Not your typical "chain too tight" question

[sawfun]

The last Oregon bar I bought had slag on the rails. It was a 42" for a husky so one would think being one of their more expensive bars that they might take a stronger eye towards quality inspection. I just filed and cleaned it up myself.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Glad you got it all sorted out, I was thinking of you today. I was wondering if maybe the sprocket and chain were not a match ? like wrong packaging or something. good luck Jeff

 

[SawTroll]

If the tips wern't hammered too bad from the sprocket jump then you could take a couple strokes with a flat file to take the edge off the tip and bring it back down to size. No sense throwing a good chain away, or keep it for a backup... it all depends on how much the tips was mushed over and if it was every driver or not (I'd probably toss it if it was bad enough and every driver as it take a lof of time to fix'em)...

Good advice, I agree!

 

[Jeff Lary]

I don't know where you live, but if the drivers are too messed up for you to mess with, send me the chain and if I can fix it by filing it I will fix it for you. For free of course, I have patience for stuff like that, if it can be filed back into condition I will do it for free.

 

[lambs]

Once in a while I have a chain jump the sprockets and ding the drive links to the point that they will not go in the bar groove. I usually take care of that with my Dremel tool.

 

[Philbert]

. . . caused the chain to jump. Doing so then damaged the drive links by smushing . . . the tips of them . . . . A $6 part and another new chain l . . .

Burrs on the drive teeth are pretty common. Here is one of many threads on fixing them:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/junked-drive-links-replace-file-or-garbage.253336/

Philbert

 

[CTYank]

If the tips wern't hammered too bad from the sprocket jump then you could take a couple strokes with a flat file to take the edge off the tip and bring it back down to size. No sense throwing a good chain away, or keep it for a backup... it all depends on how much the tips was mushed over and if it was every driver or not (I'd probably toss it if it was bad enough and every driver as it take a lof of time to fix'em)...

Waste of valuable metal, IMO. Bury a single-bit axe into a big round, leaving the poll sticking up. That can now serve as an anvil. With that and a small machinist's hammer, you can easily peen down the raised areas. Always wear safety glasses.

This whole situation is reason for being of feeler gauges and micrometers.

 

[Marshy]

Waste of valuable metal, IMO. Bury a single-bit axe into a big round, leaving the poll sticking up. That can now serve as an anvil. With that and a small machinist's hammer, you can easily peen down the raised areas. Always wear safety glasses.

This whole situation is reason for being of feeler gauges and micrometers.

Good advice, I'll remember that for the future when the need arises. Still might need a few quick strokes with a flat file if there's a small burr. A good smack with the hammer should get you close, just make sure it's on a flat surface. You'll have additional problems if you bend them just a little...

 

[Philbert]

With that and a small machinist's hammer, you can easily peen down the raised areas. Always wear safety glasses.

A good smack with the hammer should get you close, just make sure it's on a flat surface. You'll have additional problems if you bend them just a little...

If you peen the drive links flat, you will probably change the shape of the drive links, causing extra wear on the sprockets. Might be OK as a 'field expedient' method (i.e. - limited choices).

Philbert

 

[Jeff Lary]

yea Dremel is what i was going to do should work no problem . Should'nt take more than 20 min tops.