts of the poles off they won't be able to tell that there ever was any creosote.
 
IMO, the first HUGE mistake was that you moved the entire home as a whole.

You should have numbered all the logs and dis-assembled it.

At the time you would have re-stacked it should have been the time to replace any rotted logs.

Looking at your pics, it looks as though you will need to replace the header log, half way up the wall and above the door. I'm not sure how you will lift it into place without having a boom lift. The foundation for the older section will get in the way to balance with a forklift. In that case you might be forced to break that log up, kind of a shame.

The roof needs to be taken off, and the house dis-assemble after numbering and documenting as much as you can with pictures.

I would clean each log and figure out where the rotted ones are and exactly what needs to be replaced, including all the joists. I would put all new blocking between the logs and use modern chinking. You need to clean all the old crap out of the space, and use some sort of backing rod, and even foam board from Home Depot will work fine. But before you do that each round of logs needs to be leveled out and solidly blocked, before you can chink it. I hope your not trying to keep those singles and other crap that is crammed in the space...

I see what you mean about the older structure now. Are you planning to add that section back on ? You have the foundation for it. What's your plan on that? Creosote for that portion also?

There are many places to get logs, in many cases you can get them for free. But even if you had to buy logs, you only need a few. Your going to find out quickly though, moving logs is not like moving 2x4s. The only way to make that right is to take it apart and re-stack it. Anything short of that is just bubble gumming it together. That one corner is sure fugly...there's a fair amount of work on that one corner if you want to make it "safe". Anything short of dis-assembling and re-assembling will be a crappy job. My $0.02 which is worth what you are paying for it.

You said you replaced 10 logs and know what your doing. Certainly you jest...


Just because he's not doing it the way you would doesn't make it wrong. Why not try to infuse a little positive attitude? Just for a change.
 
TT: The reason that we moved it as a whole is that the property owner gave us a VERY short time period to clear the lot. We tore off one addition and took apart the original cabin (where the void's are on the new foundation area, (which as of Memorial Day has a new floor) and numbered the logs. We are going to replace them as we go up the wall where we are planing to use the cedar utility poles.

When we moved the cabin it was covered with 3 and in places 4 different types of siding, the last of which was steel. It was determined by the mover, who has moved more than a dozen log structures in the last 40 years that this would be the fastest and safest way to move it. When we got it on site almost all of the siding was removed, but the roof was left to protect from the rain. We have been drilling the corners and tying 3 and 4 logs together with rerod driven through the holes. Not original, but it is securing it pretty well.

The two of us doing the main work don't proclaim to be experts, out main claim to fame is that so far we haven't reduced it to a pile of Lincoln Logs. Time will tell.
 
I say keep going & learn & enjoy it. But do it safely. Green logs won't move that much, not like lumber does, and IMO isn't going to be a potential cabin destroyer. If nothing else, spend a little time searching backroads & old farms for other log structures such as barns & smoke houses & such. Salvage logs from them that are similar to what you need. Most of those old buildings are in ruins & the old farmers would likely be thrilled to contribute to the project if you pay them a little something and explain your intentions. I grew up in southern Ohio, in the Appalachians, and can think of half a dozen or so log structure ruins within 20 miles of the old family farm. Just takes some searching. Those old buildings aren't rare. They actually last way better than modern wood frame buildings. But stay away from the creosote if you can at any cost. Even if it doesn't hurt you, it may very well cause harm to anybody who visits that cabin in the future. A lawsuit will cost the historical society a whole lot more than that cabin is worth. It's a stretch to imagine it happening, but it only takes one.
 
Just because he's not doing it the way you would doesn't make it wrong. Why not try to infuse a little positive attitude? Just for a change.
Gologit,

I agree I was a bit harsh, and removed most of my posts last week. Creosote sent me over the edge, and for that I apologize for my comments, but still believe what I typed and would never condone such activity, I honestly don't care if someone believes cutting the outer section of the log off would be safe or not. It is not right to use those type of logs in a home where people would live.

TT: The reason that we moved it as a whole is that the property owner gave us a VERY short time period to clear the lot. We tore off one addition and took apart the original cabin (where the void's are on the new foundation area, (which as of Memorial Day has a new floor) and numbered the logs. We are going to replace them as we go up the wall where we are planing to use the cedar utility poles.

Unfortunately I'm a fair distance from you, but I would offer up 6 doug fir logs for FREE, if you could figure out a way to move them or pick them up, and you could use my sawmill to mill the sides off of them as well. But the downside is I'm about 2000 miles away from you. I would also ONLY give you the logs for FREE if you promised to not use any creosote logs in your work, what so ever.

When we moved the cabin it was covered with 3 and in places 4 different types of siding, the last of which was steel. It was determined by the mover, who has moved more than a dozen log structures in the last 40 years that this would be the fastest and safest way to move it.

I don't know about safest, but that is probably the fastest. Let us not forget that fastest is not always best.

You have created a real mess to fix.

I do apologize for my comments, and as such I offer you up some free doug fir logs, but ONLY if you would agree not to use creosote in your project. I made no comments about you using the Skippy "peanut butter" Elsworth method of pinning your logs together, nor did I about any of your other construction techniques in this project. My only negative comments were in regards to you using creosote, and I would NEVER condone such.

When we got it on site almost all of the siding was removed, but the roof was left to protect from the rain. We have been drilling the corners and tying 3 and 4 logs together with rerod driven through the holes. Not original, but it is securing it pretty well.

That is your choice, not how I would do it, and I have no comments on that type of work. Well, I do have comments but I'm going to refrain from offering them to you.

The two of us doing the main work don't proclaim to be experts, out main claim to fame is that so far we haven't reduced it to a pile of Lincoln Logs. Time will tell.

I wouldn't gloat about it just yet, and I certainly wouldn't gloat about using creosote in your work. ;)
 
Jra. What is the species and lengths of logs that you need. Post them and all of us around the area will keep our eyes open. If there is anything out at my friends 3000 acres I'm sure I can get it for you. Besides what is he doing right joe beside praying for rain and watching his beans wilt.
 
TT: You have many good points, and a huge thanks for the offer of logs. As of right now, we are stepping back a bit and trying to find poles that don't have any creosote, for a number of reasons. Again, we got this dumped in our laps a couple of years ago and have been playing catch up ever since. You say or at least imply that we don't know what we are doing. GUILTY!!, hell no we don't know what we are doing. We talk to a lot of carpenters and of course EVERYONE is a expert and gives advice. We just pick what sounds good and hope that it works. Trust me on this, we are NOT gloating, in fact hoping not to F***k it up is more like it. We do what we can in the time we have.

carr52, great offer. We have all kinds of wood available to us here, we just would rather put in logs that are dry and not going to warp. Might be wrong, but we think that the less stress put on this old cabin the better. JR
 
On monday we did our first cut. I used my jred 920, and it did a fine job, but it was WAY slower than I thought that it would be. Takes a while to go 21 feet. I'll post some pics later this week or next. JR
 
Glad to hear you are moving ahead on the project. I hated to see all the insults being thrown around. Guess that's normal for forums, but I don't think I'll ever get used to it. What are you using for chain? A ripping chain ground at about a 10-degree angle, or even straight across is faster and more aggressive. You can look up info on ripping chains on this forum, as well as WoodWeb and ForestryForum. Best of luck, and please do post photos!
 
Back
Top