Northern Tool Hydraulic Tanks

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PlankSpanker

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2010-12-26%2016.08.16.jpg
Pictured here is my splitter with oil leaking from a weld seam on my 3rd 10 Gallon tank purchased at Northern. I posted feedback on their site as well, but they probably won't post it. If you are building a splitter or looking for a new tank, DON'T buy this one. At least not unless you enjoy spending your weekends draining, removing, installing. cleaning etc. etc. It is Model # 4052.
 
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Thanks for the info. I find Northern Tool very "hit or miss", kind of like the Wal Mart of tools.

I agree, they seem to stock a lot of cheap Chinese stuff. On the other hand, I bought my Homelite 540 there around 1990. I think they were still known as Northern Hydraulic at the time.
 
I bought my tank from Surplus Center. At least it didn't leak.

I wish it had a baffle but it seems to work ok.

Don.
 
Bad oil tanks

And I thougt I was wasting my time making my own tank. Can you tell how thick the sheet steel is? Is the weld cracking or the metal right next to the weld?

Roy
 
A combination of poor steel and very bad welds. Each tank had some sort of anamoly that it would leak right out of the box. Very frustrating to say the least...
 
I have found that anytime you stop welding on a tank, it will leak in that spot. One pass around has proven suitable in most cases. One thing is, you will be surprised sometimes at where the leak actualy is. Oil seems to be able to travel from a bad weld in the seam to a corner or other spot where it can get out.
 
I got my 25 gal tank off ebay for 120 bucks and its worked perfect. No leaks , thick steel Ill have to find a link and get back to ya'll. I got a couple of hoses from northern, they blew apart the first time I used them. Not doin that twice.
 
Bad hoses?

I got my 25 gal tank off ebay for 120 bucks and its worked perfect. No leaks , thick steel Ill have to find a link and get back to ya'll. I got a couple of hoses from northern, they blew apart the first time I used them. Not doin that twice.

I bought hoses from Harbor Freight Tools as they were closing out their hydraulics parts. Is that a bad sign??

Roy
 
I have found that anytime you stop welding on a tank, it will leak in that spot. One pass around has proven suitable in most cases. One thing is, you will be surprised sometimes at where the leak actualy is. Oil seems to be able to travel from a bad weld in the seam to a corner or other spot where it can get out.


Depends how you weld. I was a ASME certified pressure vessel welder for some time.

You stop your welds thin and restart about a half inch back over where you stopped.

You are right in the respect it is better to make one solid weld. Sometimes though, it isn't possible.

The welds look like they welded then at a correct temp. However, there may have been alot of contamination in the weld area (machine oils, dirt, slag, ect.)
 
In fairness I should add that the most recent leak is coming from just above where the tank mounts to the frame. Seems to be a weak spot. Basically just a lug off the bottom of the tank near the center on two sides. Vibration from the engine just makes it worse. Not great engineering IMHO...
 
I've decided the best course of action is to have my neighbor "modify" the existing tank. Most of the trouble comes from the bottom seam where the mounting lugs are. We decided that a nice 1/4" steel plate to replace the existing bottom would work well. The mounting lugs would be part of the plate rather than just tacked on later. This would reduce stress on the bottom seams. All this is theoretical at this point, but I have great confidence in my neighbor as a fabricator as he has proven himself worthy many many times. maybe some pics to follow....
 
I've decided the best course of action is to have my neighbor "modify" the existing tank. Most of the trouble comes from the bottom seam where the mounting lugs are. We decided that a nice 1/4" steel plate to replace the existing bottom would work well. The mounting lugs would be part of the plate rather than just tacked on later. This would reduce stress on the bottom seams. All this is theoretical at this point, but I have great confidence in my neighbor as a fabricator as he has proven himself worthy many many times. maybe some pics to follow....



I'm about to start welding up my tank. After reading all this I I'm going to weld on full length mounts on two sides that reinforce the welded seams.

Thanks,

Roy
 
The seller on ebay ID is fallsfab seems to be a good guy thats where im getting my tank from
 
How do you have teh tank mounted?
The flimsy tabs should only be locating the tank, not carrying any loads. The vibration and loads will cause stress cracing on the tab welds quickly.
A full plate, or perimeter angle iron frame, or something that can take the load off the tabs helps. Ideally a full plate, then a rubber pad of say 1/4 or 1/2 inch thick chute lining or conveyor belting that the tank can sit on. The tabs just have to hold it in place from bouncing.

Also, bolts with rubber, or plastic nylock nuts, so the tabs are not metal to mietal tightened.

kcj
 
This hit or miss does not hold true about the name brand winches like superwinch or warn or ramsey winches they sell?


(sorry for the total thread derail and hijack)
 
IMAG0087.jpeg


This is the fix my neighbor came up with. Just a reweld of the bottom seam and then a gusset welded vertically on each side to minimize vibration and reduce stress on the seams. So far there is no leakage but I've yet to put it to the test for an extended length of time. I will also take Kevin's advice and put a piece of conveyer belting underneath as soon as I find out where I stashed it. :confused: Stay tuned...i
 
Here is a little Red Oak action today. No leaks I'm happy to report...[video=youtube;hhlIpVutSUo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhlIpVutSUo&feature=player_embedded[/video]
 

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